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Thread: The Biodynamic & moon planting Thread

  1. #1
    Mr Legend Guest

    Default The Biodynamic & moon planting Thread

    Good day fellow growers and plant lovers ;)


    I have been asked by many nice people here to write up a biodynamic thread and try to get it a bit more understandable, so here we go..


    Words that you will read here are written by people with many years of practical experience in biodynamic methods, some of them have conducted experiments lasting decades to test the accuracy of the planting by the moon and the stars..


    First lets try to understand what are Biodynamic methods, their difference from organic agriculture and why we should practice Biodynamic ways..


    The introduction..
    The name "Biodynamic" refers to a 'working with the energies which create and maintain life.' This is what was meant in the name given to it by the first group of farmers inspired by Rudolf Steiner to put the new method to field use as well as practical tests. They decided to call it "Biodynamic.".....The use of the word 'method' indicates that one is not dealing merely with the production of another fertilizer, organic though it is, but rather that certain principles are involved, which in their practical application secure a healthy soil and healthy plants - which in turn produce healthful food for man and healthy feed for animals.


    The why..
    Biodynamic agriculture is a system of organic agriculture that has proved to be very effective throughout the world. Biodynamic techniques enhance, rejuvenate, add to and maintain soil quality. Cow horns and cow dung, after being buried together in the earth, make the most wonderful humus to spread on the land. This improves the structure of the soil dramatically and quickly. Good soil structure means better water-holding capacity, which means better control, with consequently less loss of topsoil, which means better and deeper rots and less need for irrigation, which means deeper soil and more natural fertility. Bio-dynamic technology, with its informed use of the various preparations, will maintain soil fertility for years to come in a wholly natural way. It will support the growing of a plentiful supply of nourishing plants.


    The difference..
    The organic method is ecologically oriented. It tries to understand how Nature does things and formulates methods that are most natural. Insects and diseases are combated by the use of nature's own remedies, with parasites, and herbal sprays. Its main aim is to create healthy soil for healthy plants and maintain productivity.
    Biodynamic farming is also ecologically oriented, but has a wider scope that includes cosmic influences, planetary positions against the fixed stars - the Zodiac, personal aspects of the farmer and his mental factor. It is more concerned with consciousness expansion in regard to plants, animals and soil. The subtler aspects of the elements that influence the farm and the spirit of nature is taken into consideration. This deeper awareness is based on observation of nature.


    Biodynamic methods support nature to intensify certain natural processes, creating optimal animal populations, making special compost preparations, and planting selected companion plants at certain cosmic constellations. Rather than allowing nature to run its course BD aids nature where it is weak due to constant use. Biodynamics is man's service to the earth and its creatures, not just a method for increasing production or for providing healthy food..


    To be continued..

    Dex

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  3. #2
    Mr Legend Guest

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    HUMUS - the foundation of Biodynamic agriculture
    Humus is the organic constituent of soil, usually formed by the decomposition of plants and leaves.

    Organic farming has as its main basis, the health of the soil. Before the advent of modern agricultural techniques at about the beginning of the 20th century, all soils right across the world were healthy and living. This fertility being the result of thousands of years of careful husbandry where all the plant residues and all the cow and other domestic animal manures were returned to the soil. A wonderful soil microbial life had been built up over these years. This has been documented in many articles on soil written over the centuries.

    Modern agricultural science holds the belief that to feed a hungry world and meet the demand for an increase in food supply artificial forms of nitrogen, phosphorous, potash and all micronutrients must be added as some form of chemical salt to grow food. Acid based chemical fertilizers kill off the various soil bacteria, beneficial fungus and earthworms, which support the all important humus, which is the great basis of soil structure. So the soil lost its natural fertility.

    Plants now weakened by being fed with artificial fertilizers have developed all kinds of fungus diseases and susceptibility to many insect attacks, and as a consequence a whole regime of chemical plant pesticides and fungicides are now also being used. These chemicals are causing poisonous pollution of the soil, the water and of humans. The end result is that hectares and hectares of farming soils the world over have lost their structure, and are now degraded soils.


    Importance of Humus for Soil Structure & Fertility in Soils
    Soils that have a high humus content, have abundant living biological activity to convert plant residues, leaf litter, animal dung and vaious biomass into stable humus.

    It is said that the weight of the organisms in the soil, equals the weight of the animals above the ground that that soil can support. The micro organisms are bacteria, including rhizobia (nitrogen fixing), phosphate solubilizing bacteria, mycorrhizal fungi, algi, actinomycetes and protozoa. Then there are the macro organisms, such as nematodes, springtails, mites, ants, millipedes and earthworms.

