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Thread: Going to grow a almost pure sativa in a 135cm space, best approach?

  1. #11

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    The problem with auto's when I bought seeds was that I didn't find any with enough sativa while low enough in indica, but I was also very much in favour of photoperiod strains.

    In the end of course I'll simply find out but I really want to maximize the chances of me returning here to tell you about a small but high-quality material grow rather than returning here to tell you about my complete and utter failure which ended up as nothing at all. I'm sure many have had grows that failed completely, maybe I should get rid if the Chocolate Haze(95% sativa) which haven't shown it self from below the soil yet and instead plant a Amnesia Haze(70% sativa).
    Could that make things easier for me?

    I am starting to see that I might have made a few mistakes in my planning for this grow and I wonder the following:

    1.
    The optimal way to grow this plant if not concerned with space would be to keep the plant in 18-6 until it starts showing preflowers and then switch it to 12-12 until harvest.
    But what if space is a concern, if grown 12-12 from seed it would be detrimental to the growth, but what about the quality of the buds?
    If I would accept the lower yield of 12-12 from seed, could I still end up with buds of the same quality as if grown with a vegetative period?

    2.
    I am leaning towards trying to use the technique of limiting stretching by the deliberate choice of too small pots.
    As I see it(without any experience mind you) if I took a pot that was too small for the plant to develop as much as it can and then re-pot it after the phase of stretching have passed(which I would have to simply guess or wait long enough to be sure, or simply manage to dodge some of the stretching) into a much larger pot to allow the plant access to grow it's roots as much as it can, it would be a good idea to re-pot several times since if only 1 "choke pot" was used the plant might get root bound bad enough so that when I re-pot it into a much larger pot that will not matter because the roots are still bound. But if I re-pot many times each time a little larger then maybe I could keep the root bounding from becoming bad enough so that the plant can't spread it's root afterwards.
    Is this just fantasies without any chance of success, if you would guess?

    3.
    If the size of the pot determines the maximum size of the plant, is it then possible to choose a pot size that would keep the sativa constrained appropriately to the size of my tent while allowing it the optimum amount of soil, considering the need for constraining it to a 60*60*135cm allowable growing space?
    If you had only 60*60*135cm space to grow a sativa and where going to try and use the size of the pot to keep the plant from getting out of hand even with extensive training, which size of pot would be your first guess for a suitable pot size?

    4.
    I have a few training ideas which I need to choose from but this is one option to try and follow:

    I have formed a plan loosely, and that have been to allow the plant to grow 5 or more internodes and then topp the plant down to 3 internodes and then train those into 6 colas evenly spaced in the tent.
    Even though I do not like the idea of the following maybe I should consider defoliation, to train the plant into 6 colas but purposely limiting any further larger branches to form and grow tall.

    Please note that considering the challenge I obviously stand before I am willing to sacrifice any yield as a result of the measures to keep it under control as long as the quality of the herb doesn't get degraded noticeably, does it sound like a mistake to allow the plant to grow all by its own and then topp a considerable amount of it only leaving 3 nodes and then use super-cropping to bend the by then think hardy stem below the first node in order to bend the plant 90deg to allow those 6 remaining branches to get the attention to develop into colas?


    I appreciate the fact that it is probably impossible for you to give me the answers to these questions but I am simply asking your opinion or straight out guesses, I value your guesses to be infinitely more worth than my guesses.

    I'm not in panic mode but I am starting to question this endeavour, but in the end I simply have to find a way to grow high-quality heavy sativa strains in my small grow tent, the only question is how the fudge do I limit the growth while not limiting the quality of the end result.
    Last edited by DDG; 10-05-18 at 10:44 PM.

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  3. #12

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    Just to make it perfectly clear, I am perfectly willing to sacrifice any yield as long as I can maintain the quality of the buds grown.
    This is just to start with, with time I would develop a better way of growing but right now it is all about simply pulling of my first grow with any buds at all to show for it.

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  5. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by DDG View Post
    Just to make it perfectly clear, I am perfectly willing to sacrifice any yield as long as I can maintain the quality of the buds grown.
    This is just to start with, with time I would develop a better way of growing but right now it is all about simply pulling of my first grow with any buds at all to show for it.
    You can't go wrong with a Colombian Gold from Green House. But it will triple in size during flowering. So keep an measurement on as it is growing so you don't run out of room. You can tied it down and ben it over half way before you flip, this will help give you some more room. good luck and happy growing.

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  7. #14

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    As soon as you get a full set of leaves flip them to 12/12, limit the veg time.
    Small pots will just get root bound, super cropping and LST , topping will all slow vertical growth temporarily.
    If needed, i guess when it starts to overgrow, just cut it back. Counterproductive but is an option.

    Look forward to your grow.


    Check it out, grow started march 11............ Flip May 1st
    Led lighting various soils
    https://www.thctalk.com/cannabis-foru...-dirt-4x4-tent

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  9. #15

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    Small pots will also mean you'll be watering none stop and there is absolutely no point in repotting once the stretch is done as plant will be focusing on buds and won't be putting down new roots to take advantage of the extra room.

    (although it may help with watering a tiny bit, that is if you don't just end up with soggy sides and bottom that suffocate the roots.)

