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Thread: 430nm Quantum

  1. #11

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    Yeah sorry that was all 4.

    Got my Mean Well driver today (decent dimmable on unit one with earth and waterproof) and at max is 42w so roughly 1W a diode?
    Last edited by Jumper114; 13-08-19 at 05:11 PM.
    Current Grow (3L coco autos) : Jumper's 2020 shenanigans

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  3. #12

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    Are you wiring the red and blue together? Looks like they run on different voltages. What voltage are you running at?

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  5. #13

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    Yeah I am ... that explains why they were dull wired as a combo!

    I will run each pair off a separate driver!

    Thanks Agent Green - knew I had bug%%rd something!

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  7. #14

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    Nice bit of experimentation happening here

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  9. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jumper114 View Post
    Yeah I am ... that explains why they were dull wired as a combo!

    I will run each pair off a separate driver!

    Thanks Agent Green - knew I had bug%%rd something!
    Can also use a single driver if you series connect them

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  11. #16

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    Today I managed to build the "arms".

    I am waiting on some heat conductive glue so that I can attach the 660nm in the middle of the 430 / 670 strips. Test fired and oh so bright! I had spots for ages! Doh!

    The ballasts have been mounted outside the tent in a vented box and wired through the tent and down from the roof.

    Bl***dy hard with 7 plants and p!ssing down!

    I am using 4 ballasts, one for each colour. I am not sure I needed to, but it works properly now! On the plus side, each is on a WIFI controlled plug. So nice and convenient from phone.

    Luckily I have a spare 288 IS panel, which the arms could be attached to. Even more convenient that the heat sinks are drilled..... Took me a while to figure out how to do this neatly!

    Tomorrow I just need to remove the old IS 288 panel and 660nm strips, stick on the 660nm to the new frame, rehang and wire up 4 x ballast. Should be pretty simple.

    Using aluminium, the total weight is negligible.

    Oh and attach heat sinks to the new strips. (adhesive sinks, one per LED).

    I have used Wagu connectors on each input as I found I could break the plastic housing too easily. This way 1 time fit . After that just a lever. I am oh so clumsy!



    Sh!t gets real tomorrow ppls!
    Last edited by Jumper114; 14-08-19 at 09:54 PM.

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  13. #17

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    Doh think I blew three of the boards.

    Agent Green is correct. They run different voltages.

    The static held in the driver blew out the 670nm..... @rse. None will work wired singularly now.

    Ordered more! Bah!

    Can I use the same driver but use two of them - one for each pair? (Mean Well pcd-40-350B)

    Wish I knew sh!t about leccy! ton of hard earned down the pan.

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  15. #18

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    Its current that blows leds not voltage. Provided you limit the current, the driver will supply the correct voltage ( within the range the driver can supply)

    You can run all the colours of the rainbow at same time providing you dont allow too much current through them.

    Driver choice is key

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  17. #19

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    That's a shame, doesn't look like they added any current limiting resistors to the board either.

    Worth reading up on electricity. It's pretty simple as long as you can maths. If you struggle with equations then you are out of luck but all you really need is V=IR

    Frying electronics is all part of learning.

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  19. #20

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    Finally got the new QB11s wired up.

    Got the wrong driver for the far red I think, as it seems a little under powered.

    These bolt length ways onto my ISH 288.



    Just got to get them fitted now.

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