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Thread: Air Cooled Led lights

  1. #1

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    Default Air Cooled Led lights

    I knocked these up to have a play around with Citizen 1212 cobs, and how they might help with temperature management. I can't find the tool I need to manage my post properly, but I will do my best.

    Image one shows two completed units. With twin speed fan, a noise filtered iec socket, a power meter showing what the LED circuit is doing, and the brightness control. Which I wanted flush, to make packing them easier. The illuminated unit is stood upon a short box that is basically ducting. You can see it has two holes, and there is a further one hidden at the back. In use, this little box, using the holes shown, links the lights together. Giving a single extraction point (the 3rd hidden hole). This way, the lights are ventilated by their own fans, and the extraction system. Allowing for a single fan failure to not matter.

    I'm failing here.. I need more posts to keep the order correct
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  2. #2

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    Default

    Well that formatted ok, but I won't risk touching it again.

    This is really too much hard work, so I will just dump a few more pics here. The little LED driver is a 12v supply for the fan and meter. At £3 it's a cheap tidy power solution. The duct is electrical trunking. The heatsinks passive cpu coolers. The led's are not exactly sat square upon them, as I was snapping off 3mm thread taps like they were chocolate. Overall I'm happy with the result. The recessed control took a little doing, but it's solidly mounted. I used pvc weld, which is a lot like evo-stik contact adhesive, but actually melts the surfaces together. Hence it's pvc weld, not pvc glue. That little black tube is actually two tubes. One you see on the completed unit, and another just 2mm shorter is cut down it's side to slip over the first. This is what you see inside. So its a tube over a tube, with the inner one just a couple off mm longer, to give a nice interference fitted butt joint with the trunking. Add to that the pvc weld, and it will take a hammer to shift it. Despite appearances.

    I'm not sure why I can't reach full power. They don't dim at the same rate either. I have used these £10 chips with £7.50 heatsinks and £12 50W Osram drivers, and seen 50W. 50W for £30 is about the best value decent light I have made. I won't use Meanwell again at this power level. It's nice to turn them up and down, but I'm just as happy turning some on and off. Knowing a single ballast failure, is a single led out.

    I will end with a few words on teflon pan scouring sponges. They don't look professional
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  4. #3

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    You cant turn them up all the way because you have a 150w driver and those are 100w chips.

    That heat dissipation is a bit scary for me. Ive always seen cobs built on square frames with direct cooling and open air between the driver and the chips. One fan on a closed tube is too much like a hair dryer for me.

  5. #4

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    Did you fabricate air dams over the tops of the heat sinks?

    Man, I aint saying you cant do it but you have to be REALLY sure about your math.

  6. #5

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    When I say you cant turn them up all the way I dont mean you arent getting everything from your driver. Your pulling around 140 watts. Your driver doesn't have anything more to give.

  7. #6

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    He's gone.

    Electrocuted, apparently.

    Let's we forget.
    https://www.thctalk.com/cannabis-forum/signaturepics/sigpic82640_3.gif

    Neckbeard, cute dog, pansy-ass fuck* pursuing herb immunity since 1966

    *TM. HazyClouds (RIP)

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    AND (04-12-18), Benson123 (07-12-18), C-Rex (04-12-18), gardro (04-12-18)

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