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Thread: John Innes Composts Explained!

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    Thumbs up John Innes Composts Explained!

    John Innes Composts

    John Innes is not a manufacturer of compost, they are a range of composts developed at the John Innes Institute, named after John Innes, a nineteenth century property and land dealer in the City of London. On his death in 1904 he bequeathed his fortune and estate to the improvement of horticulture by experiments and research. The result was the establishment of the John Innes Horticultural Research Institute initially at Merton in Surrey, but now located at Norwich.

    The essence of these composts from today's point of view is that they are based on loam. There are several formulae, depending on the use of the compost: JI Seed Compost is for sowing seeds; JI Cutting Compost is for rooting cuttings; JI No 1 Potting Compost is for pricking out young plants; JI No 2 Potting Compost is for potting on; JI No 3 Potting Compost is for established plants and shrubs; and JI Ericaceous Compost is for plants which cannot tolerate lime.


    The Ingredients The function of each of the ingredients in John Innes is briefly as follows:-
    Loam

    Loam is the most important ingredient in the compost as it provides the main "body" of the compost. It also forms the base of plant nutrition by supplying clay, which has a cation and anion exchange capacity, that is, it absorbs and releases plant nutrients as required. Loam also contains essential micro-elements and some organic matter which provides a slow release of nitrogen to the plant.

    Peat

    Sphagnum Moss Peat in the John Innes Compost increases the total porosity and improves both the aeration and the water-retaining capacity. Peat decomposes slowly into humus.

    Sand
    The coarse sand or grit is used as a physical conditioner to allow excess water to drain from the compost and thus prevent water-logging. It also helps to provide stability for larger plants. Fertiliser

    The compound fertiliser in John Innes Compost provides a wide spectrum of plant nutrients needed for balanced growth, including :-


    • NITROGEN - for top growth
    • PHOSPHATES - for root growth
    • POTASH - for flowering and fruiting
    • TRACE ELEMENTS - for optimal growth, colour and (where appropriate) flavour
    Nutrients are typically sufficient for 1-2 months of growing, after which time additional proprietary feed should be given.
    The mixes All ingredients of the main constituents are by volume.

    JOHN INNES SEED COMPOST:
    The traditional mix for sowing almost any type of seed, with sufficient nutrient for early development. May also be used for rooting soft cuttings.
    2 sterilised Loam
    1 Peat
    1 Sand
    The loam and peat is put through in 9mm (3/8 in) sieve.
    For each cubic metre of mix, add
    0.6kg ground limestone
    1.2kg superphosphate

    JOHN INNES CUTTING COMPOST: 1 Loam
    2 Peat
    1 Sand

    No added fertiliser

    JOHN INNES POTTING COMPOST No.1: for pricking out or potting-up young seedlings or rooted cuttings. This composts has a carefully balanced nutrient content to suit most young plants.
    7 Loam
    3 Peat
    2 Sand
    For each cubic metre of mix, add
    0.6kg ground limestone
    1.2kg hoof and horn meal
    1.2kg superphosphate
    0.6kg potassium sulphate

    JOHN INNES POTTING COMPOST No.2
    for general potting of most house plants and vegetable plants into medium size pots or boxes. Contains double the amount of nutrient in JI No 1 to suit established plants.
    7 Loam
    3 Peat
    2 Sand
    each cubic metre of mix, add 0.6kg ground limestone
    2.4kg hoof and horn meal
    2.4kg superphosphate
    1.2kg potassium sulphate


    JOHN INNES POTTING COMPOST No.3 a richer mixture for final re-potting of gross feeding vegetable plants and for mature foliage plants and shrubs in interior planters or outdoor containers.
    7 Loam
    3 Peat
    2 Sand
    each cubic metre of mix, add 0.6kg ground limestone
    3.6kg hoof and horn meal
    3.6kg superphosphate
    1.8kg potassium sulphate

    JOHN INNES ERICACEOUS COMPOST:
    2 Loam
    1 Peat
    1 Sand
    To each cubic metre of mix, add
    0.6kg flowers of sulphur
    1.2kg superphosphate

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    I must admit, I did always wonder how lots of different brands seemed to have a stake in JI. Now I know. Cheers Ik. Just a shame a lot of manufacturers don't say how much JI they use when they say "contains JI", sometimes I think they just put a teaspoon in a 60l bag and get away with false marketing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bonsaiman View Post
    I must admit, I did always wonder how lots of different brands seemed to have a stake in JI. Now I know. Cheers Ik. Just a shame a lot of manufacturers don't say how much JI they use when they say "contains JI", sometimes I think they just put a teaspoon in a 60l bag and get away with false marketing.
    No prob's mate, i guess you could be right. Who knows hey mate, all i do know is soil containing JI is damn good stuff.

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    One of the ingredients that appears in all but ericaceous compost is ground limestone (lime), usually in the form of burnt and then finely ground seashells.

    The effect of putting most nutes into compost is to send it acidic and lock up the nutes into the soil making them unavailable to the plant. The acidic soil effectively kills the good bactreria that act on the nutes, the nutes are normally broken down into "useful" (available) food for the plants. Lime increases the Ph of the soil back to neutral (7.0) and this provides a nice medium for the bacteria to thrive.

    The Hydrponic growers seem to be more "tech wise" with Ph meters but a cheap Ph meter designed for use in soil is only £3-£5 on fleabay (or Greens). I would put a Ph meter up there with the lights and fans as a "needed" tool for succesful growing.
    Not older than dirt but I can remember when it was "patent pending"

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    I found that levington john innes seedling has worked good for my 5

    Its cheap around £5 a bag not sure what LTR though i think its 60l

    check focus,homebase and b&q for them
    Quote Originally Posted by wert View Post
    i wonder if it will leave you a note ''dear john.....'' when it trundles off to the neighbors house that is growing with a 600w light instead of your 400w.........sneaky little ..........
    Fathers nearly silent fan and fillter modClick here

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    Wonderfully informative post!

    thank you very much for this lkdj2003

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    GEORGE (05-04-19)

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    yea thanks for the post, very helpfull
    after watching Montys last Grow diary i think i might give the old JI myself

    check her out
    Martain mean green ---->

    not bad for just soil and tomato food really eh ?
    Last edited by b.t.y; 25-08-09 at 07:53 PM.

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  13. #8
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    as a 1st time grower who knew zilch, my babies went from real lousy compost, to a 50/50 topsoil/miracle grow compost and then on a final repott. Under sagely advice from www.thctalk.com, i went John inns no3 + perlite 60/40%.

    I found that my plants absolutely flourished. it was so damn good it instantly sent my OUTSIDE potted5 foot sativa into flower, well before the sativa planted in the ground and another mainly indica strain, potted. all 3 plants born at exactly the same time. wasn't even 12/12, just august daylight! mad eh?

    since then and under 12/12 my baby has absolutely bloomed in ji, the leaves have turned a more healthy deep green. all previous yellowing ceased, and new growth blossomed.

    For me, Its now JI from here on in. i thoroughly reccomend it. great price too

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    i dont like john innes, when it dries out the pots still really heavy because of all the sand in it.. puts the heft gauge outa wak
    .. a tipple made it topple and
    a nipple put a stop to all.

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    what are the perfect nutes for using JI? Based on a 250w CFL and based in the uk?

    cheers guys
    frost

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