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Thread: Lighting Tech

  1. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by Valentina View Post
    Gardro, I would love to see a Talk review on the Budmaster lamps. There are people here who know heck of a lot more than I do, like about wavelengths and Kelvins and colour temperatures and watts and such. And some 101 level info on the rise and fall of the blurple would be really good.

    The Budmasters are a bit pricey to buy, but there's been no need for maintenance, no change of anything, no broken anything. It just works.

    My one single lamp has been the rock of my grows. I know that blurple is going out of fashion, however, I have had it about 3 years now, with the past year or so being in constant use.

    It has never missed a beat.

    The lamp keeps my plants squat, which is great given my limited space. I am interested in getting a "G.O.D." lamp from them at some point, all for the blurple LEDs and solid reliability.
    I know they work and they work well, a friend on a different forum lightaddict used them . They do have a life expectancy tho val , after around two years of use the par readings drastically drop. But the continues to work and is still bright as hell. I'm sure they use the osram ssl80 diodes and say you can't find them in other lamps which is a lie . This is my first time using led lights to grow in around 20years of growing and I'm impressed with my lights from invisible sun and was a complete hps addict. I've watched many a led grow using older tech and never been impressed and neither have the users , reluctantly admitted this after switching back to hps or cdm lights


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  3. #62

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    Quote Originally Posted by gardro View Post
    Oh this was the CV drivers ( the 48b ). That might explain.

    Imo its not the correct driver for the board




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    I used that driver and couldn't get over 200w so you've done very well indeed




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  5. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by gardro View Post
    I used that driver and couldn't get over 200w so you've done very well indeed




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    Gonna keep it plugged in to the meter for a few hours as it has risen since I did the alteration,it started at 207w and went up to 227w over the space of about an hour.
    It's nice to be nice.

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  7. #64

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    Quote Originally Posted by gardro View Post
    I can look into a model for you Valentina, my pleasure. Which GOD model are you interested in?
    Hi Gardro. I was just looking at the G.O.D. 2 or 4, I am not in a rush personally though. It's just that mine (an XG, now discontinued) keeps my plants short but also translates into absolute unpredictability when the plant stretches, compared against others data from HPS.


    Quote Originally Posted by British green View Post
    I know they work and they work well, a friend on a different forum lightaddict used them . They do have a life expectancy tho val , after around two years of use the par readings drastically drop. But the continues to work and is still bright as hell. I'm sure they use the osram ssl80 diodes and say you can't find them in other lamps which is a lie . This is my first time using led lights to grow in around 20years of growing and I'm impressed with my lights from invisible sun and was a complete hps addict. I've watched many a led grow using older tech and never been impressed and neither have the users , reluctantly admitted this after switching back to hps or cdm lights
    Thanks for the heads up, British Green, and your insight as well as experience with HPS/CDM. Considering heat, power, reliability etc I am sticking with LED, most likely with the same brand. For now the lamp is still good and if the PAR readings drop this year, great, I can use that for veg and get the G.O.D. for Bloom.
    Last edited by Valentina; 18-01-19 at 11:58 PM.
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    May we all cross the line safe and sound, time after time, everytime.


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  9. #65

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    Quote Originally Posted by Valentina View Post
    Hi Gardro. I was just looking at the G.O.D. 2 or 4, I am not in a rush personally though. It's just that mine (an XG, now discontinued) keeps my plants short but also translates into absolute unpredictability when the plant stretches, compared against others data from HPS.




    Thanks for the heads up, British Green, and your insight as well as experience with HPS/CDM. Considering heat, power, reliability etc I am sticking with LED, most likely with the same brand. For now the lamp is still good and if the PAR readings drop this year, great, I can use that for veg and get the G.O.D. for Bloom.
    Hi Valentina

    Can I ask if you've considered the Cropmaster series as from what I gather the GODs are being discontinued but still carry a price tag.

    Budmaster is now Cropmaster

    Those GOD lights are invariably high bay lights and many have said you have to hang them high.






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  11. #66

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    Hey Gardro,

    So at some point I’m thinking about upgrading my main flower room lights, and the HLG ISH265pro kits have my attention.

    Currently I run 2x 600w on digital ballasts in magnum/dominator xxxl hoods.
    I grow in a room with a scrog net at 1x2m with a RDWC underneath.
    I’m quite happy pulling 1gpw with this rig. But I want 1500g minimum.


    I’m thinking as a replacement 2x ISH265 2700k and 2x3000k so I can run the 3000k to finish the veg and fill the net then flick the 2700k on as well for the flower for a big finish.

    when I read all the paperwork, 2.8umols/w for the LED, 1.3umols/w on the HPS.
    Does this mean with the 4 265’s putting out about 1000w of light can I expect 2000g of bud? As the LED is roughly twice as efficient?

    Help!

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  13. #67

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    Quote Originally Posted by TomKing View Post
    Hey Gardro,

    So at some point I’m thinking about upgrading my main flower room lights, and the HLG ISH265pro kits have my attention.

    Currently I run 2x 600w on digital ballasts in magnum/dominator xxxl hoods.
    I grow in a room with a scrog net at 1x2m with a RDWC underneath.
    I’m quite happy pulling 1gpw with this rig. But I want 1500g minimum.