    - Humus gives the soil the ability to absorb and retain moisture. Such soils do not dry out and require significantly less irrigation.
    - Humus provides a reservoir for the plant nutrients available in the soil for balanced plant growth.
    - Humus plays a part in supporting soil bacteria, such as rhizobacta so important for all legume nodulation and other well known bacteria, such as the phosphate solubilizing bacteria.
    - An exudate from bacterial activity results in polysaccharides (a sticky substance) being released, which helps bind the small soil particles into a nutty crumb structure to a depth of 30cm or more.
    - Humus also supports the all important mycorryhzal fungi, which form a symbiosis with many plants and are an important factor in the soil food web. The hyphae from these fungi help bind the soil particles to form good soil structure.

    To be continued..

    Dex

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  5. #3
    Mr Legend Guest

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    The relationship between soil microbiology and the biodynamic preparations..
    by Peter Proctor


    How do the biodynamic preparations help the activity of soil?



    Mycorrhizal fungi..
    There is a very interesting and easily read book for the layman on soil microbiology, which has been only recently published called “Tales from the Underground” by David W. Wolfe from Cornell University USA. It is published by Perseus Publishing Cambridge Massachusetts. Wolfe talks, among other things, a lot about soil bacteria and soil fungi and he describes the amazing connections between the bacterial and fungal life in the soil and plants. In particular the connections of the rhizobia bacteria (those are the bacteria that are responsible for the formation of nitrogen nodulation of the legume plants) and also the various mycorrhizal fungi which attach themselves to the roots of many plants in a symbiotic fashion. Mycorrhizal fungi form an association, with various plants, by means of their fine hyphae attaching themselves to the plant roots and seek out nutrients and moisture for the plant, in exchange for carbohydrates that the plant synthesizes by photosynthesis.

    I have been looking at the nitrogen nodules on legumes resulting from nitrogen fixing bacteria, with the naked eye all my life and I am very familiar with the inoculation of various rhizobium species needed for different legumes. The rhizobia are host specific. Rhizobia needed for lucern are different from those needed for say soya bean, vetch or cow pea.

    But of the mycorrhizal fungi I knew very little about except they existed on and grew around the roots of the pine trees, the silver birch and the oaks and aided their growth, but I had no idea that apparently 90% of all plants right through the world have a symbiotic relationship with the mycorrhizals. With an enlargement scope of 20X, these hyphae can be seen in and around the roots of the host plant and right through the particles of the surrounding soil. They are very fine and cobwebby looking, about 1 micron (finest merino or cashmere wool is 15-20 micron) and which penetrate the particles of soil. Not surprisingly they look like strands of fungus on moldy bread. Incidentally these hyphae help bind the soil particles to form a crumb structure. Wolfe points out that the mycorrhizal fungi unlike the rhizobia bacteria are not always host specific and often spread from plant to plant and species to species. The strands of their hyphae are interconnected and apparently travel for very long distances seeking nutrients for the plants. Also often along with various helpful bacteria, plants are able to get their nutrition a long way from their root zone. A kind of food conveyor belt is in progress.

    For instance, it is thus possible to have a symbiotic relationship between, the rhizobium bacteria which fix nitrogen from the atmosphere via the nodules on the roots of legumes, which are being grown between a crop of maize or sugar cane, and mycorrhizal fungi whose hyphae helpfully pass on the nitrogen from the legume to the roots of the crop. Apparently this is quite a comparatively recent discovery in research into the world of the mycorrhizal fungi and only since the last 10 to 15 years.



    The Agriculture Course..
    Rudolf Steiner while giving the agricultural course in 1924 talked about the preparations for the first time and how they would enrich the manures and composts and also bring a sensitivity to the plant. When he had just finished talking about the dandelion preparation BD506, he said (in Chapter 5, page 104 Agricultural Course), “Now if you treat the soil as I have described, the plants will be able to draw on what they need from a very wide area. They will be able to use not only what is in their own field, but also what is in the soil of a nearby meadow if they need it or what is in the soil in a neighboring forest.” He was obviously talking about the connecting hyphae of the mycorrhizal fungi.

