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Thread: 60F res temp, slimey res walls, ph rising fast

  1. #1

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    Default 60F res temp, slimey res walls, ph rising fast

    I have been fighting what I think is root rot for a long time. I am using Hydroguard, I have lowered my res temp to 60F, I have sanitized the system many times, done H202 bathes, run H2O2 in the system, wasn't working so went back to hydro guard. When I clean everything and change the res, the plants momentarily recover and start growing new white healthy looking roots, but In a week or so my ph starts rising rapidly and those roots turn light brown and mushy like the rest. I am thinking about trying a different beneficial microbe additive other than Hydroguard, like maybe voodoo juice. I have also looked at teas, but they seem like quite a hassle. Is this not Pythium, but some other super root rot that can survive at 60F with no light getting at the res and plenty of water circulation? Any info or recommendations would be helpful, thanks.

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    i have ordered an air pump. because there is quite a lot of water movement in my nft system, i thought that i did not need an air pump. i have heard that an air stone raises ph very quickly and that is why i did not want to use it.
    as for tea, i don't understand why i should need microbes made with tea while i am using bottled beneficial microbes. also the tea requires molasses, which i have heard feeds anaerobic bacteria more than beneficial microbes.
    the researchers at botanicare did a 4 year study where they discovered that in all beneficial microbe mixes, one species of microbe out competes the rest and it is the only one that survives after some time, so they made hydroguard which has only that single species. makes sense to me but its not working. maybe my supplier stored it for too long or in a hot area and it has been spoiled (unlikely since they have a high ebay rating), so i have switched to voodoo juice. I have also added sensizyme to help eat up the dead roots
    what do you guys think about these three points?
    Last edited by Fogponics; 04-02-17 at 02:35 PM.

  3. #3

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    Default You have Pythium

    Last summer I had the same problem. After doing some research and re-reading my biology textbooks I found the following info.

    Pythium disease can be recognized by a brown root system that breaks away when pulled. This may also be accompanied by a musty smell as the root system decays. These pathogens directly attack the root system of the plant, causing normally healthy white roots to change color to brown or gray. This typically happens within just a few days of the initial infection of the system. This is followed by a “slimming off” of the roots.

    Products such as Hydrogen Peroxide, or Monochloramine (Pythoff) are useful sterilizing agents. Because Pythium is a living organism, sterilization will kill the Pythium spores.

    I used sodium hypochlorite (Clorox Bleach, since I had this handy), another alternative is calcium hypochlorite (bleaching powder/pool chlorine = approx. 65% Cl). Bleach quickly destroys microbial cells, irreversibly killing many pathogens in the given area. Use 10% bleach water to wash/ sterilize, and run the pump through the sprayers for 24 hrs, with plants in place, no nutes; then flush system twice to remove bleach residue and dead roots/bacteria. This will kill the Pythium and the roots will return to normal color in about 3-4 days.

    After my system was back to normal, I started using 12 ml/gal 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (kills bacteria in my cuts, figured it kills bacteria in the system) on a weekly basis. Hydrogen Peroxide adds oxygen to the water and cleans it of pathogens.

    Important: DO NOT USE OXIDANTS WITH ORGANIC MEDIAS OR ORGANIC ADDITIVES - chlorine and hydrogen peroxide are not suitable for use where organic media (e.g. coco substrate) or organic additives are used. These products are oxidants and oxidants break down organic matter. Chlorine and hydrogen peroxide should never be used together at the same time. Hydrogen peroxide is one method employed by water treatment experts to chase chlorine from water supply mains. I.e. each product (chlorine/hydrogen peroxide) renders the other inert.

    Hope this helps, good luck.

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    Microbial i use all the time...

    roots excelurator in veg microbial in flower

    Ultra Noob with a Sand grain brain (forever blowing bubbles)

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    Nothing organic in dwc/hydro . You can't have a sterile res with things living in it . It just doesn't work IMHO

    sent from mission control

  6. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to British green For This Useful Post:

    mrnice586 (26-02-17), redisiel (26-02-17)

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    I will put a reminder here for people because this problem started in another post where I advised not to use HUMIC ACID in hydro FULVICS are ok
    Redz
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    Quote Originally Posted by redsiel View Post
    I will put a reminder here for people because this problem started in another post where I advised not to use HUMIC ACID in hydro FULVICS are ok
    Redz
    I remember the post Red's and the roots . Now I know you know your shit when it comes to organics and hydro and in your honest opinion do they mix . I've never had any luck with anything organic in my buckets and was asking bud about the use of molasses and he said no no no

    sent from mission control

  10. #8
    black grouse Guest

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    Not to be daft.... but I have a small amount of slime ( mainly on my tank heaters etc ) but isn't Pythium's main effect that the PH drops not rises? Rising PH shows a healthy system I thought?
    I use dutch pro keep it clean each change and have a bottle of pythoff in case it goes south.

  11. #9
    Viz Guest

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    You don't use the Keep it Clean stuff from Dutch Pro in your feed then? One of my mates was telling me that is how he keeps is res and lines in tip top. Never even heard of the stuff before he mentioned it over the weekend.

  12. #10
    black grouse Guest

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    I use it every res change since I had probs with my PH dropping rapidly, thought I had root rot Viz. I bought it years back for my wilma system and found it in the attic tbh.
    Since using it no more issues with PH but mine does rapidly rise - no sign of issues however I thought rising from say.... 5.8 to 6.2 over 24 hours was healthy, and it was just a decline that wasnt hence asking - sorry to slightly hijack.
    Last edited by black grouse; 28-02-17 at 09:03 PM.

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