    I personally wouldn't be concerned with waiting for preflowers. Honestly least of your worries imo and as outdoor sativas take such a long time to grow and stretch for a long time I'd see it as a waste of time to let it grow that far and then chop it right back. I've flowered two weeks after seed sprouted before with good success.

    You keep mentioning you're willing to accept you'll loose some yield but I don't think you had a choice to make about that in the first place.

    Of course you'll be down on yield to letting it grow to 2m and it's full potential?

    No one so far has mentioned PGRs. Maybe for good reason but if you're serious about this it might help. (look up rox)
    Last edited by JB; 11-05-18 at 05:08 PM.

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  11. #16

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    Well of course I'll loose yield compared to growing outdoors or indoors with enough space, and that growing in a small space inherently means lower yield. But what I have been trying to say is that if there are additional techniques to use that would reduce or keep the plants size under control with the down-side of loosing yield then I am positive towards such suggestions.

    I think I will do what Wsg suggested and switch to 12-12 when I have a full sett of leaves.

    About PGRs, rox seems to be made out of synthetic PGRs and with the little reading I have done(I will read more) I have found suggestions that synthetic PGRs may very well be very dangerous to humans but that there are organic PGRs that are much safer. In the end anything that does what Row PGR does(and all the side-effects) is something I don't want to get into, thanks for the tip though, I had never heard of that kind of product before.

    @hotshot, did you suggest Colombian Gold from Green House due to that strain featuring a short flowering time?
    In any case I am for sure intrigued by the description of that strain on sooner or later I will for sure be trying that one.

    I am rather uncertain about what will happen now, it may be that I will take pictures and document along the grow and then when it is finished put together a dairy of sorts, maybe more of an presentation featuring pictures from the entire grow. But I might very well return here posting the odd picture to ask things along the way, in any case I intend to tell you all about how the grow went.

    By the way, is it possible to carefully push soil to the side in order to get a glimpse of how the seed is doing without really disturbing the seeds roots or growth?
    And I mean REALLY carefully.

    I am also really concerned with my soil, I got Canna Bio Terra soil mix but the soil is mostly made out of large chunks of stuff, to the point where I wonder how suitable it is without first breaking it apart, the sizes of the chunks is as large as a peanut in it's shell and smaller all the way down to nothing. It is very different from all the soils I have encountered during my life in gardens and different places(without really being deeply involved in any cultivation), in order to break a little chunk up I had to use enough force such that I question the suitability of this soil for a seed to germinate in.

    I have bought perlite(which is much smaller than most of the chunks in the soil) and a propagation box with those dry round and flat things that you water and then they expand into a thing to put the seed into.
    And I will try and take the soil and break up all the chunks into much smaller stuff and mixing in some perlite for good measure, I can't know but I don't think the seed will have a easy or good start in the pot and soil I have put it into, but time will show.

    Is it worth using soil mixes for seeds specially formulated or mix the soil with some coco coir in order to create a soil that is easier for the plant to grow through?

    Thank you all very much for you answers.

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  13. #17
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    switching to 12-12 before it's mature only makes them stretch even more,
    i have tried it myself, it just makes them even stretchier/leggy come maturity,

    they cannot flower until they are mature, no matter the light schedule from seed,

    the soil i can't help since i don't use canna, but big lumps doesn't sound correct,

    i use a light mix for seeds and all-mix for more mature plants

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  15. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by MonsterEnergy View Post
    switching to 12-12 before it's mature only makes them stretch even more,
    i have tried it myself, it just makes them even stretchier/leggy come maturity,

    they cannot flower until they are mature, no matter the light schedule from seed,
    I must have imagined the plants I grew then as they turned just fine after only two weeks from seeds.

    Took no longer than normal to start flowering (i.e another 2 weeks)

    Yes the plants need to be mature but if they mature while you're already at 12/12 then where does that leave you but ahead of the game?

    Both just our personal experience but you seem to be very categorical that you're right.
    Last edited by JB; 12-05-18 at 04:31 AM.

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  17. #19

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    I am rather uncertain about what will happen now, it may be that I will take pictures and document along the grow and then when it is finished put together a dairy of sorts, maybe more of an presentation featuring pictures from the entire grow. But I might very well return here posting the odd picture to ask things along the way, in any case I intend to tell you all about how the grow went.
    Why not do a diary on here.

    I don't really get that?

    You're gonna need some help along this journey and it will benefit everyone here to tag along for the ride.

    Why already limit yourself to some post grow synopsis when no one will remember this post by then?

    I'd love to follow along with your progress on this journey. (lots of us would like to grow sativas and are too scared. Ha ha)

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  19. #20

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    As for more practical stuff you can do to keep stretch down.

    Lower Nitrogen levels during stretch, use MH or blue spectrum while vegging and keep day and night temperatures within a few degrees.

    "Plant internodal length is directly related to the difference between day and night temperatures (or lights on and off) – the warmer your day cycle is as compared to your night cycle, the greater your internode length will be. The opposite also holds true; the closer your day and night temperatures, the shorter your internodes will be."
    Last edited by JB; 12-05-18 at 04:57 AM.

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