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Thread: Anyone had root aphids in flowering? or any other damage in mid flower

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    Exclamation Anyone had root aphids in flowering? or any other damage in mid flower

    Hi,well blast me,thunder came from sky,i got root aphids,i saw them before but thought they should look more dangerous and that they were springtail babies,ohh well,anyway,I hit them with pesticides and im not sure if there are left any or not,but seems like I cant find that many in soil,anyway,plants like in 6 weeks of flower,I will go 4 weeks more.Lower never shoots curled this is why I acted instantly,anyway I dont think im gonna yield anything decent since I have them forever and I guess they did their job to fook me up,I was wondering why at week 4 my all house wasnt stinking like it should..so,anyone were able to fak up their plants in mid flower and end up ok? I think my buds kind a small and under developed,well what do you want if my roots are eaten,but since I have time to go im thinking maybe they would build up over like 10 days and resume on flowering? How cannabis reacts to stress during flowering and bud develoment would be smarter appropriate question I guess.

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  3. #2
    Hobbit Guest

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    First time ive heard of root aphids, this might help.

    Natural and Organic Controls
    Organic methods are preferred with root aphids since most insecticides are only moderately effective and may just end up making your garden more vulnerable to other pests by removing beneficial insects. Young and/or heavily infested plants should be culled since replacing them will be less costly in the long run.

    Botanigard ES & WP
    There is a reason this product is at the top of our list. Botanigard is a mycoinsecticide, or insect killing fungus. It can be inoculated in the root zone and kills all stages of crawlers (it kills fliers but they are less likely to come in contact). Aphids are unable to build up an immunity to the mycelium, and it’s perfectly safe to use up to the day of harvest. So while it isn’t cheap, and won’t kill them all in one shot, Botanigard is definitely worth the cost.

    OG Biowar Foliar Pack
    Another excellent biological control, OG Biowar packs contain beneficial microbes in a pure talc carrier. This means they can be brewed into a activated compost tea and applied as a foliar spray or root drench. The foliar pack is specifically tailored to help plants fight off pests and resist stress, and even includes insecticidal microbe species that work similarly to Botanigard. This product is highly recommended both as a treatment and preventative.

    Azamax / Azatrol / Neem / Azadirachtin
    Plants treated with a neem foliar spray and root drench will be more resistant to (and may actually repel) pests and disease. That makes neem oil our go to preventative. If you are fighting an active infestation, try switching to an Azadirachtin concentrate like Azamax or Azatrol for a more powerful anti-feedant effect.

    Insecticidal Soaps / Oils
    Essential oils like rosemary, capsaicin from pepper plants, and Insecticidal soaps like Garden Safe or Safer 3-in-1 are most effective as a foliar and “spot spray” to kill fliers. However, you can also try an essential oil and capsaicin root drench for an extra punch, just try it on a test plant first. As always, be careful with any kind of foliar spray during the bloom phase when plants are more susceptible to rot and mildew.

    Predatory Nematodes
    These beneficial parasites attack aphids in the root zone. However, once established root aphids can simply out-breed nematodes. These are best used as a preventative or in conjunction with other methods.

    Bonus Tips on Manual Removal
    Removing winged adults form the environment can dramatically slow aphids from spreading. If you have vented reflectors, you can try removing the glass (but still keeping them vented). Any winged aphids that fly up towards the light will just get sucked up and out of your room, so be mindful of where the exhaust goes. This was very effective for me in vegetative phase where I didn’t need to keep the lights/room sealed. Already in bloom or can’t vent your lights without the glass? Grab a shop-vac. Remember that winged aphids will fly up at lights on, suck them up while they’re conveniently in one place before they get a chance to lay eggs or get stuck in your flowers.

    Insecticides
    Root Aphids are incredibly hardy. Very few pesticides are capable of a “total kill” in one application. They can simply out-breed typical control methods, and quickly build up a resistance to poisons. Many of their natural predators, like nematodes and ladybugs, are also wiped out with pesticide use. Gardens already chemically treated for other problems may be especially vulnerable to root aphids. That is not to say that organic methods are the only choice, just that you should be careful and aware before you start applying any type of poison or insecticide.

    If you do choose the synthetic route there are a few things to keep in mind. Ultimately, one or more pesticides may be required to effectively control a root aphid infestation. Be very careful when applying multiple products, it’s a good idea to stagger applications and try each product out on a tester plant first.

    Natural and Synthetic Pyrethrin

    Contact killers like Pyrethrins do kill root aphids. An aerosol or fogger can make short work of fliers. However, they aren’t as effective against the aphids in the root zone since they reproduce so quickly, and can invade all parts of the growing environment. Even synthetic pyrethrins which remain in the environment longer may not achieve a total kill before aphids develop resistance.

