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Thread: Waterfarm reservoir recirculating Mod

  1. #11

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    This is a speaker port added as a passthrough for the standing water column, but didn't add it to this thread after i later added it to my own WFs.. The biggest drawback with the first mod that started this thread, was that you couldn't lift your girls skirt to check out her roots, not and keep your hydroton balls in place at the same time...
    I found the solution here... . http://www.parts-express.com/speaker...lared--260-472 ... It needs to be shortened about 3/4-1".... The standing water column is a perfect fit inside this tapered cone.
    No glue or sealant is used to keep the cone in place... Now the top bucket can be pulled out and the hydroton stays in the top bucket..
    Bought this drill at HF 7.00, to drill the exact hole size for ridges on the cone..It snaps in place like it was made for it....
    I used the same hole location that GH put in the top bucket to drill the hole bigger... I contact glued a round abs patch over the hole on the inside of the bucket... It wouldn't take the pressure when drilling the centering hole from the outside and peeled off.. So i inverted the bucket over a 4"x 4" x12" pc of wood to support the patch while drilling ...
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  3. #12

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    Here's a couple pics of the modified waterfarm at work in my thread on 420... one SS-315 watt lec light on each plant.. Blackberry pic,#1 finished 12 oz, Blue Mystic, this one really stretched a lot, more than i thought it would... I used teflon tape attached to the wall to hold it up...16oz..
    Last edited by Fredo; 24-09-18 at 06:18 PM.

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  5. #13

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    The pics didn't post.. took more that eight minutes to edit.. got chopped off.
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  7. #14

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    Her's what that filter looked after about 5-6 grows.. My driprings stopped clogging after adding it..
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  9. #15

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    This is 2 igloos, one as a reservoir, the other as the grow igloo.. My first attempt to keep water temps down.. It worked well, but was a pia to change the frozen bottles twice a day... It was an 18"x24" scrog screen.. 27 day veg from clone,, 100 days flower..
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  11. #16

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    I got a 6 oz yield.. I always get 2 oz, or a little more per sq. foot of scrog screen.. My grows are always about 130 days start to finish.. Forgot to post the air pump with filter..
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  13. #17

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    I have really hot summers where I live.. I've included a pic to give you an idea of how hot it can get on a July afternoon.. This next grow my be a bit optimistic about how little power one can use to cool the grow.... I have a 1/10 hp chiller that I use on my modified Waterfarms.. This will be a proof of concept grow.. You'll notice the ice chest has two lids, so I can fall back on frozen water bottles if need be...
    Will be running 2 Waterloos with an Ice probe to cool the igloos.. The blue tape on the probe was to keep the threads clean because it was set in urethane spray foam to bed the unit firmly in place… It'll be like my Waterloo grow.. In the summer I have another trick to improve the temp drop of the probe. There's an uninsulated wall between the ice chest and a swamp cooler I use in the summer... Come summer, I plan on piping the colder air, through the wall, directly to the heat sink of the probe.. I bought an Ink Bird temp controller instead of the one sold by Ice Probe... The Ink Bird has a wider set temp range.. It can control heating or cooling.. This will be a from seed grow.. Once the seed has 3/4-1" root, it will go into the hydroton.. There will also be the close in reflectors like in the igloo grow, with a 315 watt cmh over each plant... .. The scrog screens will be 32"x24" to take advantage of the advertised best footprint of my 315 watt cmh lights. So far my best yield with the 315 cmh was 1.33 gpw… I think 1.5 gpw is not out of reach for this type of light..
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  15. #18

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    A few more pics..
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  18. #20

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    `The black abs 1-3/4" washers you see on the outside of the reservoir serve two purposes.. First to spread the force on the rather thin skin found on most ice chests and the Igloos ... Second is as spacers to compensate for the not perfect length fit of the 2-1/2" and 6" cut off sprinkler risers I use..This works because there are no rubber washers on the outside of the ice chest.. I use Teflon tape where it's needed. The washers I prefer on the inside are the o-ring type hose washers..
    I'll post the allowed 5 pics and try and cover as many of the details as I can.. I bought the 13/16" deep hole drill off Amazon, 6-7$, It was needed to get a clean, straight hole through the ice chest and igloo insulation... It also works for the center hole in the washer/spacer.. [A 13/16 spade drill will work for buckets when drilling holes for 1/2" grommets.] The old 1-3/4" hole drill I had on hand.. I also had 1/4" and 1/8" abs sheet on hand from other projects. Plastic washers for the outside of an igloos, I cut from the sides of 5 gal buckets.. Almost all the parts I use, or adapt, are bought off the shelf from HD..
    Please bear with me as I go through this again, The pvc standing water column connected to the reservoir is what makes this setup work.. The water in the grow igloo, and the reservoir, and the water column are all the same level.. The top of the water column is 6-7 inches higher than the water level..The drip ring will remove 5-6 gal an hour from the water column, which is then replaced from the reservoir... With the dripring adding 5-6 gal an hour to the grow Igloo, gravity will return the water, at the same rate, to the reservoir near the Ice Probe.. We'll call this my Waterloo..
    When drilling the plastic washers/spacers, I drill the pilot with 13/16" drill, but not the hole itself.. That holes then serves as the start hole for the 1-3/4 hole drill.. I drill out the 13/16 hole while holding the 1-1/2" plastic in a $2.99 clamp from HF.....
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