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Thread: Hydroguard or equivalent?

  1. #1

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    Default Hydroguard or equivalent?

    Hi guys.

    Just about to build my first rdwc.

    I see a lot of people use hydroguard in their solution but I can't find a UK supplier.

    Can anyone recommend anywhere or a similar product that helps prevent root rot.

    I'm going to buy a chiller eventually in summer but I can't afford it this time around so res temps may creep up to 21-22 degrees and I want to avoid root rot at all costs.

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    Cheers Dru!!!

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  3. #2

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    hi green giant

    you dont need hydroguard mate .... keep every thing clean and res temp within range and youll be fine .whilst 21/22 isnt ideal its nowhere near danger danger levels (in my opinion) ,also youll be surprised at how much frozen 2ltr bottles of water can keep your res temps down ,can become a chore changing them out but it is at least a bit of a solution to help.

    im on my 2nd grow dwc ,i dont use hydrogaurd and i dont have a water chiller either but was doing the frozen water bottle trick at the end of summer when i started my first ,i dont have to do the bottle trick at the mo as its nice and cold ....

    good luck with your grow get a diary fired up on here as there is loads of good guys that will keep you straight

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  5. #3

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    Some good advice there from Dazza, But if you do still want a additive check out buddhas tree defender

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  7. #4

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    I have built a fair few RDWC systems over the years, and although a chiller is prefferable, you can also get away without one, depending on a few things.

    One of the systems i built, I used a RDWC for a few years with no chiller, without problems, and without using any bennies or hydroguard, hydrogen sulphide or any of that shit.

    It all depends on a number of factors, but heres a few to consider;
    Where you site your tent/room. If its in a garage or cold shed, you can site the res outside but may have to insulate it to keep the temps up.
    Ive only ever grown indoors, and never had to insulate a res.
    where you site your res (outside the tent if you want to keep temps manageble is my advice),
    Insulate the totes/boxes, and if you insulate the boxes it will help to keep the temps of the nutrient within them cooler.
    Reflective film to the top of the totes reflect the light / heat back upwards.
    Iced bottles can be used, but aim to get yourself a chiller if you can, its much less hassle/ grief.
    And use boxes which have a decent capacity. I used to use mostly 84l really useful boxes, but have used the 64 litre ones too. The more nutrient you have and the bigger the box, the bigger the surface area for the nutrient to keep cool.

    but the best bit of advice i can give you is this- dont use any nutrient which contains anything organic, it will surely fuck your roots up, and once that spythium shit is in the system, its next to impossible to get rid of. Also bleach out your system after every grow. Run through a weak bleach water solution for a few days, while all of that bud is drying, empty out and fill her up and away you go.
    Also change out your res regularly, every 2 weeks, 3 at the most.

    cheers

    er, cant think of anything else, but hopefully this will help
    I used a 2 pot system
    Last edited by bigbadbillybob; 03-02-17 at 04:30 PM.

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    Default

    Thanks for the reply dude.

    I'm only in my nursery setup at the moment. That's the following:

    42L really useful
    300m cfl for veg
    5 140mm net pots with clay balls and 4" rock wool.
    Hailea v30 air pump

    Roots just getting into the water now.

    Air temps are 23
    Res temp is 17.5
    Back ec is 0.3
    Overall ec is 0.6
    General hydro trio nutrients.
    Nothing else added as yet.
    Gotta heater incase but minimum setting is 20 which is a bit annoying.

    Temps a little low but I smashed half my cfl so it's only 150 at present. New one in order to keep them happy before a transfer into the big system.

    I'll definitely keep my res outside of my room. I also thought that getting cold air to my air pump would also keep water temps down since its blasted through the water.

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  11. #6

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    air pump outside the tent/ room too mate.
    You dont want to oxygenate the water with Co2 laden air that the plants are transpiring.
    And the plants will survive fine with the water at 17.5 degrees, but you could do with upping the air temp by a couple of degrees if possible.
    Stick the HPS in there. I dont generally bother with CFLs to be honest, unless its for my clones, for the first week or so.
    Sounds like a decent set up you have there tho, whats the main system like, have you got a link to the build?

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    Default

    Hi. Bob. Thanks for the reply buddy.

    I'll put the pump outside the room when res temps rise as I address air temps.

    It's in a cupboard in my bathroom which gets really cold but I'll be moving it once my lodger moves out on Sunday.

    I've just ordered a 600 halide for my ballast so I'll run that once I'm sorted.

    I'll post a pic of my nursery build. I've not build my main system yet. I'll be doing that on Sunday. I'll take photos and post up a build when I do it with all costs. It's a big capacity system that's good quality products and it's pretty good on costs too. May help others with builds.

    I'm going to be running 4 plants in a 1.2 X 1.2 curved scrog. Never done it before but I want 30oz lol.

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  15. #8

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    You wont be pulling that fella from a 600 sorry to burst your bubble. A gavita maybe able to hit that however

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrnice586 View Post
    You wont be pulling that fella from a 600 sorry to burst your bubble. A gavita maybe able to hit that however

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    1.5 per watt isn't unheard of but yeah I don't think I'll be seeing it this time around.

    I'm saving for the gavita lol.

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  18. #10

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    A few pointers for you, youll need a chiller if running in summer. Temps need to be at 18c.

    A hydroguard replacement would be great white.

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