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Thread: LED strips

  1. #1

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    Angry LED strips

    Hi

    Grow room
    Grow area 2ft d, 4ft w, 7ft h.
    T5 4f 54w ho 8 tubes.
    exhaust fan 6".
    Oscillating Tower Fan
    inkbird temperature controller.
    Inkbird humidity controller.
    greenhouse tube heater 4ft.
    3 autopots.
    (Maximum Grow Area Height 5ft.)


    I am just about ready to buy my LED strips.
    I am confused which strips to buy and how many.
    I prefer to use strips because I can get a more even canopy and from what I have read you can bring these strips closer to canopy i.e. 8,10 inches.


    1. I was thinking about mixing Samsung single row LED, veg and bloom I don't know the wattage of strips.
    what I have read and seen on YouTube they are mixing these strips.
    LED MOD FSERIES GEN3 3500K STRIP.
    LED MOD FSERIES GEN3 3000K STRIP.
    I was thinking about buying 5 of each

    2. diyleduk Samsung H-inFlux LM301B 3000k for veg and bloom Led strip (75w max) double row LED.
    Thinking about buying 6 strips

    3. Looking for a driver which I can dim, don't know which is best series or parallel..

    Would this mount up across 2ft x 4ft, Maximum grow area height 5ft.
    is what I'm trying to do is equal 600W digital ballast HPS bulb, or am I doing it the wrong way.

    thanks.

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  3. #2

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    A 600w hid in a 2x4 would be quite damaging to many plants. It could light an area 50% larger, to levels akin to the mid day sun on the equator. A time where even accustomed plants can be doing more healing than growing.

    Just reading between the lines to see where you're at, I think a 315w CMH might be in order. I have limited knowledge of them, but the useful output seems on par with a 600, on a watt for watt basis. You would want one with a budget style shade to illuminate your 2x4. Later, you could add some leds to assist it. For now though, It's likely all you need, and a simple installation. Allowing you to get on with growing something sooner.




    I think the latest H influx look good, but the sizes readily available are limiting. You have to sum them up and then look at dimming. I'm not convinced it's worth it. I use led's to veg, and as side lighting. The Citizen one's. I wouldn't use them as main flowering lights though. The numbers may look convincing, but the numbers applied to more traditional lighting are for par light, which doesn't even include 660nm output. You can literally feel energy coming off a sodium that's not measured during comparisons. Which highlights the futility of such comparisons quite well.

    People are loving them CMH lamps. Get a net across your space to train them to keep some distance away, and you should be golden.

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    Hi Paul

    With 8 sq feet you should be looking at 240w to 320w of LM301Bs to achieve a good yield.

    3000K is fine for full cycle and contains plenty of 660nm far red, although this can be supplemented.

    5ft of grow height isnt prohibitive to this lighting but is too certain cannabis varieties as you may know




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  7. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by friendly_electrician View Post
    A 600w hid in a 2x4 would be quite damaging to many plants. It could light an area 50% larger, to levels akin to the mid day sun on the equator. A time where even accustomed plants can be doing more healing than growing.

    Just reading between the lines to see where you're at, I think a 315w CMH might be in order. I have limited knowledge of them, but the useful output seems on par with a 600, on a watt for watt basis. You would want one with a budget style shade to illuminate your 2x4. Later, you could add some leds to assist it. For now though, It's likely all you need, and a simple installation. Allowing you to get on with growing something sooner.




    I think the latest H influx look good, but the sizes readily available are limiting. You have to sum them up and then look at dimming. I'm not convinced it's worth it. I use led's to veg, and as side lighting. The Citizen one's. I wouldn't use them as main flowering lights though. The numbers may look convincing, but the numbers applied to more traditional lighting are for par light, which doesn't even include 660nm output. You can literally feel energy coming off a sodium that's not measured during comparisons. Which highlights the futility of such comparisons quite well.

    People are loving them CMH lamps. Get a net across your space to train them to keep some distance away, and you should be golden.
    Quote Originally Posted by friendly_electrician View Post
    A 600w hid in a 2x4 would be quite damaging to many plants. It could light an area 50% larger, to levels akin to the mid day sun on the equator. A time where even accustomed plants can be doing more healing than growing.

    Just reading between the lines to see where you're at, I think a 315w CMH might be in order. I have limited knowledge of them, but the useful output seems on par with a 600, on a watt for watt basis. You would want one with a budget style shade to illuminate your 2x4. Later, you could add some leds to assist it. For now though, It's likely all you need, and a simple installation. Allowing you to get on with growing something sooner.




