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Thread: The ultimate deficiency thread

  1. #11

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    Manganese Deficiency

    Problem: Leaves may become yellow in between the veins, with mottled brown spots on the affected leaves. These brown dead patches may spread and eventually kill the leaf. Leaves may also shred and fall apart.

    Overall growth of the marijuana plant may be stunted. With a manganese deficiency, the yellowing will begin at the base of the leave and move outwards towards the tips.
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    Solution for Manganese Deficiency in Cannabis

    Your plant may also exhibit signs of a manganese deficiency if the pH is too high, or if the plant is getting too much iron.


    Please note: After a manganese deficiency is cleared up, the problem (brown spots and yellowing leaves) will stop spreading to other growth usually within a week. Please note that leaves which have been damaged by a manganese deficiency will probably not recover or turn green, so you want to pay attention to other growth for signs of recovery.

    In soil, calcium is best absorbed by the roots in the 6.0 - 7.0 pH range (some growers recommend keeping the pH slightly lower, from 6.0 - 6.5, if you suspect a manganese deficiency in particular)
    *
    In hydro, calcium is best absorbed by the roots in the 5.5 - 5.8 pH range (in hydro, it's generally recommended to keep the pH between 5.5 - 6.5, but manganese specifically tends to be best absorbed below 5.8)
    If you suspect your growing cannabis plant has a manganese deficiency, flush your system with clean, pH'd water that contains a regular dose of cannabis-friendly nutrients that includes manganese. This will remove any extra iron or nutrient salts that may be affected the uptake of manganese, it will help restore pH to the proper levels, and will supply the plant with any missing nutrients.

    You are looking to avoid higher pH ranges, as this is where manganese deficiencies are most likely to occur.


    Leaf Color:*
    Pale Color Leaves
    Yellow Leaves - New Growth
    Yellow Leaves - Lower, older leaves
    Yellowing Between Veins
    Veins of Leaves Stay Green
    Brown or Dark Spots
    Mottling / Mosaic Pattern
    Leaf Symptoms:*
    Upper Leaves / Newer Growth Affected
    Lower Leaves / Older Growth Affected
    Yellowing Between Veins
    Veins of Leaves Stay Green
    Spots
    Mottling / Mosaic
    Slow Growth
    Abnormal Growth
    Plant Symptoms:*
    Slow Growth.

    Cont.

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  3. #12

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    Nitrogen Deficiency

    Problem:* A cannabis nitrogen deficiency will cause the older, lower leaves on your plant to turn yellow, wilt away and eventually die.

    The yellow leaves of a nitrogen deficiency may show signs of brown, and they will usually become soft and sort of "fold" in, before turning crispy and falling off on their own.


    If the yellowing leaves are at the*top of your plant*or the yellow leaves are mosty*new growth, then you probably*don't*have a nitrogen deficiency. Nitrogen deficiencies always affect the oldest, lowest leaves first.

    Nitrogen is a mobile nutrient, which means it can move throughout the plant as needed.*Cannabis needs nitrogen to keep leaves green and make energy from light. All new leaves get plenty of nitrogen to make them green and help with photosynthesis.*The leaves that get the most light are the newest, youngest leaves, so the plant "wants" to give those leaves priority for getting light.


    If new leaves aren't getting enough nitrogen, the plant will start to "steal" nitrogen from the older, lower leaves, so that it can give it to newer leaves. This is what causes the yellowing and wilting of a nitrogen deficiency.



    It's relatively normal for your cannabis plant's leaves to start turning yellow towards the end of your flowering cycle as the plant becomes nitrogen deficient while creating buds.

    However, if your cannabis plant is losing lower leaves fast due to yellowing (if yellowing and dying leaves is "climbing" up the plant from the bottom), especially in the vegetative stage before plant is making buds, you have a problem that you will need to fix as soon as possible.

    You don't want a nitrogen deficiency in the vegetative stage!


    If you notice your lower cannabis leaves turning yellow in the vegetative stage or in the beginning part of the flowering stage, your plant may be experiencing a nitrogen deficiency which will need to be treated.

    It is not good if your cannabis plant is showing signs of an advanced nitrogen deificiency while still in the vegetative stage. It's normal to lose a few yellow leaves off the bottom of your plant here and there, especially with very big plants. But if you are losing a significant amount of yellow leaves, and the yellowing seems to be moving up the plant quickly, then you have a problem.



