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thcdudeuk
01-08-11, 01:39 PM
just a quick question dudes please :)
im gonna be getting a new tent soon and just wondering what size intake / outtake im gonna be needing?? i've a rough idea but just need a little confirmation lol...
heres the set-up.....
tent 2.4 x 1.2 x 2.0 tent..
lights 2 x 600 hps..and i ave another 600 hps if its possible to get my temps sweet..
was thinking an 8inch rvk with rhino fillter for outtake
and a 6inch rvk for intake??
couple of fans inside ....
im i close...
as always RESPECT :joint:

ChronMan
01-08-11, 01:42 PM
8" out 6" in seems perfect to me mate :D

Anonymiss
01-08-11, 01:50 PM
lights 2 x 600 hps..and i ave another 600 hps if its possible to get my temps sweet

Have a look at the table at the end of this post to determine your cooling requirements: https://www.thctalk.com/cannabis-forum/showthread.php?48463

theo14
01-08-11, 01:54 PM
seems good to me but then again i dont use intake iv been passive all the way lol

firstauto
01-08-11, 01:56 PM
i have an 8" rvk in a 1.2 x 1.2 its seems ok but i might need a better filter that would be easier to suck through rather than the 5" cheap one i have..

thcdudeuk
01-08-11, 02:18 PM
8" out 6" in seems perfect to me mate :D
cheers dude :)
as always RESPECT

thcdudeuk
01-08-11, 02:20 PM
Have a look at the table at the end of this post to determine your cooling requirements: https://www.thctalk.com/cannabis-forum/showthread.php?48463

wow err haha lol...:D thanks so much for this but this makes my head confused.com lol
any chance u can break this down for me please :)
as always RESPECT

thcdudeuk
01-08-11, 02:23 PM
seems good to me but then again i dont use intake iv been passive all the way lol

cheers dude :) gonna drag some serious air in to this tent mate its gonna need it lol :D
as always RESPECT

thcdudeuk
01-08-11, 02:24 PM
i have an 8" rvk in a 1.2 x 1.2 its seems ok but i might need a better filter that would be easier to suck through rather than the 5" cheap one i have..

nice1 dude :) yeah a better filler would be better but u gotta make do with what ya got :D
as always RESPECT

theo14
01-08-11, 02:26 PM
cheers dude :) gonna drag some serious air in to this tent mate its gonna need it lol :D
as always RESPECT

ha 2 600's nice didnt read it properly first time lol

Anonymiss
01-08-11, 02:30 PM
wow err haha lol...:D thanks so much for this but this makes my head confused.com lol
any chance u can break this down for me please :)
as always RESPECT

I can. What's your ambient incoming air temperature, and the target temperature inside the space?

thcdudeuk
01-08-11, 02:33 PM
ha 2 600's nice didnt read it properly first time lol

lol bloody stoners eh :D
but really really want an extra sneaky 1 in for flowerage dude
as always RESPECT

thcdudeuk
01-08-11, 02:39 PM
I can. What's your ambient incoming air temperature, and the target temperature inside the space?

cheers :) hmm depends on temps from outside.. as im gonna be pulling the intake from outside but the opening for the ductin is 7 mtrs from the fan which will be attached to the tent...(did that make sence) lol... then outtake same way round :)
tent temps would be sweet 27c / 28 c :)
as always RESPECT

Anonymiss
01-08-11, 04:11 PM
cheers :) hmm depends on temps from outside.. as im gonna be pulling the intake from outside but the opening for the ductin is 7 mtrs from the fan which will be attached to the tent...(did that make sence) lol... then outtake same way round :)
tent temps would be sweet 27c / 28 c :)
as always RESPECT

OK, so here's how it works.

Find your lamp Wattage on the top line. I've marked the 600 Watt column in green.

Then find your maximum allowed temparature rise on the left. I've marked the 8°C row in yellow. I chose 8°C as I'm working on an ambient temperature of 20°C and a target temperature of 28°C, but you may want to choose a smaller rise to allow for higher incoming temperatures. You should plan for the worst case (highest expected ambient and smallest allowable rise)

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/7586/coolingrequirements.png

Where the two lines intersect is the air flow required in cubic feet per minute (CFM). You may want to convert this into cubic metres per hour (m³/hour). To do so, multiply by 1.7.