    I think the latest H influx look good, but the sizes readily available are limiting. You have to sum them up and then look at dimming. I'm not convinced it's worth it. I use led's to veg, and as side lighting. The Citizen one's. I wouldn't use them as main flowering lights though. The numbers may look convincing, but the numbers applied to more traditional lighting are for par light, which doesn't even include 660nm output. You can literally feel energy coming off a sodium that's not measured during comparisons. Which highlights the futility of such comparisons quite well.

    People are loving them CMH lamps. Get a net across your space to train them to keep some distance away, and you should be golden.
    PAR does include 660nm, friendly

    CMH are ok and a step up on high pressure sodium but emit around 40% less light per unit watt of electricity Vs lm301b

    I'm sat Infront of a halogen heater right now. I can feel lots of energy but it would make a terrible grow light.






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    My bad. I'm mixing my terms up.
    A floodlight is generally measured in Lumens. This is light we can see, and is measured too 600nm. 660nm is outside the envelope of a standard Lumen Meter measurement. You could have any amount of 660nm radiation, and it would have no bearing on the lumen per watt figure. As we can't really see it.

    There is no conversion between Lm and a Par figure. Par being a measure taken as high as 700nm, and not about illumination.

    Radiated Watts is measured to 800nm.

    While PAR is what we should be talking about, the common measurement of both leds and hids is Lm. So people will use that for comparison. Finding the 190lm of the strips much more appealing than the 150lm of a decent sodium. But my point is that making a comparison where 660nm isn't even counted, is misleading.



    The Par numbers of the CMH and LED are very close. Personally, I would rather work with the single fixture to aid thermal management. With thoughts towards that 700-800nm far red radiation that's not being measured in Par readings. Impossible to quantify, but I believe every little helps.

    Leds can lead to a lot of clutter. While making things yourself when you don't really understand them, has safety implications. Which is my main reason for suggesting the 315w fixture in this thread. It's straight forward.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gardro View Post
    Hi Paul

    With 8 sq feet you should be looking at 240w to 320w of LM301Bs to achieve a good yield.

    3000K is fine for full cycle and contains plenty of 660nm far red, although this can be supplemented.

    5ft of grow height isnt prohibitive to this lighting but is too certain cannabis varieties as you may know




    Current diary
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    Hi gardro

    I was thinking the same thing 35OOOK +3OOOK would that be more suited because I was thinking 35OOOK stop some of the stretch and gave me tighter node spacing is that correct.

    So the Samsung H-inFlux LM301B 3000k is better why. The only over one they do 4000k . So that's why I was thinking LED MOD FSERIES GEN3 3500K STRIP + LED MOD FSERIES GEN3 3000K STRIP.

    Or I could mix the two strips together.


    Thanks.

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  13. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by paul4 View Post
    Hi gardro

    I was thinking the same thing 35OOOK +3OOOK would that be more suited because I was thinking 35OOOK stop some of the stretch and gave me tighter node spacing is that correct.

    So the Samsung H-inFlux LM301B 3000k is better why. The only over one they do 4000k . So that's why I was thinking LED MOD FSERIES GEN3 3500K STRIP + LED MOD FSERIES GEN3 3000K STRIP.

    Or I could mix the two strips together.


    Thanks.
    All of the options will be fine. 3000K is fine in lm301, 3500K is hard to find

    F series which use lm561, 3500K is slightly more optimal for full growth cycle

    Have a look at the costs. The lm301s are newer and around 8% more efficient than F series.

    Let me know if you want to do a build thread




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    Yes I'll do a build thread.

    Okay ready we start.

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    love a good diy rig

    I'll pull up a seat for this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by friendly_electrician View Post
    My bad. I'm mixing my terms up.
    A floodlight is generally measured in Lumens. This is light we can see, and is measured too 600nm. 660nm is outside the envelope of a standard Lumen Meter measurement. You could have any amount of 660nm radiation, and it would have no bearing on the lumen per watt figure. As we can't really see it.

    There is no conversion between Lm and a Par figure. Par being a measure taken as high as 700nm, and not about illumination.

    Radiated Watts is measured to 800nm.

    While PAR is what we should be talking about, the common measurement of both leds and hids is Lm. So people will use that for comparison. Finding the 190lm of the strips much more appealing than the 150lm of a decent sodium. But my point is that making a comparison where 660nm isn't even counted, is misleading.



    The Par numbers of the CMH and LED are very close. Personally, I would rather work with the single fixture to aid thermal management. With thoughts towards that 700-800nm far red radiation that's not being measured in Par readings. Impossible to quantify, but I believe every little helps.

    Leds can lead to a lot of clutter. While making things yourself when you don't really understand them, has safety implications. Which is my main reason for suggesting the 315w fixture in this thread. It's straight forward.
    You lost me at,my bad,ha ha,looks like your quite clued up on lights,you and Gardo have lots to discuss.
    It's nice to be nice.

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