    The first cannabis plant pictured below*is showing signs of nitrogen deficiency late in flowering; nitrogen deficiency in late flowering*is completely normal and even desired. The last picture is an infographic about nitrogen and your marijuana plant.


    It's normal for plants to show signs of a nitrogen deficiency as the plant gets close to harvest. This is actually a good thing! Too much nitrogen can actually prevent proper budding, and can reduce the overall taste and smell of your plant. This is why all "bloom" and flowering nutrient formulas are relatively low in nitrogen.

    So don't sweat it if you see your*cannabis*show some signs of*nitrogen deficiency late in the*flowering stage! Relatively low levels of nitrogen in the late flowering stage helps promote proper cannabis bud development and will increase your yields!

    Don't worry about yellow leaves close to harvest!



    Solution: You can find many pre-mixed nutrients from the store which contain nitrogen or you could use nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer which are both good sources of nitrogen. In fact almost all plant nutrients of any kind will include nitrogen. If you haven't been providing any nutrient to your plants, try supplementing your regular nutrients with a bit more nitrogen and see if the plant starts recovering.

    If you've already*been using nutrients, then you probably don't have a nitrogen deficiency. If you're seeing the signs of spreading nitrogen deficiency even a week or two giving nitrogen to your plants through nutrients, then you need to figure out what else is causing the yellowing so you can stop it.

    More About Nitrogen and Your Marijuana Plants

    Sometimes you can get the signs of a cannabis nitrogen deficiency if the pH at the plant root zone is too low, even if the nitrogen is there. This is because when the pH at the roots is not right, your plant roots can't properly absorb nutrients. If you aren't sure about your root pH, learn more about pH & growing cannabis plants here.

    Nitrogen is especially important during the vegetative stage of your cannabis plants. As your plants start flowering, they will need lower amounts of nitrogen.

    Nitrogen is one of the 3 nutrients that is included in almost every kind of plant food.

    When looking at plant nutrients, you'll almost always see 3 numbers listed, like 3-12-6 or 5-10-5. These numbers represent the percentage of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K) contained in the bottle. Just about all plant life on Earth needs these 3 elements to grow.

    The very first number,*"3" in the case of the picture to the right, always displays the proportion of nitrogen in this nutrient bottle compared to the other 2 nutrients (Phosphorus and Potassium respectively).

    The reason nitrogen is in all plant nutrient formulations is because it's vital to plant processes.*

    Note: During the last few weeks before harvest, marijuana plants starts pulling all the remaining nitrogen from her leaves as part of the bud-making process. This causes yellowing leaves starting towards the bottom of the plant. This is part of the natural flowering process and you don't need to fight it.You may notice that marijuana leaves are yellowing in almost all pictures of marijuana plants with big buds that are close to harvest. You tend to get smaller yields from nitrogen-toxic plants with dark green leaves at harvest.

    Remember: It's Normal For Marijuana Leaves To Start Turning Yellow As Harvest Time



    Leaf Color:*
    Pale Color Leaves
    Yellow Leaves - Lower, older leaves
    Yellowing Between Veins
    Leaf Symptoms:*
    Lower Leaves / Older Growth Affected
    Yellowing Between Veins
    Old Leaves Dropping Off
    Wilting / Drooping
    Plant Symptoms:*
    Old Leaves Dropping Off.

    Cont.
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    Last edited by MrG; 24-10-14 at 12:30 PM.

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  5. #13

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    More nitrogen deficiency pics.
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    Cont.

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  7. #14

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    Nitrogen Toxicity

    Problem: Dark green leaves, weak stems, and overall slow growth. Marijuana leaves that are nitrogen toxic often get "The Claw" or talon-like leaves that are bent at the ends. The also do a weird curving / cupping that is often mistaken for overwatering, but is unique to nitrogen toxicity. You can this leaf "clawing" pictured to the right and below (click each picture for a close-up).

    Leaves that turn into claws often start turning yellow and dying if the nitogen toxicity is not treated, much like a nitrogen deficiency, only the leaves will continue to get more and more clawed. Leaves eventually turn yellow or brown and fall off. You can tell if yellowing is caused by too much nitrogen because the rest of the plant will be dark green, and the yellowing leaves will turn into claws first.

    Different strains react differently to nitrogen toxicity. Some plants get dark green leaves with no clawing. Some strains will get leaves that do the weird 90 degree bend at the tips, while other strains or individual plants start curling like claws and then turn yellow / brown and fall off like a deficiency. Yet these are all signs of too much nitrogen.
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    Cont.

