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Thread: Yellowing of leaves 3 weeks into flower

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    Default Yellowing of leaves 3 weeks into flower

    Hi people,

    I am 3 weeks into flower with a little vannilla kush & a super lemon haze.I have been using GHE Bio Sevia Bloom and westlands multi with john innes, and also a mix of perlite and wormcasts.Things have been going well but the older leaves are now yellowing from the bottom up on both plants . The new leaves are fine and the buds are also looking good .is this anything to worry about ?.My temps have been good and i am also using a 400hps.

    Cheers in advance.

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    Nitrogen deficiency. Increase your feeds.

    or it could be a low light thing if the plants are big.

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    do you mean increase the amount or give on more reg basis ?

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    increase the concentrations. increase the amount of food you put into the water.

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    Hi steggs, if they are 3 weeks into flower I would not give them too much nitrogen, a little shoud do no harm, it's normal for the lower fan leaves to yellow when 3 weeks into flowering.
    All good things
    TDA
    You can find me at t-g-c.nl. along with the rest of the good guys.

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    Quote Originally Posted by THE DUDE ABIDES View Post
    Hi steggs, if they are 3 weeks into flower I would not give them too much nitrogen, a little shoud do no harm, it's normal for the lower fan leaves to yellow when 3 weeks into flowering.
    All good things
    TDA
    I was thinking that they are ok as the buds look great and the leaves around them are also healthy ! cheers man...

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    that depends on the size of the plants and the light quality of the space. it's normal for plants to drop leaves all the time if those leaves do not have access to light.

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    I wouldn't worry too much as the plant uses up all the goodness in the leaves when in flowering , Jesus you want to see mine.
    You tried your best and you failed miserably. The lesson is 'never try'.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ... View Post
    that depends on the size of the plants and the light quality of the space. it's normal for plants to drop leaves all the time if those leaves do not have access to light.
    They not to big man think it is just the flowering now will try and get some pics up

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    don't add nitrogen if your flowering has begun! weed needs minimal N for flowering. yellowing of mature leaves from the bottom up is normal! if ALL the leaves begin to yellow then you've got trouble. cheers ...

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    i have just started my fourth week of flower, yellowin leaves also! have u good temps?? because my temps were bad! causin yellowin of leaves too!

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    mine started fourth week of flower today! yellowin leaves also!

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    Quote Originally Posted by wilbur View Post
    don't add nitrogen if your flowering has begun! weed needs minimal N for flowering. yellowing of mature leaves from the bottom up is normal! if ALL the leaves begin to yellow then you've got trouble. cheers ...
    Of course you add nitrogen if the plant starts yellowing from the bottom up. weed needs MORE N during flower than it does during veg. the only thing that changes during flower in ratio terms is that the plant will use more P. but it will actually use more of everything else too.

    You increase the concentrations of everything during flower. P is also not that important... the plant likes to have lots of available P around though, but in relative terms not as much P is needed as people believe. This is because in an outdoor setting P is very easily locked out, and farmers discovered that pouring in SUPER amounts of P resulted in bumper harvests... 2+2... eh? However the only reason the super P worked for a while is because the organic P sitting in the soil was actually locked out and sitting in an unavailable form. So in essence what the farmers did by pouring in the super P was ruin the land for crop farming. Now the fields need to be left for a year in the hope the rain washes away the toxicity enough to grow again. High P cancels out iron also, which leads to all sorts of nutrient transport problems.

    where people get confused is confusing organic nutrients with synthetic ones. Synthetic nutrients are ready to be taken up and are usually always available. the plant knows how rich the medium is in nutrients and will grow accordingly. So if the medium is OK for nutes but not very rich then the plant will grow and reach medium potential. If the plant senses that it has an abundance of everything it needs then it will grow bigger, and reach full potential.

    This is also why organically grown plants will still be green but be much smaller than a plant grown around an abundance of synthetic nutrients. Also one of the reasons why hydro plants are much bigger than soil too. In hydro the nutrients don't need to turn up (through osmosis and transpiration) or be found (through the roots growing and bumping into them) as they are always floating around the roots ready to be taken as and when the plant needs them.

    Plants look at the medium like a huge dinner plate... everything they need is on it and they simply select what they want like a buffet and leave the rest behind till later. So, so long as there are enough available ions for the plant to take up it really doesn't matter how many nutrient ions are sitting in the medium.

    Low light will also cause yellowing from the bottom up as the chlorophyll have no access to light so start to die off. However this shouldn't happen en masse. If it is slow then it is chlorophyll death through low light conditions. If it happens fast then it's most likely an N thing.

    IMO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ... View Post
    Of course you add nitrogen if the plant starts yellowing from the bottom up. weed needs MORE N during flower than it does during veg. the only thing that changes during flower in ratio terms is that the plant will use more P. but it will actually use more of everything else too.