    So previously when I read this extract of Rudolf Steiner’s lecture, I had always found it difficult to understand. Now in relation to Wolfe’s explanation of the activity of the hyphae and the distances they could travel to collect nutrients and moisture, it all suddenly made sense! We are using the preparations, in one way to encourage this microbial soil life and the resultant balanced soil which supports healthy plants. Thus one function of the preparations is to improve the effectiveness of these soil mycorrhizae. And another function is that the healthy living soil allow the cosmic growth forces to stream into the soil to support plants of healthy and nutritious quality.



    Research Work..
    There has been some work done recently by Prof. Barbara von Wechmar, a microbiologist at the Stellenbosch University in Capetown, So. Africa, of growing fungi and bacteria samples from the BD preparations and CPP in the laboratory on various substrates. These all showed a tremendous variety of fungi and bacteria. The BD500 picture was described by Prof. Barbara as an interesting and beautifully balanced collection of fungi.

    Dr. Perumal from the MCRC Institute in Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India has tested the BD preparations for bacteria and particularly rhizobia. He found the BD500 cow horn dung and the BD504 Stinging Nettle have remarkably high numbers of this bacteria.

    Work done at ICRISAT in Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, India has found beneficial bacteria, antagonistic towards Fusarium root fungus of chick peas, in compost treated with biodynamic preparations, which effectively combated the fungus.

    This shows the benefits of the beneficial bacteria in the BD preps and which can be multiplied during the composting process.



    The Preparations..
    The Biodynamic preparations, when applied to the soil in the various ways – through the stirred cow horn dung BD500, and the preparations BD502-507 which are used in composts, liquid manures or cow pat pit (CPP) – on one level actually work through the soil micro life and encourage the development of mycorrhizal fungi hyphae and the rhizobia as well as other micro and macro soil organisms. They thus work to enliven the soil structure and make the plant nutrients more available. Again to quote Rudolf Steiner, “The plants then will be able to use not only what is in their own field, but what is in the soil of a nearby meadow if they happen to need it or of what is in the soil in the neighboring forest.” The forces that are in the preparations work through the microbial life in the soil or the healthy nature of the soil. Cosmic influences come into the soil through healthy living soil.

    Actually the preparations make the organic part of the soil active and living. The biodynamic farmer can actually see the changes in the structure of his soil and also most importantly the health and quality of his crops.

    The enlivening of the soil through the increase of the living organisms therein, is the most important aspect of the biodynamic system of agriculture. Actually it is the preparations which make organic farming work.

    We can now come to the thought that there is a spiritual impulse or connection, working out there between the soil, plant and the cosmos. The preparations when used on the land, can be seen as a bridge between the life of the soil and the wholesome growth of all plants. Rudolf Steiner talks about nature spirits or elemental beings which are also a bridge between the world of spirit and the world of plant and the world of animals. Thus, it is great if the farmer can develop a connection with his plants and his animals with enthusiasm for their well-being.

    Rudolf Steiner calls it the etheric formative force, where Spirit is working out of Matter.


    To be continued..


    Dex

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  7. #4

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    Hello Dex, this is great stuff mate and a fascinating read. I think things like this, not to mention the less is more philosophy, are the way forward given that our world gets more and more toxic every year.

    I believe nature is the one area where science, with all its chemical ferts, pesticides and herbicides etc... has hugely let us down and caused alot more problems than it has solved.

    Plants did fine without science for millennia. All we had to do was maintain the balance that was already in place, instead science tried to change it! And failed!!

    As you explained in your pm mate, the fact that only plants in an organic medium respond to the moons influence, where as plants fed chemically do not, speaks volumes!!!

    Keep it coming mate, I could read this stuff all night long!

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  9. #5

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    I'll second that!

    Having only two grows, both dwc, under my belt, I'm not head strong about any one method yet.

    The more I read, the more this seams to fit my personal style.

    MT

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  11. #6
    Mr Legend Guest

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    Thank you for joining in guys and i hope more will come

    I'll do my best with updates and try to post some pictures when ill be making compost or preps..

    Cheers.. Dex

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  13. #7
    Mr Legend Guest

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    Ok, if you have read this far you might be ready for the next stage


    I will explain the basis of biodynamic preparations and won't go into how they are prepared because at this stage it would be a bit to much and i doubt that any of you will make them. If you come to a point that you need those preparations just let me know and i will do my best to make them accessible to you. At this time they are available for purchase from reliable sources all over the world.


    Also if someone has any knowledge on the topic and wants to add something or you have a question please fire away..


    Lets start again..


    The Bio-Dynamic Preparations


    Introduction..
    Biodynamic agriculture uses a series of preparations numbered from 500 to 508 which are based on various mineral, plant, and animal substances. These enhance all the bacterial, fungal and mineral processes that are found in the organic farming system.