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  9. #15

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    Nitrogen Deficiency

    Problem: Dark green leaves, weak stems, and overall slow growth. Marijuana leaves that are nitrogen toxic often get "The Claw" or talon-like leaves that are bent at the ends. The also do a weird curving / cupping that is often mistaken for overwatering, but is unique to nitrogen toxicity. You can this leaf "clawing" pictured to the right and below.

    Leaves that turn into claws often start turning yellow and dying if the nitogen toxicity is not treated, much like a nitrogen deficiency, only the leaves will continue to get more and more clawed. Leaves eventually turn yellow or brown and fall off. You can tell if yellowing is caused by too much nitrogen because the rest of the plant will be dark green, and the yellowing leaves will turn into claws first.

    Different strains react differently to nitrogen toxicity. Some plants get dark green leaves with no clawing. Some strains will get leaves that do the weird 90 degree bend at the tips, while other strains or individual plants start curling like claws and then turn yellow / brown and fall off like a deficiency. Yet these are all signs of too much nitrogen.

    Signs of Nitrogen Toxicity

    Dark green leaves and foliage
    Leaf tips may turn down, without signs of overwatering.
    You may notice yellowing on the affected leaves or other signs of nutrient deficiencies as time goes on
    Nitrogen toxicity is often but not always accompanied by nutrient burn
    The Claw often seems random, affecting leaves here and there
    Heat and pH problems will make the clawing worse, as they stress out the plant and lower her defenses
    As time goes on, the claw leaves will eventually start turning yellow, getting spots, and dying.
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  11. #16

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    Nitrogen Deficiency

    Solution:*Reduce the Nitrogen your plant is getting!

    Reduce the amount of nitrogen that is being fed to the plants. If you are feeding extra nutrients, cut down. If you are in the flowering / budding stage, make sure you're using a formula that's specifically meant for flowering, or else it will have too much nitrogen.

    If you are not feeding extra nutrients, you may have "hot" soil that has been supplementing with extra nutrients. In that case, flush your plants with filtered, pH'ed water to help leech out the extra nitrogen.

    Effected leaves likely won't recover, but you should stop seeing the problem spread to more parts of the plant.

    *

    Wait! I'm not sure if it's a Nitrogen toxicity!

    Ok, you ruled out overwatering, now what?

    When I first got started growing, everyone kept telling me that this particular kind of leaf clawing was caused by under or overwatering my plants, pH problems, or heat problems.*

    Yet in my case, I knew that it wasn't over or under watering (I was growing in hydro, where roots grow directly in water and air stones are constantly adding oxygen). I knew it wasn't pH (my reservoir water had the right pH) and I knew it wasn't heat since the grow area was slightly cooler than room temperature.*

    So then what was really causing my claw leaves?

    It's understandable that other growers were mistaken. It is true that many stresses will make any other problem worse.*

    Plus overwatering can cause a similar kind of leaf clawing (learn more below). And if you do have nitrogen toxicity, than heat or pH problems will make the problem much worse as your plant is too weak to fight back.

    Now, you may or may not know that marijuana (or any plant) needs an element known as "Nitrogen" to grow.*

    In fact, nitrogen is one of the 3 nutrients that is included in almost every kind of plant food.

    When looking at plant nutrients, you'll almost always see 3 numbers listed, like 3-12-6 or 5-10-5. These numbers represent the percentage of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K) contained in the bottle. Just about all plant life on Earth needs these 3 elements to grow.



    The very first number,*"3" in the case of the picture to the right, always displays the proportion of nitrogen in this nutrient bottle compared to the other 2 nutrients (Phosphorus and Potassium respectively).

    The reason nitrogen is in all plant nutrient formulations is because it's vital to plant processes.*

    For marijuana plants, when they don't get enough nitrogen, the bottom leaves start turning yellow and dying. Left unchecked, a*nitrogen deficiency*can cause the the whole plant to eventually die.*

    What I'm here to talk to you about today is the opposite,*nitrogen toxicity, or too much nitrogen.

    Why You Should Treat And Prevent Nitrogen Toxicity

    Marijuana plants that get too much Nitrogen in the vegetative stage don't grow as vigorously.
    Too much nitrogen is especially harmful in the flowering stage, because this will cause your plant to produce smaller buds.*
    If you react quickly and reduce your nitrogen levels at the first sign of toxicity, your plant will quickly recover.
    Note: Some strains with the word "Claw" in the name tend to do The Claw more easily than others.

