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View Full Version : Journal: Northern Lights (Autos) [Including grow area plans] NOT FOR STEALTH GROWS



drdaemon
27-09-13, 07:39 AM
Hey all this is just a small journal of my first experience(s) growing autos;

Important: I have 4 seeds (was a pack of 5, more on this later), I will be doing this process 4 times over, each time improving the article a little I may get some more seeds and do it a few more times than that as well :). However this does mean that the first run this article is going to be a bit skeleton ;-)

The base ingredients for this project are as follows:

NOTE: This will get updated as I proceed as there will be some basic things added for humidity/temp control (with instructions!)



Soils: BioBizz Light Mix, BioBizz Full Mix
Nutrients: BioBizz Bio Bloom, BioBizz Bio Grow
Pots: 15 Litre round black pots
Lights: (125W) Dual Spectrum CFL's
Wall sheeting: Total Blackout Sheeting (2M width) / 80% reflectivity index
Other tools: Fine mist spray bottle, Disposable gloves, Staple gun,
Seeds: Vision Seeds Northern Lights (Autoflowering)


Cost:

Soil + Nutrients + Pots: £60.00
Lights: £25.00(Lamp) + £5.00(Lamp holder) (10 of) £300.00
Wall sheeting: £60.00 (3 * 10M)
Other stuff: £100.00


Total: £500.00

Ok so lets start from the beginning.

Step 1 - Preparing the area

The first thing to do is find the area you have available, I am fairly lucky I have an entire room I can use, but for the sake of this journal I am going to give instructions on building a small space that would be enough for 5 plants. (Which is incidentally the size of the seed pack)


I personally give each plant 1 meter square floor space and 2 meters height. This is a little excessive, but I find it good to be able to easily move around and inspect my plants.

Here is a little diagram:
225132

The material I used for the walls in mine was MDF its cheap as chips for huge sheets from wickes or B&Q, anyhow, what you do now is take your wall sizes and add them together: 3M+3M+2M+2M = 10M and we know it has a height of 2M. so we want some blackout sheeting 10M long and 2M width. When you have your wooden sheets cut and your blackout paper, Create a U out of the 2 Short walls (2M) and one of the longer ones (3M). To actually secure my walls I put a 2M length of 2x2 (inch) construction timber in each corner, as shown below:

<TODO>

And simply screw through the back of the MDF into the beam. Anyhow, now we have three of our walls setup we want to use our Staple gun to staple our blackout sheeting around the enclosure, you should get this as FLAT and tight as possible. You should finish up with something looking like this:

<TO UPLOAD>

Now we are going to make some flooring! we will measure between the two far corners on the outside of our 'U' to get the width we need to make our flooring, we will call this 'W', next we need to measure from the outside of the back (3M) wall to the front of our enclosure, call this: 'D'.

Here is a picture of the measurements you need to take:

To find 'W': <Upload me>

To find 'D': <Upload me>

Ok the next thing we need to do is add the Thickness(We will call this 'T') of our wood to the 'D' measurement, to find the thickness of the wood simply measure across any visible edge like so:

<thickness picture>

So 'D' is now 'D' + 'T';

So we cut a piece of wood to WxD.

Ok I am sure you can guess the next step ... attaching the U to the floor, the first thing to do, is measure a line 'T' thickness in from both the 2M edge and 3M edge of the flooring, Like so:

<Flooring brace st1>

Ok we are about ready to put attach it, I am going to add two more lengths of 2x2 bracing wood so I have something to screw into.

And now I have:

<Flooring brace st2>

(Optional step) Ideally you also cover the floor in some form of reflective covering, (or paint it white), you can get special 'tough' white plastic sheeting from most online hydroponics shops its not that expensive. If you wish to do this, do it now! it makes life much easier, Assuming you did you will have something that looks like this (Note: the reflective sheeting going over the wooden braces):

<Flooring brace st3>

Right now all we do is screw through the outside of the MDF into the bracing planks we put in and we end up with something looking like this:

<Flooring + U>

So whats next?

Well it has to be the door, now there are some creating ways of doing this, I personally made it so the entire wall removes but it could be hinged or pegged, or reduced in size, hell you could even put a letter box on it if you wanted.

Mazzer
04-10-13, 07:40 PM
your right saying not for stealthies. smoked some of this a good few months back. strong as fk.