    BD500 - Stimulates soil life and root growth
    Known as cow horn manure, preparation 500 is basically fermented cow dung. It is the basis for soil fertility, and the renewal of degraded soils. It is usually the first preparation used during the change over to the organic/biodynamic system.


    BD501 - Enhances light metabolism (photosynthesis)
    Cow Horn Silica foliar spray enhances the photosynthesis of the leaf, and as such compliments the activity of the preparation BD500, which works mostly in the root zone of the plant. It also strengthens the plants against some fungus attack


    The Compost Preps 502-507 are all made from medicinal herbs. BD502-506 are humus-like, rich in beneficial bacterial life and minerals and BD507 is a liquid. They radiate cosmic influences and forces throughout the compost heap aiding the transformation of compost material into humus.



    BD502 Yarrow - Enhances trace elements uptake in compost
    BD503 Chamomile - Stabilizes nitrogen in compost and enhances soil life
    BD504 Stinging Nettle - Stimulates soil health
    BD505 Oak Bark - Provides healing forces to fight plant diseases
    BD506 Dandelion - Stimulates relationship between silica and potassium so that silica can attract cosmic forces to the soil
    BD507 Valerian - Stimulates compost so that phosphorus will be properly used by the soil
    BD508 Horsetail - Serves as a preventive to lessen the effects when conditions are favorable for fungi

    Just 1 gram of each prep in a compost heap is enough, in much the same way as a small spoon of yogurt in a large bowl of milk is enough to transform the entire bowl of milk into yogurt.

    Cont...

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  15. #8
    Mr Legend Guest

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    I'll be at my greenhouse this weekend making compost and I'll snap a couple of pics to post when I'm back

    So let's learn how to make biodynamic compost..

    THE COMPOST


    Introduction..
    Plant nutrients are maintained in the soil by addition of composts, made from animal manures which are usually combined with plant materials, such as green legume crops and dry strawy material, where the organic materials are converted into a stable humus through a fermentation process.


    Composting the organic materials, will avoid the nutrient losses from oxidation or leaching that would happen if these organic materials were to be applied directly on the ground. Various rock dusts can be applied through the compost heap to supply depleted essential mineral elements.


    Compost Making


    Making quality compost is very important as a way to maintain humus in the soil. The method is relatively simple and the best way to understand the making of compost is to do it.


    Use a mixture of protein rich materials e.g. animal manures, lawn clippings, fresh green grass, leaves and shoots of legume trees such and carbon rich materials e.g. shredded coconut fronds, coir pith, paddy straw, hay, wood chips, dry leaves and grasses in a proportion of 60% protein and 40% carbonaceous.


    Attention must be given to the aeration of the material. Without air, the heap will not heat up and it will become anaerobic and smelly.


    Build an air tunnel at the bottom of the heap, with layers of hay from a bale, or corn stalks or similar. This stops the heap from settling down too much.


    Usually a compost is best made in a layering method, with the carbonaceous layer about 10cm deep, alternating with the protein material which is about 15cm deep. In this way the protein of the green will supply the nitrogen, that the bacteria require for their growth, to break down the carbon material.


    Keep the layers loose, do not firm the material down too much, as that will exclude the air.


    The animal dung should be made into a slurry and watered onto the carbon layer. This will bring the animal effect into the compost and also feed the micro organisms which will break down the dry material.


    To have a successful fermentation, attention must be given to getting the right amount of moisture as well as the right air content and then the right temperature will arise, which is about 60°C for 2-3 weeks during which time fungal activity is evident - changing gradually to bacterial activity.


    Therefore, care must be taken that the dry carbon material is moist enough. Generally it is best to wet any dry material before it is put on to the heap. A test to assess proper moisture content is that water should drip out of the material when it is squeezed in the hand.


    Add hydrated lime to the green vegetation layer. Just a dusting like sugar on donuts..


    If the soil needs phosphate, rock phosphate can be also applied to the heap, approx 25kgs per 5m3. It can be sprinkled on the carbon layer. The theory is that the organic acids in the heap will gently work on the phosphate rock and make the phosphate available.


    The heap should be built as a windrow. The dimensions of the heap should be two meters wide at the base and one and a half meters high and as long as is practical. Basically 5 meters long appears to be a convenient length.


    One meter length will give approx one cubic meter, or one tone approx, of finished compost, depending on the nature of the materials. Some farmers make heaps of bigger proportions than this, but usually they will run into a breaking down problem due to compaction of the large volume and consequent lack of aeration.

