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Thread: LUXEON SunPlus 35

  1. #1

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    Default LUXEON SunPlus 35

    Has anybody tried these? I can't seem to find a mention on here but my searchfu might be off. Can't even seem to find a growlight using them.

    The purples look very interesting. Been working on an LED board, 20cm/20cm. Nearly got it right for fabrication. 8 lines of purps and 2 lines of the samsung LM301H. Just need to find a switch so I can use only the samsung for seedlings. Maybe. Not sure if that is a good idea, might just go with full purps and have a switch to just use the middle 4 rows.



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  3. #2

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    Looks like they were only released the end of last year, guess it's too early.

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  5. #3

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    Decided against using the white Samsung LEDs or having a switch on the board. Thought if I do need some white light I can just add some extra, not sure I will need it but I have no idea really. Went with the 2.5% blue purple LEDs. Should run on 36v 1 amp~

    Ordered the LEDs, cost £0.40 a go for 110 just in case I break any. Never tried surface mount before so I should probably practise first. Now I just need to find somebody to make the board. Been using Kicad to design the board, it also does funny 3D renders. Took a good look at the invisible sun boards to see how they designed theirs. Now I just need to give it a cool name Purple Lake, Sunplus Purple, Deep Purple, 2020Purple, SunPlus2020

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  7. #4

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    Practice boards have arrived. £8 for three boards and all the components. Cheap as chips Also got my hot air gun so going to have a go today or tomorrow.




    Ordered the LED boards, cost £70 for 5 20cm/20cm boards but after shipping from China and tax it ended up being £150 total so £30 a board. The smallest run they would do is 5 boards but not a bad price. £70 total each including the LED's.

    When you can get a 24cm/24cm from invisible sun for £40 it's only worth doing if you enjoy electronics as a hobby. Just doing the one board for my cupboard atm but if I can get a 2ft/2ft tent I think the other 4 could work well in there. That's if they work
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  9. #5

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    Pair of tweezers & a decent soldering iron & you could have saved a hot air gun purchase
    “Do you have to believe in what you sing about?”

    (Anita Price)

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  11. #6

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    I am sure it is possible but it seems a better idea with hot air and solder paste, think it will do a better job. I do have a soldering iron.

    The LED's have a footprint mostly under the LED so I am not sure how great a join / heatsink a soldering iron would do.

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  13. #7

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    The boards arrived Never got round to trying the other boards but I will get the motivation soon to practice. Then just 100 LED's to put on the board

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    So I finally got the motivation to practice using the heat gun, turns out it is a piece of piss. Set the heat to 230c and the paste easily melted. Tried a few components then called it good.


    Then the problems started, it seems obvious now. The standard FR4 board is completely different to using an aluminium board. Doh. Obviously the heat sink will sink the heat! Cranked it up to 450c and still couldn't melt the solder paste. It was just taking away too much heat... Turns out the heat gun was a waste for aluminium boards, but I don't think an iron would have been any better.

    Luckily I have a pottery kiln so decided to try using that as a reflow oven. Went pretty successfully. All the resistors and LED's still work, took it up to around 240c as 260c is the max temp for the LED's. Now I know it works I can do the rest of the board after work. Looks a little messy but there's no shorts to ground. Just need to work on my paste application.



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  17. #9

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    What a fantastic project. The skills of the talk members never ceases to amaze me.

    I just blew up 3 QB 11 strips! You are building boards from scratch! Bonkers!

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  19. #10

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    Get yourself a hot plate, a component placer and you can call yourself visible sun or something like that.

    Seriously though good luck with the smd, its a ball ache but doable. I bet you end up with it on the cooker

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  21. #11

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    Thanks Jumper, I have been doing electronics as a hobby for about 5 years so got a bit of experience behind me. I would hold your amazement until the thing actually works xD Might just be an expensive paper weight.

    At least your mistake will always remind you to double check the specifications. You can see the resistors I added on mine to limit the current. The voltage per string is going to be 36v - 28v (2.8v x 10 for the voltage drop across the LED's) and the resistor is 81 ohms so I = V/R 8/81 = 0.0987... it will limit the current to around 100mA and may save some LED's if the wrong driver is used. Should have added some diodes really for polarity protection but meh. They are 1W resistor dissipating 0.82W~

    Invisible Sun say theirs are balancing resistors too, mine are not that fancy as I cba to test every LED's voltage and balance them. I think that's what they are doing anyway.

    Been using a pottery kiln Gardro, temperature controlled with a thermocouple so does a pretty good job. No intention of starting any kind of business. I mean the idea floats around in my mind but seems like a lot of work, tried running a business before and I was no good at it. Sales is not my thing. Much better at going to work for a wage and doing shit like this for fun. Hey if it works I will share the files so others could do the same. We could all chip in an get say 100 thctalk boards fabricated completely

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  23. #12

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    Took about 1.5 hours of a Joe Rogan podcast to paste and place the rest of the components


    Got baked, got them baked. Too tired now to test anything. LED's light using the multimeter at least.
    Little blurry...

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    Looking good and tidy that. Leds are diodes so you wont need any additional polarity protection

    Resistors will limit the current well, make the lights more misuse proof but in the days of efficiency, i dont see them being acceptable anymore. For this diy its a good idea.

    Top bin leds will always be perfectly matched. The best led lighting only uses these so i ask myself why only some manufacturers use them and others use resistors. Not to mention the wasted watts in the "balance" resistors

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  27. #14

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    Haha yea I suppose they are, but not exactly intended for that function. You could probably still damage them with enough voltage in the wrong direction. I couldn't even find any bin info when buying these so got no idea what bin they are. The specifications were in the datasheet but nothing to find when buying them. If I really need to save power I could swap the resistors for a 0 link.

    Well I tested the board this morning and 8/10 rows are lighting. Not bad for my first surface mount board. I can see a few suspect LED's in those two rows but not sure how to go about fixing. Do I just reflow the board again or try a preheat and heatgun. I am thinking preheat and heat gun as it's just one or two. Does say in the data sheet you can reflow 3 times.

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  29. #15

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    So my dreams about an easy preheat followed by some LED wiggling were dashed this morning. Succeeded in burning two LED's before the solder even melted. Took the board up to 150c and used the hot air gun.

    Might just have to go all the way to 240c and do some LED wiggling then. Good thing I got the 10 spares although they seem like tough cookies as the two I fucked still work. Not going to put them back on the board though.

    Shit, it was all going so well. Hopefully my next try will be a success...

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  31. #16

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    Decided to wait until the weekend for my next attempt. Two reflows later and a slightly burnt hand the board is now working

    Next time I am going to put the extra effort in placing to make sure it works first time. Could try some of their other flavours on the other boards.

    Hard to get a good picture. Might try with a different camera later.
    Low Power


    Full Power


    Plant Power

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