    Problems with excess nitrogen are not common in the wild, it's a lot more common to see nitrogen toxicity on indoor plants, especially when overzealous growers go overboard with nutrients.*

    Occasionally you'll come across a strain or particular plant that likes lower levels of nutrients, and when this happens, it's important to realize the plant is showing signs of toxicity, even if all the other plants in your garden seem fine.

    One of the most common signs off too-many-nutrients is "nutrient burn," or when the tips of your leaf appear brown or burned. Yet there are specific signals your plant will display when she's getting too much nitrogen...

    How You Know You Have a Nitrogen Toxicity

    Dark green leaves and foliage
    Leaf tips turn down, without signs of overwatering.
    You may notice yellowing on the affected leaves or other signs of nutrient deficiencies as time goes on
    Nitrogen toxicity is often but not always accompanied by nutrient burn
    The Claw often seems random, affecting leaves here and there
    Heat and pH problems will make the clawing worse, as they stress out the plant and lower her defenses
    As time goes on, the claw leaves will eventually start turning yellow, getting spots, and dying
    Light and The Claw
    The distance between the leaves to the lights or irregular light patterns from reflectors often seem to affect the condition, which is why many growers believe that light is somehow causing the problem.
    *
    You may notice this clawing first appears on dark green leaves that aren't getting enough light (they aren't able to use up all their nitrogen and become nitrogen toxic).
    The Claw in the Flowering Stage
    If you use vegetative plant nutrients during the flowering stage, then they'll deliver too much nitrogen. This is why you need to get special nutrients meant for the blooming / flowering stage. You'll notice that flowering nutrients always contain a smaller percentage of nitrogen *(the first number) compared to nutrients for the vegetative stage.
    *
    Many growers mistakenly keep raising nutrient levels or adding additional nitrogen when they see yellow leaves in the flowering stage, not realizing that it's natural for plant leaves to start yellowing as harvest approaches. Adding too much nitrogen in the flowering stage can cause nitrogen toxicity even when you can see yellow lower leaves
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    Note: During the last few weeks before harvest, marijuana plants starts pulling all the remaining nitrogen from her leaves as part of the bud-making process. This causes yellowing leaves starting towards the bottom of the plant. This is part of the natural flowering process and you don't need to fight it.You may notice that marijuana leaves are yellowing in almost all pictures of marijuana plants with big buds that are close to harvest. You tend to get smaller yields from nitrogen-toxic plants with dark green leaves at harvest.

    It's Normal For Marijuana Leaves To Start Turning Yellow As Harvest Time Approaches, Don't Keep Adding More Nitrogen!
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    I know a lot of marijuana plant problems can look similar, but now that you're armed with the right information, you'll know exactly what to do if you see Nitrogen Toxicity*affecting your marijuana plants.

    *

    Leaf Color:*
    Edges Appear Brown or Burnt
    Yellow Leaves - Lower, older leaves
    Dark or Purple Leaves
    Brown or Dark Spots
    Leaf Symptoms:*
    Upper Leaves / Newer Growth Affected
    Lower Leaves / Older Growth Affected
    All Leaves Seem Affected
    Leaf Edges Appear Burnt
    Leaf Tips Appear Burnt
    Spots
    Leaves Curl Under
    Wilting / Drooping
    Plant Symptoms:*
    Weak Stems
    Leaves Curl Under
    Plant Wilting / Drooping
    Other Symptoms:*
    Buds Not Fattening

    Cont.

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  13. #17

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    Nutrient Burn

    Is it Nutrient Burn?
    Also commonly known as cannabis "Nute Burn"

    Quick Summary: Nutrient burn is one of the most common beginner cannabis growing problems, and is a result of the roots taking in more nutrients than a cannabis plant can use.

    This excess level of nutrients causes a brown or yellow "burn" along the tips of your leaves. If nutrient levels are not lowered, the burnt tips start traveling inwards and tend to get crispy and twisted.
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    Nutrient burn is most common when feeding cannabis too-high levels of bottled nutrients and especially chemical nutrients (for example - hydroponic setups often use chemical nutrients that are easily available to plant roots because they increase potency and yields, but these nutrients are so accessible to the plant roots that they can cause nutrient burn if the grower adds too much).

    Nutrient burn can also happen when plants or seedlings are grown directly in soil that has a high level of nutrients (a "hot" soil or growing medium) such as fresh compost, manure or a nutrient-amended soil mix. This usually happens to young seedlings, and they will "grow out of it" as they begin to use up all the nutrients in the soil, as long as more nutrients are not added.

