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Thread: How to shoot decent pictures of your plants

  1. #1

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    Default How to shoot decent pictures of your plants

    There are so many BAD photos of gorgeous plants being posted, that I thought this might be helpful.

    I borrowed this from "Digital Photography School" - google it if you are interested..
    Much has been written on the topic of Macro photography for those photographers fortunate enough to own a DSLR with macro lenses - but what about if you own a compact point and shoot camera? Can you get great macro shots too?
    While the results achievable with a point and shoot camera in macro mode probably won’t compare with a DSLR with a purpose built macro lens I’ve still seen some remarkably good shots with compact cameras (all three shots in this post were taken with compact cameras). Here are a few tips to help you get the most out of yours:

    Select Macro Mode - this is a fairly obvious first step but I’m always surprised by how many digital camera owners haven’t explored the shooting modes that their camera has. Macro mode is generally symbolized with a little flower and when selected it will tell your camera that you want to focus on a subject closer to your lens than normal (the minimum distance allowed will vary from camera to camera - consult your instruction manual to find yours). Macro mode will also usually tell your camera to choose a large aperture so that your subject is in focus but the background is not.
    Use a Tripod - in macro photography a tripod can be particularly useful, even if you’re just shooting with a compact camera. Keeping your camera still not only improves your shots (getting rid of camera shake) but it allows you to play around with different settings without losing your composition.
    Aperture - once in macro mode some cameras will not allow you to make many other adjustments but if you are able to play with your aperture settings it can be well worthwhile to do so. As we’ve covered in our Aperture tutorials, the main thing that aperture impacts is the depth of field of your shots. Choose a small aperture (big number) if you want a large depth of field with everything in focus or a large aperture if you just want your main subject in focus. In macro photography you’ll probably want a shallow depth of field so select the largest aperture available.
    Focusing - I find that in macro photography it is helpful to have full control over focusing - especially when you have shallow depth of fields where it is all the more important to make sure the right part of your shot is in focus. If your camera allows manual focusing select this option and manually focus on the part of our subject that is the main point of interest.
    Composition - remember some of the basic rules of composition like the Rule of Thirds. Make sure your image has a main point of interest and place that focal point in a smart position in your image in order to draw the eye of your viewer. Try to select a non cluttered or simple background for your main subject so as it doesn’t compete with it visually.
    Flash - in many macro shots having some artificial light is important. The challenge with compact cameras is that most give you limited control of your flash. As a result choosing a good time of day when there is plenty of available light is probably your best bet. If you do need more light check to see if your camera allows you to pull back the level that your flash fires at. Alternatively you might like to try diffusing it in some way (tissue paper or cellotape over the flash for example). Another option might be to use some other source of artificial light or to invest in a reflector to help make the most of available light. Experiment with different methods of lighting your subject.
    Take Your Shot - once you have your shot lined up and in focus take your shot. Make sure once you’ve taken it to take a good look at it on your LCD, zooming in to make sure that your focusing is sharp. Try shooting at slightly different apertures, with different compositions and focusing on different points of your subject to see what works best.
    Macro Lens Attachments - some compact cameras actually have accessories available to help with macro/close up photography. These will enable you to enlarge your subject and/or decrease your minimum focal length. These might be worth investing in if you intend on doing a lot of macro work.
    Self Timer - (this point was added as a result of comments below - thanks team!) when using my DSLR for Macro work I tend to use a shutter cable release and tripod to make sure my shots are completely still (to eliminate the small amount of camera shake from pressing the shutter). Most compact cameras don’t have cable releases but a simple way around this is to use your camera’s self timer on it’s shortest time setting which will similarly mean you have no movement of your camera when taking your shot (if you’re taking notice of the ‘use a tripod’ tip above).
    PS: I’ve used the term ‘macro photography fairly loosely here. Technically ‘macro photography’ is actually when you produce an image where your subject is captured on your image sensor at life size (or bigger) with a 1:1 ratio.
    In the case of most (all?) compact cameras this is not achieved and in fact ‘close up’ photography would be a better description. However as most manufacturers call their close up mode ‘macro mode’ I’ve used the term for the purposes of this article.
    and I borrowed this from "karbosguide" this is VERY important to pay attention to, as lots of people tend to put their camera too close and end up with a very short depth of field.. which means the flower is blurry, but the leaves behind the flower are in focus. I think this is the most common problem with regards to pictures posted here at THCtalk.