    I’m thinking as a replacement 2x ISH265 2700k and 2x3000k so I can run the 3000k to finish the veg and fill the net then flick the 2700k on as well for the flower for a big finish.

    when I read all the paperwork, 2.8umols/w for the LED, 1.3umols/w on the HPS.
    Does this mean with the 4 265’s putting out about 1000w of light can I expect 2000g of bud? As the LED is roughly twice as efficient?

    Help!
    Hi mate

    Sounds like you're well researched and ready to go

    Those efficacy numbers are right in theory so yes you can expect much more from a single watt of power. 1 gpw is no longer a target put it that way.

    In practice the numbers are not going to be as definitive but you will still be able to expect, probably 1.5gpw in an rdwc set up.

    Id say you'd be knocking on the door of 1.5-1.6 kilos

    Those dominator hoods are fantastic at directing the hps light down onto the canopy, leds do this naturally of course.

    The temperatures youve mentioned will work great. The 2700K is more flower specific as youve identified. The 3000K is warm white so good for seed to harvest. You could get some 3500K, also warm white, in there that would be better at veg and help flowering a bit more

    2700K + 3000K is a little red heavy

    2700K + 3500K is closer to having 3000K when combined.

    The colour always overlooked is green, which is more present in 3500K plus

    The green pentetrates far better than red or blue and is the reason hps has been so successful ( and why blurple leds have lacked something !)

    Im just harvesting now on buds grown under 3500K start to finish and i use 2 lots of the 250 kits






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  15. #68

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    Nice, I will take your advice on the 3500k panels and the green spectrum and thank for such a speedy response.

    Gonna rebuild the RDWC system first so better coverage with plants, but then I’m thinking light upgrade.

    Crazy tempted to do a side by side with a 600w HPS and 2x265’s... umm might be able to get the money past our lass if I do it half at a time! Hahaha

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  17. #69

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    Gardro mate you got any thoughts on UV and far red supplemental lighting? I'm looking at sorting the lights out in my PC case before my next grow - I'm going to stick with the 6 Q-series strips at the top, albeit with a driver upgrade (probably just to an LPF-40, since it's still a very small space I'm working in), and add in a pair of vertically mounted strips on each end of the case, one in each corner. Using only two strips each side will give me space for airflow fans in between them, and it will also give me space to add in some single diodes if I choose to. The sketch below should help the layout at least make sense.

    The strips I've got are a mix of 3000K and 4000K and the extra few I buy I'll maybe go 3500K because why not.

    I'm thinking of using my existing LPF-25D-36 driver to power the four corner strips along with two sets of 5 1W single colour diodes (so two parallel strings each with 2 strips and 5 singles) mostly just because I already have the unit. I already have a suitable heatsink I can cut in half and use for the 2 sets of 5 singles as well.

    This would give me something in the region of 35W from the strips lights above, 14W from the strip lights at the corners, and 6W of supplemental colours.

    If I do do that I need to choose the supplemental diodes. I'm thinking 1*380, 2*660 and 2*730 for each side and I'm actually looking at EPILED because I can get them on star PCBs dirt cheap, although I could use Cree X-lamps for better efficiency. Particularly the UV diodes, I've found the EPILED ones for £2 each which is way less than any other major manufacturers I can find. Might mean they're awful of course...

    Think the extra spectrum will add any value mate? A lot of the biology when it comes to photosynthesis and light spectra is way over my head sadly! Cheers in advance for any thoughts.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by thelastrebel View Post
    Gardro mate you got any thoughts on UV and far red supplemental lighting? I'm looking at sorting the lights out in my PC case before my next grow - I'm going to stick with the 6 Q-series strips at the top, albeit with a driver upgrade (probably just to an LPF-40, since it's still a very small space I'm working in), and add in a pair of vertically mounted strips on each end of the case, one in each corner. Using only two strips each side will give me space for airflow fans in between them, and it will also give me space to add in some single diodes if I choose to. The sketch below should help the layout at least make sense.

    The strips I've got are a mix of 3000K and 4000K and the extra few I buy I'll maybe go 3500K because why not.

    I'm thinking of using my existing LPF-25D-36 driver to power the four corner strips along with two sets of 5 1W single colour diodes (so two parallel strings each with 2 strips and 5 singles) mostly just because I already have the unit. I already have a suitable heatsink I can cut in half and use for the 2 sets of 5 singles as well.

    This would give me something in the region of 35W from the strips lights above, 14W from the strip lights at the corners, and 6W of supplemental colours.

    If I do do that I need to choose the supplemental diodes. I'm thinking 1*380, 2*660 and 2*730 for each side and I'm actually looking at EPILED because I can get them on star PCBs dirt cheap, although I could use Cree X-lamps for better efficiency. Particularly the UV diodes, I've found the EPILED ones for £2 each which is way less than any other major manufacturers I can find. Might mean they're awful of course...

    Think the extra spectrum will add any value mate? A lot of the biology when it comes to photosynthesis and light spectra is way over my head sadly! Cheers in advance for any thoughts.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	369586
    Hi mate, red 630nm, deep red 660nm and far red 730nm lighting is definitely a positive when it comes to flowering. Have a read of the Emerson Effect if you want some wider knowledge.

    I steer clear of UVa and UVb to be honest. The gains are marginal vs the risk to humans.

    Got to watch the cheaper Chinese leds which can emit UV due to poor manufacturing






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