    Cont.

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  15. #18

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    Nutrient Burn

    Problem: You will notice the tips of your leaves showing the first signs of nutrient burn by turning yellow, tan, gold or brown. A light case of nutrient burn will only affect the tips of your leaves.

    The yellow tips will eventually turn rusty brown and crispy. If you do not correct the problem, you may also notice the burn slowly spreading from the tips to the whole leaf. At this point, if you haven't done so already, you should immediately treat your plant (directions below) before there's more damage.
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    Nutrient burn can also manifest itself as brown or bronze spotting around the edges of the leaf serrations (often when there's an problem with proper absorption of potassium), or with leaf tips curling downwards (tips pointing down is often associated with too much nitrogen).

    Nutrient burn can cause burnt spots on the serrated edges - not just the tips
    (often caused by the plant absorbing too much potassium)
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    No matter which kind of nute burn you have, the solution remains the same (full instructions below)

    Why Growers Should Care About Stopping Nutrient Burn

    I have heard some growers say that a little nutrient burn is actually a good thing, because it means that you are giving your plant the highest level of nutrients it can use. A lot of growers have the mistaken idea that nutrients are somehow "food" for your cannabis plants, and so more food = more energy = bigger yields.

    This is wrong, instead nutrients are more like a multi-vitamin for your plant. Just like you can't give a child 10 multivitamins a day to make them grow faster, you can't give your plants 10x the regular does of nutrients and exact anything good to happen.

    The real "food" for your plant is light. Your plant produces energy from light through a process known as photosynthesis, which is most effective when the plant has healthy green leaves.

    Your leaves are like solar panels, and the energy produced by the leaves is used as energy for the whole plant. You need the leaves to be in tip-top shape to get the most energy from the lights, so your plant has plenty of energy to grow and produce buds.

    Therefore, the biggest problem with nutrient burn is the fact that you are losing leaf mass and overall leaf robustness on your cannabis plant.

    A little nute burn won't slow down your plants much, if at all, but if nute burn is left out of control, you will begin to lose serious leaf mass and it will dramatically slow down plant growth and reduce your overall yields.

    What's worse, if excess nutrients are not flushed out of the plant's system before harvest, the buds may contain trace amounts of extra nutrients, giving the buds an unpleasant chemical-like taste. Speaking of the flowering stage...


    Nutrient Burn is More Serious in the Flowering Stage

    Cannabis plants spend the beginning part of their life in the vegetative stage. When cannabis plants enter the second part of their life, the flowering stage, they stop focusing on making leaves and stems, and put all their focus on making buds/flowers.

    The flowering stage is the most vulnerable stage for cannabis plants, because they don't have much ability to bounce back from any problems.

    The further you get into the flowering stage (and the closer you get the harvest), the less likely the plant will replace a leaf that is damaged or dies. By the time harvest is around the corner, your plant basically stops making any effort to recover from leaf damage, and it's complete focus is on fattening buds.

    That's why budding cannabis plants need extra care to thrive - in the flowering stage, a little bit of nutrient burn will probably be okay, but too much nutrient burn can seriously hurt yields because the plant will not be able to recover. If you are adding nutrients to your water, it can be very easy to burn your plants in the flowering stage (even with nutrient levels it was fine with before) as different strains have different needs throughout budding.
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    Extreme Case of Nutrient Burn
    (if you give your plants way too much nutrients at once, this can literally happen overnight)
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    These plants were planted in "hot" Miracle-Gro soil (avoid using Miracle-Gro products for growing cannabis!), then given high levels of bottled nutrients - resulting in one of the worst cases of nutrient burn I've ever seen on a cannabis plant. While the plant itself may eventually recover with time, these leaves will never recover.
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    Cont.

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  17. #19

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    Nutrient Burn

    Solution For Nute Burn

    If you are using bottled nutrients - Most people who get nute burn are feeding their plants extra nutrients in the water. First off, make sure you are using a quality set of nutrients that has been specifically designed for cannabis plants. Any nutrient system designed for plants like a tomato will also work in a pinch. Also make sure you are feeding nutrients for the right growth stage - for example, all cannabis nutrient systems have you feed different nutrients for the vegetative and flowering stage. If you are feeding the wrong type of nutrients for the stage your plant is in, that is an easy way to give your plants lots of nutrient problems including nutrient burn.

