What is this!!!

**Pureresin** · 15-05-17, 04:19 PM

I am currently 5days into flower so didn't want to stress them anymore. Just started seeing the white hairs so it's on track I hope

**Ironman** · 15-05-17, 06:02 PM

Originally Posted by Pureresin

I actually don't ph I just thought I would try as people seem really keen on doing it, I have put no chemicals in the soil as I didn't adjust the ph just wanted to see what my water was going in and after adding nutrients. I went with soil so I didn't have to ph so I will keep on without messing with it. All I was concerned about was the rusty spots and upwards dry claw but I now no its only on old growth not the new. I have a pk booster but may only use it on the plants that don't show a deficiency? Would you agree?

Great mate, keep it as organic as you can and all the microherds within the soil and the macroherds in the nutes will buffer the PH and keep it in the right place to uptake all the NPK and other nutes it needs.

As long as you have a good amount of run off on each watering/feed and the plant doesn't stand in it your soil will stay in good condition for flowering.

You only need to adjust the PH if your using chemical nutrients, if your buying nutes for soil the the majority are organic. I recommend old timers grow and bloom.😉

I did see that a few had said it looks l8ke a cal def that didn't get sorted and now it's backed up a bit. While I do agree with that, I think that as long as the new growth is perfect and I mean perfect, you should be good. If there is any type of deformity to the new grow them I would flush them.

My reasoning is that you will always get a build up of shit in the soil and that locks out the uptake of other essential nutrients and benificiaries.

E.g., to much N may stop the uptake of cal or mag or boron. So you think you have a cal issue when actually it's some thing else.

Some people always flush their soil between veg and flower so you can put exactly what you need for flowering. I'm seriously considering this in future grows.

It's a bit of peace of mind when you flush because you know you cleaning the soil and you can then add P and K, there should be plenty of N already by now😉

As I say if you need the guide for flushing let me know I've got it saved on my phone😉

I had similar purple ish rust spots on a previous grow, I'm pretty sure it was because I over done it on the grow nutes and it locked out the cal. A flush set me right. The damaged leaves didn't get better but all future growth, leaves and buds were perfect.😉

Hope this helps, good luck😎

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**Pureresin** · 15-05-17, 06:49 PM

I would be interested in the flush guide if you don't mind just incase all knowledge is power

**Ironman** · 15-05-17, 06:53 PM

This is a post I created the other week.

[quote name="Bud-e" post=1070585654]Howdy mate. A bit of advice on a mini flush would be great! Im home at the moment but I have work later. It would be nice to do it before the lights come on and I go to work.[/QUOTE] 
Ok mate, if you can put your plant in the bath or on the tiolet. If not then a big container to catch the run off. 
 
Your aiming to put 3 x the volume of the pot through the soil. 
 
I use 15 ltr air pots so I use 45/50 ltrs when I'm flushing. 
 
If you can do it in the bath the just put the shower head in there for 15/ 20 mins. When the pot stops dripping return it to your grow room and then feed half strength bloom nutes with around 2/3 ltrs of water. 
 
Then it could take from 4 to 9 days for the pot to dry out. It MUST dry out before you feed again. 
 
Stay with half strength bloom for couple of feeds then up it to full strength. 
 
The idea is that the plant and the medium should contain equal numbers of nutes. 
 
By removing the nutes from the soil the plant can leech the nutes back in to the soil evening it out and remove excess from you plant. 😉 
 
Hope this helps buddy, any questions just chuck up a post and I'll help you out. 
 
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**Pureresin** · 15-05-17, 10:14 PM

Really helpful advice thank you I am finally at ease and confident again. Will keep you updated

**NicktheStick** · 15-05-17, 10:22 PM

Could be a few things

easiest remedy

check ph - if not 5.2-6.2 then reset

check roots - if brown/slimy then water temp is too high in dwc or too much water in soil - can use Hydroguard to salvage roots

if none of above - then defficiency - use Cal Mag Plus or something like an all round defficiency solver

**Ironman** · 15-05-17, 10:58 PM

Originally Posted by Pureresin

Really helpful advice thank you I am finally at ease and confident again. Will keep you updated

Sweet mate, this growing lark is a matter of opinion, there's not many wrong answers. You just have to find the way that suits you and makes your life easier.

