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Thread: How to make compost

  1. #21

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    Hey guys ,
    you can search for the better result in this topic in thctalk search section.
    you can also join the discussion group to find your proper answer.

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    GEORGE (23-12-17)

  3. #22

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    Compost soil is the best for growing any plant.If you do not have enough space in your garden you can do this same procedure in a barrel or compost bin.

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    GEORGE (23-12-17)

  5. #23

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    just to throw this in why not use indigenous microbes aka em1 aka lactobacillis and friends, you can make it cheaply and can compost stuff in as little as two weeks!
    .. a tipple made it topple and
    a nipple put a stop to all.

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    GEORGE (23-12-17)

  7. #24

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    If I eat a lot of medibles, can I use my own shit as fertilizer?

    Sent from my NES

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    GEORGE (23-12-17)

  9. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by lkdj2003 View Post
    Autumn leaves

    Store some dry leaves to mix with grass mowings and other soft green stuff. Make large quantities into leafmould - stuff wet leaves into black plastic sacks (loosely tied), or a wire mesh container. Use after a year or two. Mow leaves on a lawn to chop and collect them up.



    Grass mowings

    Store some dry leaves to mix with grass mowings and other soft green stuff. Make large quantities into leafmould - stuff wet leaves into black plastic sacks (loosely tied), or a wire mesh container. Use after a year or two. Mow leaves on a lawn to chop and collect them up.



    Diseased plant's

    Persistent diseases, such as white rot and clubroot, are best avoided. A hot heap, turned several times, should deal with everything else.

    Diseases that don't need living plants to survive - grey mould, mildews, wilts - may survive in a slow, cool heap. But heat is not the only factor that will kill diseases - the intense microbial activity will also help to dispose of them.



    Perennial weeds

    Some perennial weeds will be killed in a hot heap; avoid really persistent horrors such as celandine, bulbous buttercup, ground elder and bindweed. Don't burn or dump these weeds - they are rich in plant foods. Mix with grass mowings in a plastic sack. Tie it up and leave for a few months until the weeds are no longer recognisable, then add to the compost heap.


    Weed seeds

    Weed seeds may survive a cool heap, but should be killed in a hot one. If your compost tends to grow weeds, dig it in rather than spreading it on the soil surface.

    Hedge clippings and prunings

    Chop or shred tough prunings and clippings from evergreen hedges before adding to a mixed compost heap. Compost large quantities separately; even unshredded they will rot eventually. Mix with grass or other activating material; water well. Tread down the heap, then cover. In anything from a few months to years you will have a coarse mulch which can be used on perennial beds.


    Animal manures

    Strawy horse and cattle manure composts well. Keep a sack on hand to bulk up other ingredients. Manure mixed with wood shavings should be left to rot until the shavings are no longer visible. If it is dry, water well and mix with grass mowings, poultry manure or other activating material. When rotted use as a surface mulch. Wood shavings incorporated into the soil can lock up soil nitrogen, making it unavailable for plants for a year or more.

    Small pets, like hamsters, don't produce many droppings but you can still use their waste as a strawy addition to the compost heap. Guinea pigs are marvellous - they love eating weeds and convert them quickly to prime compost material!



    Paper products

    Newspaper can be added to a compost heap, but in any quantity it should go for recycling into more paper. Cardboard, paper towels and other paper items can be scrumpled up and composted. They are particularly useful where kitchen scraps make up a high proportion of the compost ingredients. Avoid glossy paper and colour print.



    Sawdust and wood shavings

    Very slow to decay. Add in small quantities; balance with quick-to-rot activating materials. See also 'Animal manures' above. Do not use if treated with wood preservatives.
    Best way to explain from outside intake to fan on intake side of tent, then extract fan then filter then ducting, depending on strain you should just smell fresh air coming out from the extraction side of tent, also make sure to have a larger extract then intake as to produce negative pressure which will be required for the carbon filter to work efficiently and trap the smell

    Sent from the Underworld

  10. #26
    TheKraken Guest

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    Wrong thread

    Sent from the Underworld

  11. #27

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    Has anyone mentioned using Effective Micro organism inoculations? mixed with molasses is a great way to kick start youre compost.

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    GEORGE (23-12-17)

  13. #28

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    Thanks! was very useful

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    GEORGE (23-12-17)

  15. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scarecrow View Post
    Has anyone mentioned using Effective Micro organism inoculations? mixed with molasses is a great way to kick start youre compost.
    I've just done that bro added molasses and watered in some mycho and bact
    I got a few males show so stripped off the leafs and bashed the stems also I added a small amount of my hens poop this happened when I looked in today

    Defo got some fungi going on in there
    Wether it's good fungi is another thing
    The mix is recycled coco and soil added home made compost from veg garden well rotted wood chips 4 years old and leave mould fb&b hen poop and sea weed also any plant remnants males and dropped leafs been sitting 4 months or more now need some tips on how to best use it I don't think it will be hot so maybe first pot up from seedling pot any tops would be great

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    GEORGE (23-12-17)

  17. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by bushdriver View Post
    just to throw this in why not use indigenous microbes aka em1 aka lactobacillis and friends, you can make it cheaply and can compost stuff in as little as two weeks!
    I'm listening care to elaborate

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