    Other insecticides

    There are a variety of other chemical insecticides which will kill aphids on contact. Bonide Eight, Ortho Bug B Gone and Seven Concentrate Bug Killer are all good options to use in concert with another, preferably systemic insecticide.

    Imidacloprid

    The most effective systemic pesticide is nicotine based Imidacloprid. It kills aphids and other insects by overwhelming their immune system as they feed on the plant. This means it doesn’t need to come in direct contact with aphids and can achieve a total kill with proper application.

    Note: Imidacloprid is highly toxic to Bees (and most other beneficial insects), so it is not suitable for use in organic, outdoor or greenhouse grows. Great care must be taken even with indoor application. However, it has not been found to be carcinogenic so it can be a safe option if the manufacturers instructions are followed carefully.

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  5. #3

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    What makes you think root aphids buddy?...Any pics he bit more info wouldn't go amiss. I'm unsure really what you want from this post, help diagnosing aphids? Help recovering them in flower? For either of those you need to supply lots more info and photos.

    If you do a full post of symptoms and pictures and what's happened previous to the problems, humidity, temp, feed regime, etc etc. Pic of aphids? See I've not really seen any aphids in roots before so would love to see your issues. I'm sure many would like to see this. The thing is it's easy to look at plant, think hmm problems, plant struggling and then try find a reason, so then you look at roots and see springtails and blame them! I have once wrongly thought I've had some nasty root ester as opposed to springtails but it wasn't, it was over watering affecting roots and poor old springs got the blame. Best of luck mate
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    I prey these are not root aphids mate, as above more info needed,
    I noticed you said soil so straight away I would mix 1:4 hydrogen peroxide and water mist the top layer of the soil making sure it soaks down a good couple inches evenly, this will burn the larvae and allow you time to make a proper plan of action.
    I would strongly recommend reading up on IPM for future growing.
    Hope this helps
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    took me 3 grows get rid of them, they will be in the top and bottom. aphids are little crawly things when they have sucked all the juice out of the plant they grow wings and move on, i used to use liquid soap diluted in a spray bottle, i would tap the plant pot on the floor when the little fucker came our i'd blast them with the spray, was a pain in the arse doing it twice everyday but doing it enabled the plants finish with a good result.

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  11. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by happyjack View Post
    took me 3 grows get rid of them, they will be in the top and bottom. aphids are little crawly things when they have sucked all the juice out of the plant they grow wings and move on, i used to use liquid soap diluted in a spray bottle, i would tap the plant pot on the floor when the little fucker came our i'd blast them with the spray, was a pain in the arse doing it twice everyday but doing it enabled the plants finish with a good result.
    From what I read yesterday root aphids never grow wings.

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    aphids are little crawly things when they have sucked all the juice out of the plant they grow wings and move on. root aphids do NOT grow wings they already have them
    Last edited by happyjack; 16-05-17 at 08:44 AM.

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    see if this helps.
    Because of their size and below-soil habitat they can go unnoticed, even through one or more grow cycles. They can be spotted attached to the sides of grow cups when growers take the trouble to look. Root aphid damage is often mistaken for other problems, especially nutrient deficiencies. Plants that appear to be suffering from magnesium or iron deficiency should be checked carefully for root aphids.
    In outdoor gardens, root aphids may be accompanied by ants. Once established in soil or hydroponic systems, root aphids are difficult to completely remove.
    Lifecycle

    Root aphids are surprisingly adaptable and their lifecycle can vary tremendously. They reproduce asexually during the growing season. Eggs over-winter in soil or, in warm seasons, are attached to leaves and stems above the root line where they hatch and fall to the ground. The aphid bores into the root, creating scars that leave plants vulnerable to mildew and disease. As infestations increase, “crawlers” will move up the stem to feed. Once a plant is nearly destroyed, some root aphids will develop wings that enable them to seek new plants to attack. In the fall, winged aphids, now male and female, mate in brush and trees and produce more eggs. Ants are known to carry aphids from exhausted plants to un-colonized ones.
    Damage

    Damage from root aphids is usually visible in a lack of vigor from plants. Withered, curled, and yellow leaves, similar to signs of nutrient deficiencies, appear and plants fail to reach the size of uninfested plants. Fruits and blossoms on aphid infested plants will be small, stunted, and generally less desirable as nutrition is siphoned away from them.

  14. #9
    Hobbit Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by happyjack View Post
    aphids are little crawly things when they have sucked all the juice out of the plant they grow wings and move on. root aphids do NOT grow wings they already have them
    cheers mate.

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