Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: Yellowing of leaves 3 weeks into flower

  1. #11

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    1,936
    Thanks
    357
    Been Thanked: 1,348 Times

    Default

    i have just started my fourth week of flower, yellowin leaves also! have u good temps?? because my temps were bad! causin yellowin of leaves too!

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    1,936
    Thanks
    357
    Been Thanked: 1,348 Times

    Default

    mine started fourth week of flower today! yellowin leaves also!

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    186
    Thanks
    21
    Been Thanked: 66 Times

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wilbur View Post
    don't add nitrogen if your flowering has begun! weed needs minimal N for flowering. yellowing of mature leaves from the bottom up is normal! if ALL the leaves begin to yellow then you've got trouble. cheers ...
    Of course you add nitrogen if the plant starts yellowing from the bottom up. weed needs MORE N during flower than it does during veg. the only thing that changes during flower in ratio terms is that the plant will use more P. but it will actually use more of everything else too.

    You increase the concentrations of everything during flower. P is also not that important... the plant likes to have lots of available P around though, but in relative terms not as much P is needed as people believe. This is because in an outdoor setting P is very easily locked out, and farmers discovered that pouring in SUPER amounts of P resulted in bumper harvests... 2+2... eh? However the only reason the super P worked for a while is because the organic P sitting in the soil was actually locked out and sitting in an unavailable form. So in essence what the farmers did by pouring in the super P was ruin the land for crop farming. Now the fields need to be left for a year in the hope the rain washes away the toxicity enough to grow again. High P cancels out iron also, which leads to all sorts of nutrient transport problems.

    where people get confused is confusing organic nutrients with synthetic ones. Synthetic nutrients are ready to be taken up and are usually always available. the plant knows how rich the medium is in nutrients and will grow accordingly. So if the medium is OK for nutes but not very rich then the plant will grow and reach medium potential. If the plant senses that it has an abundance of everything it needs then it will grow bigger, and reach full potential.

    This is also why organically grown plants will still be green but be much smaller than a plant grown around an abundance of synthetic nutrients. Also one of the reasons why hydro plants are much bigger than soil too. In hydro the nutrients don't need to turn up (through osmosis and transpiration) or be found (through the roots growing and bumping into them) as they are always floating around the roots ready to be taken as and when the plant needs them.

    Plants look at the medium like a huge dinner plate... everything they need is on it and they simply select what they want like a buffet and leave the rest behind till later. So, so long as there are enough available ions for the plant to take up it really doesn't matter how many nutrient ions are sitting in the medium.

    Low light will also cause yellowing from the bottom up as the chlorophyll have no access to light so start to die off. However this shouldn't happen en masse. If it is slow then it is chlorophyll death through low light conditions. If it happens fast then it's most likely an N thing.

    IMO.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Have no CLUE
    Posts
    125
    Thanks
    6
    Been Thanked: 4 Times

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ... View Post
    Of course you add nitrogen if the plant starts yellowing from the bottom up. weed needs MORE N during flower than it does during veg. the only thing that changes during flower in ratio terms is that the plant will use more P. but it will actually use more of everything else too.

    You increase the concentrations of everything during flower. P is also not that important... the plant likes to have lots of available P around though, but in relative terms not as much P is needed as people believe. This is because in an outdoor setting P is very easily locked out, and farmers discovered that pouring in SUPER amounts of P resulted in bumper harvests... 2+2... eh? However the only reason the super P worked for a while is because the organic P sitting in the soil was actually locked out and sitting in an unavailable form. So in essence what the farmers did by pouring in the super P was ruin the land for crop farming. Now the fields need to be left for a year in the hope the rain washes away the toxicity enough to grow again. High P cancels out iron also, which leads to all sorts of nutrient transport problems.

    where people get confused is confusing organic nutrients with synthetic ones. Synthetic nutrients are ready to be taken up and are usually always available. the plant knows how rich the medium is in nutrients and will grow accordingly. So if the medium is OK for nutes but not very rich then the plant will grow and reach medium potential. If the plant senses that it has an abundance of everything it needs then it will grow bigger, and reach full potential.

    This is also why organically grown plants will still be green but be much smaller than a plant grown around an abundance of synthetic nutrients. Also one of the reasons why hydro plants are much bigger than soil too. In hydro the nutrients don't need to turn up (through osmosis and transpiration) or be found (through the roots growing and bumping into them) as they are always floating around the roots ready to be taken as and when the plant needs them.