So, for a 600 Watt lamp with an 8°C rise you'll need an air flow of 132 CFM, or (132 x 1.7) = 224 m³/hour.

This is for one lamp. Multiply by the number of lamps (or add up the Wattages at the start).

This doesn't take account of ducting or filters, which will probably reduce the flow quite a bit. Here are some air flow figures for some typical centrifugal fans (MRK) in laminated aluminium ducting:


Fan Duct Duct Length
(mm) 0 Mts 2 Mts 3 Mts 5 Mts 8 Mts 10 Mts
MRK 100M 100 180 164 156 140 116 97
MRK 125M 125 225 207 198 180 162 150
MRK 150M 160 420 408 402 390 357 335
MRK 200M 200 730 722 718 710 692 680
MRK 250M 250 760 754 752 750 744 740
MRK 315M 315 1300 1292 1288 1280 1256 1240

Air flow is in m³/hour
In this example, the MRK 125M would be acceptable with no ducting (225 m³/hour, 0 metres of duct). But with 10 metres of duct you'd need the 150M instead (335 m³/hour, 10 metres duct).

Corners/bends will also have an effect. I've seen a few figures for this but perhaps the simplest is to add 15 feet (4.5m) per elbow/90° turn in 100 mm duct, or 20 feet (6m) when using 150 mm duct.

As for filters, I don't know. Getting information out of the manufacturers is difficult. But I would expect them to have a fairly significant effect.

Oh. And apparently it's good to put the fan near the centre of the ducting run to maintain decent pressure on both sides. This may depend on the fan type somewhat though and is probably more applicable to axial fans rather than centrifugal.

Good luck!

thcdudeuk
01-08-11, 04:29 PM
OK, so here's how it works.

Find your lamp Wattage on the top line. I've marked the 600 Watt column in green.

Then find your maximum allowed temparature rise on the left. I've marked the 8°C row in yellow. I chose 8°C as I'm working on an ambient temperature of 20°C and a target temperature of 28°C, but you may want to choose a smaller rise to allow for higher incoming temperatures. You should plan for the worst case (highest expected ambient and smallest allowable rise)

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/7586/coolingrequirements.png

Where the two lines intersect is the air flow required in cubic feet per minute (CFM). You may want to convert this into cubic metres per hour (m³/hour). To do so, multiply by 1.7.

So, for a 600 Watt lamp with an 8°C rise you'll need an air flow of 132 CFM, or (132 x 1.7) = 224 m³/hour.

This is for one lamp. Multiply by the number of lamps (or add up the Wattages at the start).

This doesn't take account of ducting or filters, which will probably reduce the flow quite a bit. Here are some air flow figures for some typical centrifugal fans (MRK) in laminated aluminium ducting:


Fan Duct Duct Length
(mm) 0 Mts 2 Mts 3 Mts 5 Mts 8 Mts 10 Mts
MRK 100M 100 180 164 156 140 116 97
MRK 125M 125 225 207 198 180 162 150
MRK 150M 160 420 408 402 390 357 335
MRK 200M 200 730 722 718 710 692 680
MRK 250M 250 760 754 752 750 744 740
MRK 315M 315 1300 1292 1288 1280 1256 1240

Air flow is in m³/hour
In this example, the MRK 125M would be acceptable with no ducting (225 m³/hour, 0 metres of duct). But with 10 metres of duct you'd need the 150M instead (335 m³/hour, 10 metres duct).

Corners/bends will also have an effect. I've seen a few figures for this but perhaps the simplest is to add 15 feet (4.5m) per elbow/90° turn in 100 mm duct, or 20 feet (6m) when using 150 mm duct.

As for filters, I don't know. Getting information out of the manufacturers is difficult. But I would expect them to have a fairly significant effect.

Oh. And apparently it's good to put the fan near the centre of the ducting run to maintain decent pressure on both sides. This may depend on the fan type somewhat though and is probably more applicable to axial fans rather than centrifugal.

