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Thread: Time to switch nutes???

  1. #1

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    Default Time to switch nutes???

    I'm sure this has been asked over and over but kinda like finding my socks I can't lol. Just started a tray of White Russian and they germed for 2 days and then into the rockwool and balls. The light has been on for 18 hrs for 4 days and I turned it down to 12 this morning, When should I switch to flower nutes, I am using sensi perfect PH I think but may switch. My very first grow of this strain stretched a massive amount and am trying to keep this one under control lol. Thanks for any help!! Oh and just one more question!!! lol. I have a tray of White Domina that is in its 4th week of flower and my TDS is 607 @ .5 and it rises by about 5 a day. Does that mean I should lower the amount of nutes added? It seems kinda low after reading guys are at like a 1000 at 4 weeks. PH is a steady 5.8 BTW.

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    when you see the first pistles

    M

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    Default Time to switch nutes???

    The answer to your first question is too add flower nutes when you start to see small flowers form. Usually between 7/14 days of changing photoperiod.

    Not sure on your second question as I don't quite know tds..

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    hi mate, rather than quoting TDS total dissolved solids, could you quote in EC or CF.. more people will be able to help you
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    Sorry the EC is 1.2 I think lol. It is actually staying steady or rising by a very small amount. Is this still not a bit low for a plant in its 4th week. And they just started to show pistles at nodes. I have been adding PH perfect Sensi flower for a week now but also a bit of grow that has a high nitrogen content. 50ml of a&b sensi and 50ml of part a grow from another supplier in a hundred liter res. no issues at all as far as plant appearance goes. Thier beutiful !!!!

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    Usually flowers start or become available earlier when you already swithced the NPK ratio from veg to flower. Light alone will trigger the process, but why make the plants struggle to do it. Give them what they want and need, I switch to flower nutes as soon as I put them into flower. I might give them a bit more N in first bucket first week of flower, but after that it is just regular flower routine.

    The NPK ratio has more to do with budding plants then light, but both will trigger it in plants. I would switch it before first flowers, but that is me because I have plants waiting to get into flower room and I need them budding sooner then later.

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    Personally, I keep mine on Grow for a week, then 1/2 grow and 1/2 bloom, then full Bloom on week three. I've seen people who switch to bloom on day 1, and people who switch on day 14, never noticed any real difference in their yields tbh. I do what I do just because of the general consensus, somewhere in between

    Same as flushing, alot of people do it slightly different with the same end result.
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    The answer to your first question is too add flower nutes when you start to see small flowers form. Usually between 7/14 days of changing photoperiod.
    So my tray of White Domina is behind schedule then, I just saw pistles and they are 3 weeks into 12/12. Thats sad lol. photo.jpg These are 3.5 weeks from seed and 2.5 weeks at 12/12, so a little concerned that nute levels are a bit low but again they are staying pretty steady. I do not top up res but change every 6-7 days. Should I be concerned? If these questions are real dumb I'm sorry but this only my third tray of hydro.

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    Your nutrient level is dictated by the plant and the type of system you are using.
    I cant make out if you are in DWC, NFT, Flood & drain etc.

    Your plant looks a little pale, so if you are feeding with an EC of 1.2, I am guessing you are in a flood & drain setup (Wilma maybe?). If so, the "safe maximum" EC in this type of setup is around 2.0

    If however you are in NFT or DWC, then 1.2 is more like the safe max EC.
    (I say safe max because this is the level I am happy recommending people use in these setups. Above these levels can result in nute burn but rarely at these levels for flowering plants)

    On the nute issue. I use AN Sensi and am happy to say you can switch with these nutes early because they have good levels of N in the Bloom feed.
    Usually, in the first 2 weeks of flower, as the plant stretches and grows very fast, it needs a high amount of N. Often people get yellowing around week 3 of flower because of switching to bloom nutes too early.

    As you can see with the responses above, if you are careful, you can change nutes on the day of flip but I prefer 7 to 10 days into flower, it depends when I am due to change the res.

    Hope there is something there that helps
    W
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    Thanks Woody! I'm confused as to what type of system also lol. I have a thread called "So what is it?" in the DIY section. Basically it is a flood and drain setup that I have started to leave the pump on 24/7. The plants are in net pots with no substrate below just air or water depending on pump. I built it to be kinda modular and have 3 to better use two areas of the shed and can move them. I did wonder about the paleness but also pic was taken before I added a bit of grow part a which had a pretty high nitrogen content, not sensi BTW and they have darkened a bit but the light makes them look lighter as well. It was actually the other tray I was curiuos about as these girls have been fed sensi bloom for a couple of weeks now. The nutes seem steady enough and are rising just a bit with no top up. I change the res every 6-7 days and they are due tomorrow. I have noticed that for the first time in 4 grows (well 3.5, 4th just started) that the PH is dropping and that has never happened. It usaually goes up never down. I can only assume its the sensi bloom that is the reason. My PH is an issue as I believe my water contains a buffer of sorts and its hard to bring down when refilling. I never add or top up just refill. I'll post another pic of the girls soon shhh their sleeping now lol!

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    I'm using Jack's Professional Hydro and Cal-NIT combo, ordered a 5lb bucket of each. Im using 1/8TSP p/gal in veg and 1/4TSP p/gal in flower, it's working wonderful right now. Nothing else, just modify the Cal-Nit for your stages and the same two can be used for the whole plant life.

    If it keeps up this will be my last nutrient purchase for let's estimate 10+ years LOL.

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    Hi again fella.
    The ph dropping when in flower is caused by the plants increased uptake of Potassium is the culprit.
    When a plant takes on potassium ions, it releases ions of Hydrogen and since ph is actually a measure of "potential for hydrogen", this makes the substrate more acidic, hense: lowers ph and is quite normal.
    In veg, the plant uptakes Nitrogen ions in larger quantities and releases hydroxil ions, this raises ph.
    SO in veg, it is quite normal to see a rising ph, in bloom, it is often a falling ph within the root zone.
    Different nutrients respond slightly differently.

    I dont often get this, probably because I use Liiquid Silicon in flower, which raises ph.
    I rarely suffer ph fluctuations of more than 0.1 over a couple or 3 days using AN Sensi. NOT the ph perfect I should add, I am still using old stock.

    And tonysuperlemon, go advertise elsewhere please.
    You have added nothing to this thread except flaunt your wares.
    W

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    Thanks Woody! I appreciate the help! Like I said Im a newb and all the info is great and I'm sure you have said this before somewhere else. It must get tiring lol. Should I add potassium or just continue to adjust, and it is a very small adjustment of PH up like a teaspoon. And I suppose different strains would have different needs. I will read your nutes post again.

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    personally i use GHE flora series

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