    Plants look at the medium like a huge dinner plate... everything they need is on it and they simply select what they want like a buffet and leave the rest behind till later. So, so long as there are enough available ions for the plant to take up it really doesn't matter how many nutrient ions are sitting in the medium.

    Low light will also cause yellowing from the bottom up as the chlorophyll have no access to light so start to die off. However this shouldn't happen en masse. If it is slow then it is chlorophyll death through low light conditions. If it happens fast then it's most likely an N thing.

    IMO.
    Very good point seeing as what you are talking about happened to me not to long ago except for the fact that i couldn't get much help from here because i couldn't get any pics up at the moment and they are much smaller and not in budding stage,But im not really sure if it was the light or the (N) Deficiency seeing as i fixed both probs in the same day so id be sure i eliminated the prob at the source asap,and it did and now they are looking amazing and are starting to stink like the dirty little girls im raising them to be lol

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    18
    Thanks
    7
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stonedasfuck View Post
    i have just started my fourth week of flower, yellowin leaves also! have u good temps?? because my temps were bad! causin yellowin of leaves too!
    My temps have been good man , had a little trouble in mid veg but they recovered.

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    18
    Thanks
    7
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ... View Post
    Of course you add nitrogen if the plant starts yellowing from the bottom up. weed needs MORE N during flower than it does during veg. the only thing that changes during flower in ratio terms is that the plant will use more P. but it will actually use more of everything else too.

    You increase the concentrations of everything during flower. P is also not that important... the plant likes to have lots of available P around though, but in relative terms not as much P is needed as people believe. This is because in an outdoor setting P is very easily locked out, and farmers discovered that pouring in SUPER amounts of P resulted in bumper harvests... 2+2... eh? However the only reason the super P worked for a while is because the organic P sitting in the soil was actually locked out and sitting in an unavailable form. So in essence what the farmers did by pouring in the super P was ruin the land for crop farming. Now the fields need to be left for a year in the hope the rain washes away the toxicity enough to grow again. High P cancels out iron also, which leads to all sorts of nutrient transport problems.

    where people get confused is confusing organic nutrients with synthetic ones. Synthetic nutrients are ready to be taken up and are usually always available. the plant knows how rich the medium is in nutrients and will grow accordingly. So if the medium is OK for nutes but not very rich then the plant will grow and reach medium potential. If the plant senses that it has an abundance of everything it needs then it will grow bigger, and reach full potential.

    This is also why organically grown plants will still be green but be much smaller than a plant grown around an abundance of synthetic nutrients. Also one of the reasons why hydro plants are much bigger than soil too. In hydro the nutrients don't need to turn up (through osmosis and transpiration) or be found (through the roots growing and bumping into them) as they are always floating around the roots ready to be taken as and when the plant needs them.

    Plants look at the medium like a huge dinner plate... everything they need is on it and they simply select what they want like a buffet and leave the rest behind till later. So, so long as there are enough available ions for the plant to take up it really doesn't matter how many nutrient ions are sitting in the medium.

    Low light will also cause yellowing from the bottom up as the chlorophyll have no access to light so start to die off. However this shouldn't happen en masse. If it is slow then it is chlorophyll death through low light conditions. If it happens fast then it's most likely an N thing.

    IMO.
    dude that is some impresive shit , i will double up the dosage in the morning . thanks again !

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Similar Threads

  1. yellowing of leaves in flower stage.....
    By uparoundthebend in forum Indoor Cannabis Growing
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-04-11, 06:30 PM
  2. Yellowing leaves 5 weeks in to flowering
    By duras in forum Cannabis Infirmary
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 03-01-11, 06:42 AM
  3. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 10-03-10, 01:44 PM
  4. yellowing leaves 6 weeks into flower
    By pandylad in forum General Cannabis Growing
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 19-11-08, 03:34 PM
  5. Leaves yellowing at 3 weeks old
    By Zips in forum Cannabis Infirmary
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-04-08, 09:02 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


THCtalk.com Disclaimer - You must be over 18 years old to view/use this site .THCtalk.com does not encourage growing Cannabis or possessing Cannabis. Learning how to grow Cannabis instructions should be for educational purposes only. All Information contained in this web site is for: Historical reference, Scientific reference and Educational purposes only. Visitors to this website are advised against breaking the law as It is illegal to smoke, grow, or possess cannabis in the UK and some US States