    The small garden can have a windrow style heap of smaller dimensions.


    When the compost heap is completed then we add preps


    - Make 5 deep holes in the compost heap shaped like X
    - Put 1 gm each of the BD 502-506 preps in the holes – 1 prep/hole
    - Make a hole on the top of the heap
    - Stir 10ml of BD 507 in 1 liter of water for 10 mins and pour ½ of it into the hole on top
    - Sprinkle the remaining ½ BD 507 evenly round the heap
    - Insert a stick into the heap to measure heath
    - Water regularly


    It is best to make compost where there is shade. Small and light trees are beneficial to compost making and will provide valuable shade during the hot dry months but avoid building heaps under trees with rampant roots.


    The heap should be turned regularly. Probably after about 6 weeks. This will aerate the heap and it also will give a chance to check moisture content. The compost should be ready in about 4 months depending on the ambient temperature. It will be a brown, crumbly humus.

    Cheers.. Dex


    Cont..

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  17. #9
    Mr Legend Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by The-Limey-Digit View Post
    Hello Dex, this is great stuff mate and a fascinating read. I think things like this, not to mention the less is more philosophy, are the way forward given that our world gets more and more toxic every year.

    I believe nature is the one area where science, with all its chemical ferts, pesticides and herbicides etc... has hugely let us down and caused alot more problems than it has solved.

    Plants did fine without science for millennia. All we had to do was maintain the balance that was already in place, instead science tried to change it! And failed!!

    As you explained in your pm mate, the fact that only plants in an organic medium respond to the moons influence, where as plants fed chemically do not, speaks volumes!!!

    Keep it coming mate, I could read this stuff all night long!
    Hey Limey..

    You couldn't be more right pal, we are all aware what is the use of chemical ferts and pesticides doing to earth and our lives but we keep ignoring the consequences and do nothing to change.

    I honestly believe that people would change if we give them the right tools to make that change, that is the reason why I'm writing this thread

    When I first got into growing vegetables and came in contact wirh farmers around me, I was shocked when I found out how disconnected they became from their farms and that all the "old ways" were entirely forgotten. Even when they see what can be done with biodynamics they are still reluctant to try, mainly because they have been conditioned all their lives that the chemist in the whith coat is the smart one and that their forefathers were stupid but also because they are old and afraid of change..

    It is younger generations that will have to make that change, luckily more and more young farmers are looking for alternative so this idea has to be shared freely..

    The biggest problem BD is facing, is that people just don't understand how this is possible and unless it is measurable by modern science how can it be trusted. How can I make a modern farmer belive that a diluted BD501 to a ratio of 1/100.000 is more potent than the pure product, to him that is just pure water but to the plant that is esoteric potion of life and you can see them react within an hour..

    Whell, i can only do my part in sharing the idea and if it only reaches a few it's good enough for me

    Atb.. Dex

    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyTime View Post
    I'll second that!

    Having only two grows, both dwc, under my belt, I'm not head strong about any one method yet.

    The more I read, the more this seams to fit my personal style.

    MT
    Hey MT..

    Thanks for joining the discussion mate

    I'm not saying anything is wrong in growing the herb with chemistry but wouldn't we all like our medicine to grow the most natural way possible

    If we could achieve the same results with BD and even do better with less effort and money, wouldn't we all want to give it a shot?

    Problem with using BD on small scale indor grows is that nobody micro scaled the products so far because they are so potent. We use grams per acres so it would be grains per pot lol

    I've been working with my guru on that idea for past few months and we're just about ready for a test grow that I'll do in my diary so keep an eye open..

    Thanks for the input bud..

    Dex

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  19. #10

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    Been reading all the way lads... tantalizing...
    I finally have a question... regarding micro-sizing for the personal small home gardener...

    how small can ya go?

    can you do a 1 or 2 pot system to fit a 16 x 16 x 48 inch tall cab? or 45 x 45 x 120cm tall ... yeah, that small
    and keep components cost effective?
    suposing the lights & other kit are sorted otherwise...?

    My approach so far is essentially an old school natural compost based medium and better nute-nuking thru chemistry
    It's a rudimentary cobble of what's at hand and next to no budget...
    But I've grown veggies and house plants of all sorts over the years and had most the basic stuffs at hand...
    But it's taking a good bit of honing my skills 'n kit to get appreciable results w/in the confines of my cabs...

    Your discussion expands the horizons of home gardening in small spaces

    Kind Regards.
    Wasat

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