    If you are using the wrong type of nutrients for a plant like cannabis, you will eventually run into nutrient problems, one way or another.

    Many nutrient systems come with instructions to feed your plant more nutrients than most plants actually need. It's good business for the nutrient companies if you use more nutrients. However, in my experience it's a good idea to view the feeding charts that come with any nutrient system as the maximum amount of nutrients and actually start with much lower levels. I tend to start with half the recommended amount, and slowly work my way up only if needed.

    Hand-watered system - If you are growing in a handwatered system (like in soil or coco coir), flush your system with plain, pH'ed water if you notice the first signs of nutrient burn. (Learn about pH). If you are not adding any extra nutrients in your grow, then you simply need to wait until the plant uses all the excess nutrients in the soil - after the nutes have been used up, the plant will naturally get over the nute burn (old leaves won't recover, but leaves should no longer be getting new brown or burnt tips).

    Hydro system - Reduce the overall levels of nutrients in your water reservoir by either adding plain pH'ed water to dilute the water, or you could also mix up a new set of nutrients (at lower levels) and completely change the water.

    Be careful not to make big changes too fast, it's better to go relatively slowly in hydro.

    In hydro, once you change the water and lower the nutrient levels to an appropriate level, you should immediately notice the nutrient burn stop spreading. Old leaves won't recover, but you shouldn't notice any leaves getting worse.

    If you don't have a TDS meter to measure the levels of nutrients (and other extra stuff) in your water, I would normally start your plants with a fraction (perhaps 1/2) of the nutrients you were giving them before - and then work your way up to higher nutrient levels only if you notice the lower leaves are starting to yellow too quickly (nitrogen deficiency). Even then, try to move up nutrient levels as slowly as you can. If you lose leaves to a nitrogen deficiency from slightly too-low nutrient levels, you will lose a few of the least important lower leaves. But if you raise nutrient levels to fast and get nutrient burn, all the leaves on the whole plant will be affected and never recover fully.

    One of the things that can be frustrating about hydro is that different plants or strains will be okay with different amounts of nutrients. You can be giving 2 plants the exact same levels of nutrients, and one might get nutrient burn while the other plant is getting a deficiency at the same level. This is because different plants absorb the nutrients at different rates.

    Plus, plants drink more or less water depending on the temperature and humidity of your grow area, so even if you're familiar with the nutrient levels of a particular strain, it can be hard to keep track of the exact right nutrient levels until you get familiar with your setup, unless...

    Luckily, there is an awesome tool to make this much easier in hydro.

    In hydro, it is very helpful to get a tool called a TDS meter to help you regulate the amount of nutrients in your water. A TDS meter will be able to tell you how much "stuff" is in the water, and whether the levels of nutrients are getting higher or lower each time you check. You can test your reservoir at any time to see if the levels of nutrients are rising, so you'll be able to stop nutrient burn before it even affects your plants.

    Leaf Color:*
    Edges Appear Brown or Burnt
    Dark or Purple Leaves
    Black or Gray Patches on Leaves
    Brown or Dark Spots
    Leaf Symptoms:*
    Upper Leaves / Newer Growth Affected
    Lower Leaves / Older Growth Affected
    All Leaves Seem Affected
    Leaf Edges Appear Burnt
    Leaf Tips Appear Burnt
    Leaf Tips Die
    Spots
    Slow Growth
    Twisted Growth
    Leaves Curl Under
    Plant Symptoms:*
    Weak Stems
    Slow Growth
    Twisted Growth
    Leaves Curl Under
    Other Symptoms:*
    Buds Not Fattening.

    Cont.

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  19. #20

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    Could your cannabis also be suffering from Nitrogen Toxicity? -

    Nitrogen toxicity is common on cannabis plants with nutrient burn

    Are the ends of leaves curling like a claw or pointing down like talons? If your plant is experiencing "the claw" and not just normal drooping like from underwatering or overwatering, then you may have a*nitrogen toxicity*(too much nitrogen).*

    These Plants Are NOT Overwaterd, These Leaves Show Signs of*Nitrogen Toxicity

    Learn more: Nitrogen Toxicity
    ("The Claw", tips bent down, curling / clawing, dark green leaves)

    Nitrogen toxicity is relatively common with plants experiencing nutrient burn.

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    Sometimes Mistaken for Nutrient Burn

    Magnesium deficiency
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    pH Fluctuations
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    *

    Potassium deficiency
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