Everybody chucks different advice about round here. 😲

My advice would be, read people's opinions/advice, then have a look through that person's THCtalk profile.
You'll find there's a lot of members that just pass on Information with out having the first hand experience or the proof to back it up. If you see a member with a few diaries that show they can grow then that's probably good advice.😉

Im far from an experienced grower but I've grown some big old trees with potent nugs and I've dealt with a lot of issues along the way. Most of my issues have been rectified by the pros of this site and that's why I like to help out where I can. If you get 5 mins, checkout some of these profiles ;
Budlightyear
MC
Erburt
BA Barracus
Jingo
Trex

I've learnt all I know from these top dogs and many others.

They are proper pro growers and know their shizzle😁

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**Randoobula** · 17-05-17, 03:02 AM

[QUOTE=forever_TT_green;1070590392]Im unsure how you can conclude that they are hungry by testing ph? 😞[/

The lower the ph drops below about 6, the more nutrient lockout occurs. The plants I mentioned had numerous symptoms and nothing suggested by others helped. When I adjusted ph to about 6.5 they took of and all new growth was healthy.

The idea that soil doesn't need to be ph'd makes no sense. That could only be true if all soils were the same and had the ability to self regulate ph. If you add acidic water/nutrients to soil, what is it in the soil that lowers ph to a level the plants wants? If there's science to back that up I'll believe it.

I'm always looking to learn so I appreciate your opinion.

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**Ironman** · 17-05-17, 04:08 AM

[QUOTE=Randoobula;1070592882]

Originally Posted by forever_TT_green

Im unsure how you can conclude that they are hungry by testing ph? 😞[/

The lower the ph drops below about 6, the more nutrient lockout occurs. The plants I mentioned had numerous symptoms and nothing suggested by others helped. When I adjusted ph to about 6.5 they took of and all new growth was healthy.

The idea that soil doesn't need to be ph'd makes no sense. That could only be true if all soils were the same and had the ability to self regulate ph. If you add acidic water/nutrients to soil, what is it in the soil that lowers ph to a level the plants wants? If there's science to back that up I'll believe it.

I'm always looking to learn so I appreciate your opinion.

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Have a click on that mate, tells you why you don't PH in soil.
http://www.growell.co.uk/blog/2011/0...owing-in-soil/

@budlightyear please could you check I'm giving the correct information kind sir. I don't want to be giving bad advice/information.😁

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**ggotch** · 02-06-17, 10:11 AM

[QUOTE=Randoobula;1070592882]

Originally Posted by forever_TT_green

Im unsure how you can conclude that they are hungry by testing ph? [/

The lower the ph drops below about 6, the more nutrient lockout occurs. The plants I mentioned had numerous symptoms and nothing suggested by others helped. When I adjusted ph to about 6.5 they took of and all new growth was healthy.

The idea that soil doesn't need to be ph'd makes no sense. That could only be true if all soils were the same and had the ability to self regulate ph. If you add acidic water/nutrients to soil, what is it in the soil that lowers ph to a level the plants wants? If there's science to back that up I'll believe it.

I'm always looking to learn so I appreciate your opinion.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

it is hard to get your head round,specially if like me you are a bit spergic on how things link together.

i struggled like fuck to understand it,see my very early first forum posts

but now i get it,took me a while but it has also led to me exploring ro water n the like and indeed soil makeup etc what is soil and what isnt really, so isnt wasted knowledge at all though i still get ifs and buts cos of how my brain works.

what we're missing here is the microbes and the major part they play .more importantly how they interact with the roots/plant and the soil around.

havent had breakfast yet so cant reason enough to type what ive figured properly,but you dont ph your garden soil do you,you do however add to the soil to improve its ability to feed plants,the bit that is gaining from this work is the microbes,a whole bunch of living structures that are a shield between the inert dead medium,pollution,variable water quality etc and the rootage of another living orgasm,the plant.

its the microbes,blame it all on the microbes/microherd.

worth just investigating the microherd etc and if still unsure,just go look at peoples grows,past and present,theres a lot of cracking grows covering a lot of years stashed away on the talk.

really hungry now,got to go feed my own microherd,fat bastds.