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Thread: Persistant root rot, bennificial bacteria not working

  1. #1

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    Default Persistant root rot, bennificial bacteria not working

    I am very close to solving the last major problem in my grow, but it is one hell of a puzzle so please let me try to explain it the best I can and please help guys, your input has been incredibly helpful thus far. It seems I have been battling root rot for a long time now. It was much worse and more visible before, killing an entire crop in fogponics. Since then I have changed to NFT, added beneficial bacteria, and lowered res temps to exactly 67.6F. I have also shielded the reservoir with 3 layers of cardboard in addition to the lid so that no light can get at it at all but the lid is cut and the cardboard layers are stacked loosely enough for air to get at the reservoir. I don't think I need an air stone because the water is at optimum oxygen absorbing temperature and the 8 foot long, 4 inch wide NFT stream creates maximum water movement, providing plenty of moving area for oxygen to be absorbed through the surface. The roots in the water have been pearly white, but just today I noticed that the roots that are above the water are light brown. I didn't notice it because in NFT the roots don't dangle very far before they hit the water. This amount of light brown roots above the water is so small that they probably weigh less than a quarter of a gram, while the roots in the water probably weigh 7 grams. So my guess is that the roots above the water have a constant Pythium infection, but whenever the Pythium tries to invade below the water level, my beneficial bacteria gobble them up. But this might not be the case because my reservoir has patches of bubbly foam on the surface and the PH RISES BY MORE THAN 2 POINTS IN LESS THAN A DAY! This would seem to indicate a larger infection I would think, but as I said the roots below the water are pearly white! What a puzzle. Adding H2O2 to the reservoir would not help because if the beneficial bacteria in the stream cant reach the roots above the water, neither could the H2O2. I have just bathed the roots and changed the reservoir and the ph just rises uncontrollably within a day after changing. I will add more light shielding to the NFT channels themselves but I don't think this alone will be enough to solve the problem. Here are my numbers, please help guys:

    all polyethylene NFT system no rockwool just neoprene collars
    620ppm maxigro
    26 gallon reservoir
    67.6 water temp
    5.4 ph rises to 6.7 in 12 hours
    66% humidity
    70F air temp
    i keep adding shots of Hydroguard at about 8ml dose, 3 doses so far in this reservoir

  2. #2

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    here ya go
    https://i.imgur.com/Gy7chjK.jpg
    i swear to god they look brown in the picture but white in real life

  3. #3

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    Fogponics
    What is going on brother!!
    What beneficial bacteria have you added now mate?
    Did you receive my email, I hope so I sent it earlier. I did reply in another thread you started the other day about getting the plants to a bath if you can to spray them off and was waiting for ya to reply mate, sorry mate never mind.
    How do you know there is sufficient oxygen in the water, have you got a D/O meter.
    Soon mate
    Redz
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    And I wouldn't keep adding shots of anything right now mate
    Redz

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    Dude, sorry I'm late reading this. Last summer I had the same problem. After doing some research and re-reading my biology textbooks I found the following info.

    Pythium disease can be recognized by a brown root system that breaks away when pulled. This may also be accompanied by a musty smell as the root system decays. These pathogens directly attack the root system of the plant, causing normally healthy white roots to change color to brown or gray. This typically happens within just a few days of the initial infection of the system. This is followed by a “slimming off” of the roots.

    Products such as Hydrogen Peroxide, or Monochloramine (Pythoff) are useful sterilizing agents. Because Pythium is a living organism, sterilization will kill the Pythium spores.

    I used sodium hypochlorite (Clorox Bleach, since I had this handy), another alternative is calcium hypochlorite (bleaching powder/pool chlorine = approx. 65% Cl). Bleach quickly destroys microbial cells, irreversibly killing many pathogens in the given area. Use 10% bleach water to wash/ sterilize, and run the pump through the sprayers for 24 hrs, with plants in place, no nutes; then flush system twice to remove bleach residue and dead roots/bacteria. This will kill the Pythium and the roots will return to normal color in about 3-4 days.

    After my system was back to normal, I started using 12 ml/gal 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (kills bacteria in my cuts, figured it kills bacteria in the system) on a weekly basis. Hydrogen Peroxide adds oxygen to the water and cleans it of pathogens.

    Important: DO NOT USE OXIDANTS WITH ORGANIC MEDIAS OR ORGANIC ADDITIVES - chlorine and hydrogen peroxide are not suitable for use where organic media (e.g. coco substrate) or organic additives are used. These products are oxidants and oxidants break down organic matter. Chlorine and hydrogen peroxide should never be used together at the same time. Hydrogen peroxide is one method employed by water treatment experts to chase chlorine from water supply mains. I.e. each product (chlorine/hydrogen peroxide) renders the other inert.

    Hope this helps, good luck.

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    ballboy (01-05-17)

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    ive been lucky never had root rot in NFT..

    but i like to be lazy now,,, so its roots excelurator in veg and then onto microbial after veg...

    i dont do res temps no more or owt like that...

    ph is always all over especially fresh res changes.... but after 3 days i find it stabalizes...

    just keep the ec in range and adjust ph every day till stablizes and fuk all the other shit off... ph up or silicon... i know ph up down not nice stuff but it works and yeild is still same of better.

    Ultra Noob with a Sand grain brain (forever blowing bubbles)

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    ballboy (01-05-17)

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