Good luck!

my god im really glad u figured that out :) i have to read it over n over again to understand it haha
im off to figure it out lol.
thanks for your help dudette :)
as always RESPECT

thcdudeuk
01-08-11, 04:43 PM
so this should do the job as my outtake then....

8" Rhino Pro Air Filtration Kit

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy40/kentchilli/Enviroment/KitAluduct.jpg




8" Rhino Filtration Kit

Inc. 8" Rhino Pro (200x400), 8" RVK Fan, 10m 8" Aluminium Ducting
This Kit Includes:


8" (200x400), (800 m3/hr) Rhino Pro (Phat) Carbon Filter

8" (750m3/hr) RVK System Air Rhino Approved Fan

10m of 8" Aluminium Rhino Approved Ducting

Rhino Pro Filter

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy40/kentchilli/Enviroment/EBL4inchRhinoPro.jpg
The Rhino Pro Filter is constructed from Australian-mined RC412 carbon, the best in the world. The carbon is tightly packed and sealed into a high-efficiency airflow cylinder with a vortex cone in the base and a custom pore surface for maximum transference. The high-porosity carbon and lightweight aluminium make the Rhino filter smaller and easier to handle.
How long will a Rhino Pro Filter last?

Unlike all other carbon filters with effective life spans of 9 to 18 months, our filters have always been known to have an out lasting performance for well over two years. Replacement carbon sleeves are available to make them last even longer.
Rhino Pro Filter Sizes

Rhino Filters come in a range of sizes, perfect for most applications:
Filter Size Air Volume Fan Type
100 x 300

350 m3/hr

4" A1/L1 fan

125 x 300

500 m3/hr

5" A1/L1 fan

150 x 300

600 m3/hr

6" A1 fan

150 x 600

900 m3/hr

6" L1 fan

200 x 400

800 m3/hr

8" A1 fan

200 x 600

1125 m3/hr

8" L1 fan

250 x 600

1420 m3/hr

10" A1/L1 fan

250 x 1000

1900 m3/hr

10" A1/L1 fan

315 x 600

2440 m3/hr

12" A1 / L1 fan

315 x 1000

3250 m3/hr

12" L1 fan
Features of Rhino Pro Filters:



50mm bed of RC412 activated carbon.
1.6mm aluminium tops and bases for reduced weight.
Unique “Anti Air Bypass” system.
51% open area custom mesh for greater air flow.
Machine packed carbon means more carbon and less movement.
Coned internal base for optimum air flow
Sealed, boxed and labelled directly after manufacture for optimum lifespan, handling and presentation.



8" RVK Fan

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy40/kentchilli/Enviroment/RVK.jpg
The RVK Fan series is designed for using in-line with ducting. The casing is manufactured from PA6 fibreglass reinforced plastic which gives the fan less leakage and a very strong outer casing. Humid room applications of the fan are possible due to the airtight casingand the IP44 rated thermal box. The fans have backward-curved blades and external rotor motors. The mounting clamp facilitates easy installation and removal, and prevents the transfer of vibration to the duct or the grow room. the fans can be speed controlled via a voltage controller. The RVK fans have intergated thermal contacts with automatic reset.


Speed controlable
Can be installed in any postition
Maintenance-free anf reliable
Integrated thermal contacts
Inclusive mounting brackets



10m 8" Aluminium Rhino Ducting

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy40/kentchilli/Enviroment/Duct.jpg

This Aluminium Ducting is very stong with a steel wire frame spiralled within it. This type of ducting is the cheapest. Rhino Ducting is made from the best quality products and is manufactured under strict European standards and meets all safety standards.

Customers looking for quieter ducting should look at our Sonoduct kits.
Important: If purchasing multiple items, please request a combined postage total before paying, so we can combine your items and add any postal discounts. Thank you.
as always RESPECT

BIG JT
01-08-11, 04:56 PM
It's red hot at the min so I would defo go bigger in take and bigger out take. The new fans hav temp garages on them so there would do all the hard work for you.the fans can run slower but never pull more in so throw a few more penny's in for less hassle ;)