    Minimum distance

    All cameras have a minimum distance. This is the shortest distance a lens can focus on. A traditional film camera can seldom get much closer to a motive than 40- 50 cm unless it has a special macro lens.
    A digital camera has an advantage in this area because the lens can be set to macro exposures so that the minimum distance can be adjusted right down to 20, 10, 5 or maybe just 1 cm ! In this way, the camera can take photographs of tiny things. The macro function is activated with a button, which can always be recognised by its flower symbol.
    If you are taking photographs with a distance less than the minimum distance of 50-60 cm, then the macro mode should be activated with a push on the button:

    You must remember to de-activate the macro function before taking pictures at a greater distance or otherwise it will take a very long time for the lens to focus.
    When you have selected macro mode then the lens is optimised to focusing at short distances. Some zoom cameras have, in fact, three focus modes so you can select super macro for focusing under the distance of 10 cm. When the lens works in macro mode, you can see it by the little flower on the LCD screen.
    Different degrees of macro

    You should be aware of the fact that some cameras can focus right down to a distance of just 1 cm. Others can go down to a 5, 10 or 20 cm distance. It has to be recommended that you choose a camera, which has good macro qualities because there are so many good subject opportunities within short distances.
    Camera
    Focus in macro mode
    Canon A70
    5 cm - 46 cm
    Sony DSC-V1
    10 cm - 40 cm
    Fujifilm S7000
    10 cm - 80 cm
    1 cm - 20 cm
    OlympusC-8080
    20 cm - 80 cm
    5 cm - 40 cm
    Minolta A2
    13 cm - > 60 cm
    Nikon 8700
    3 cm - 40 cm
    I hope this has been helpful and if anyone else has any tips please bring them forward
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Please do not use "image hosting" websites to host your grow pics. It's unsafe for you the uploader and us the viewers. Stick to using thctalk as your image host, it's free and won't get deleted.

    To find out how to use thctalk galleries to host your image, click here to view my illustrated & easy to follow instructions.

    When shooting photos of your plants, do they always come out blurry? Check out the plant photography thread here. Feel free to add to it if you have any tips.

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  3. #2

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    that's a good post judas.

    the main problem that i notice with a lot of pics on here is the orange-yness (lol) from people taking pics while their hps (or similar) is on. i think that can ruin an otherwise great photo.

    my photography is far from perfect however so i'm going to remember this post for my next shoot

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    nice shit.. should be a stiky

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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by allahu_akbar View Post
    nice shit.. should be a stiky
    I agree great post Judas and this thread is now a sticky.

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    Might I add that when using small cheaper cameras (and phone cameras) its often better to shoot from a distance and crop the image rather than shoot close up and fill the screen.

    This is because phone cameras often have a fixed focal distance of 1-2 meters and shots taken any closer become increasingly blurry. If you're trying to get an image of a small object and detail is important(i.e. fan wiring/ male female identification) it's easy to think that closer is better because more of the object is on screen. It's not.
    Move away till the image is in better focus and then use photo software to crop it. You should notice that you have more detail than the close up shot.

    Counter-intuitive, but true.
    200 watt hempy/soil comparison here

    How I built my stealth cabinet here.

    Thrilling reads I assure you.

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    Also, most camers have a WB (white balance) feature. This compensates for the yellow/blue hue on some photos when taken with artifical lights. Else, use the colour temperature feauture.
    remember folks, digital film is free and i often take several dozen shots all at different settings so i can get the best pics.
    Warning: Contains Bitterness And Resentment.

    I want to die like my grandad, peacefully in his sleep, not screaming and yelling like the passengers in his car..

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    An example of incorrect white balance.



    Looks good though doesn't it?
    Taken in the cannabis college before the fire.

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    A very good budget priced camera for super macro shots and macros is Canon A470 currently on offer at Argos for £50, its exceptionally well reviewed even at its normally higher price The older A460 (they added more megapixels since) produced these in totally amateur photographer hands







    Last edited by Nephilim; 27-02-09 at 03:02 PM.

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    Default I agree about bad shots of beautiful buds, but

    Not everyone really cares about perfect photos of things, none alone buds. Kinda glad not everyone knows how to do it, or just doesn't care to do it correctly. This makes me look like a better photographer!! haha.... Just yesterday I went to get some of my Medicine for my disease. My choice for that week was a Sativa burmise OG, and Sour Afghani, Pretty good looking bud. Here are some shots I did as a test to see if it's something I want to take time, and do it correctly. Shoot posters, and such.... Let me know what you think.
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    Default Make them larger?

    How do I make them larger? I have tried many things in my lightroom! There sizes are much too small! Thanks everyone!

    Newbie,

    TY
    TMMPhotography

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