    You increase the concentrations of everything during flower. P is also not that important... the plant likes to have lots of available P around though, but in relative terms not as much P is needed as people believe. This is because in an outdoor setting P is very easily locked out, and farmers discovered that pouring in SUPER amounts of P resulted in bumper harvests... 2+2... eh? However the only reason the super P worked for a while is because the organic P sitting in the soil was actually locked out and sitting in an unavailable form. So in essence what the farmers did by pouring in the super P was ruin the land for crop farming. Now the fields need to be left for a year in the hope the rain washes away the toxicity enough to grow again. High P cancels out iron also, which leads to all sorts of nutrient transport problems.

    where people get confused is confusing organic nutrients with synthetic ones. Synthetic nutrients are ready to be taken up and are usually always available. the plant knows how rich the medium is in nutrients and will grow accordingly. So if the medium is OK for nutes but not very rich then the plant will grow and reach medium potential. If the plant senses that it has an abundance of everything it needs then it will grow bigger, and reach full potential.

    This is also why organically grown plants will still be green but be much smaller than a plant grown around an abundance of synthetic nutrients. Also one of the reasons why hydro plants are much bigger than soil too. In hydro the nutrients don't need to turn up (through osmosis and transpiration) or be found (through the roots growing and bumping into them) as they are always floating around the roots ready to be taken as and when the plant needs them.

    Plants look at the medium like a huge dinner plate... everything they need is on it and they simply select what they want like a buffet and leave the rest behind till later. So, so long as there are enough available ions for the plant to take up it really doesn't matter how many nutrient ions are sitting in the medium.

    Low light will also cause yellowing from the bottom up as the chlorophyll have no access to light so start to die off. However this shouldn't happen en masse. If it is slow then it is chlorophyll death through low light conditions. If it happens fast then it's most likely an N thing.

    IMO.
    Very good point seeing as what you are talking about happened to me not to long ago except for the fact that i couldn't get much help from here because i couldn't get any pics up at the moment and they are much smaller and not in budding stage,But im not really sure if it was the light or the (N) Deficiency seeing as i fixed both probs in the same day so id be sure i eliminated the prob at the source asap,and it did and now they are looking amazing and are starting to stink like the dirty little girls im raising them to be lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by stonedasfuck View Post
    i have just started my fourth week of flower, yellowin leaves also! have u good temps?? because my temps were bad! causin yellowin of leaves too!
    My temps have been good man , had a little trouble in mid veg but they recovered.

  19. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by ... View Post
    Of course you add nitrogen if the plant starts yellowing from the bottom up. weed needs MORE N during flower than it does during veg. the only thing that changes during flower in ratio terms is that the plant will use more P. but it will actually use more of everything else too.

    You increase the concentrations of everything during flower. P is also not that important... the plant likes to have lots of available P around though, but in relative terms not as much P is needed as people believe. This is because in an outdoor setting P is very easily locked out, and farmers discovered that pouring in SUPER amounts of P resulted in bumper harvests... 2+2... eh? However the only reason the super P worked for a while is because the organic P sitting in the soil was actually locked out and sitting in an unavailable form. So in essence what the farmers did by pouring in the super P was ruin the land for crop farming. Now the fields need to be left for a year in the hope the rain washes away the toxicity enough to grow again. High P cancels out iron also, which leads to all sorts of nutrient transport problems.

    where people get confused is confusing organic nutrients with synthetic ones. Synthetic nutrients are ready to be taken up and are usually always available. the plant knows how rich the medium is in nutrients and will grow accordingly. So if the medium is OK for nutes but not very rich then the plant will grow and reach medium potential. If the plant senses that it has an abundance of everything it needs then it will grow bigger, and reach full potential.

    This is also why organically grown plants will still be green but be much smaller than a plant grown around an abundance of synthetic nutrients. Also one of the reasons why hydro plants are much bigger than soil too. In hydro the nutrients don't need to turn up (through osmosis and transpiration) or be found (through the roots growing and bumping into them) as they are always floating around the roots ready to be taken as and when the plant needs them.

    Plants look at the medium like a huge dinner plate... everything they need is on it and they simply select what they want like a buffet and leave the rest behind till later. So, so long as there are enough available ions for the plant to take up it really doesn't matter how many nutrient ions are sitting in the medium.

    Low light will also cause yellowing from the bottom up as the chlorophyll have no access to light so start to die off. However this shouldn't happen en masse. If it is slow then it is chlorophyll death through low light conditions. If it happens fast then it's most likely an N thing.

    IMO.
    dude that is some impresive shit , i will double up the dosage in the morning . thanks again !

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