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Thread: First time breeding attempt

  1. #11

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    Well not much seems to be happening to be honest. The branches don't look much different than those I didn't pollinate.Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by prime View Post
    Well not much seems to be happening to be honest. The branches don't look much different than those I didn't pollinate.Click image for larger version. 

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    I've read the pistils turn brown on those pollinated, perhaps this will be a difference you will see soon compared with the branches you didn't pollinate?

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  5. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by IceCalibur View Post
    I've read the pistils turn brown on those pollinated, perhaps this will be a difference you will see soon compared with the branches you didn't pollinate?
    Yeah I believe they turn brown and then the calyxes start to swell. Not seen any noticeable browning yet though, on any of the plants I've pollinated. Wonder whether the male was a Jaffa?

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  7. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by prime View Post
    Yeah I believe they turn brown and then the calyxes start to swell. Not seen any noticeable browning yet though, on any of the plants I've pollinated. Wonder whether the male was a Jaffa?
    I know with colloidal silver some spray twice daily for first few weeks
    Not sure the above applies with using pollen tho
    Hope you get what your after mate


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  9. #15

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    Prime, I had a "pollen gate" incident where I left the male plant with the girls for too long...

    What I found is that the first lot of pollen was not the most potent. I stored some of the first lot for the next grow and it was a no-go. As in, like this:



    The more fertile lot of pollen was the stuff that I tapped off of the flowers into a travel size mini tub. This was when I had bunches and bunches of male flowers. And even then the artificial pollination was a bit pants. With the stored pollen all I got was 2 seeds. I did the dabbing on with a make up brush.

    With the male plant in the grow space, I had WAY FREAKIN' TOO MANY seeds and thankfully the buds though were LOADED with seeds, what is left the potency was still sufficiently high for our use.

    Edited to add, the male plant was a CBD Sweet & Sour by Seedsman.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleargreen View Post
    Nice going prime, takes just a couple days for the pistils to shrivel if I remember correctly. Didn't pay much attention to that during my seed grow to be honest.

    As for the resulting plants, expect the females to pass down the most traits to the offspring, don't ask me why it's just something I read and confirmed when growing out 10 plants from a cross I made myself.
    That's an absolutely kickass bit of information, CG. Thank you so much!!!

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  13. #17

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    Well I think I may have left it too late to pollinate. It's three weeks today, but the plants are ready to come down. I have left the pollinated branch of tangilope unharvested and is still on the now trimmed plant.
    Any idea how long until I should get viable seeds guys?

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    Quote Originally Posted by prime View Post
    Well I think I may have left it too late to pollinate. It's three weeks today, but the plants are ready to come down. I have left the pollinated branch of tangilope unharvested and is still on the now trimmed plant.
    Any idea how long until I should get viable seeds guys?
    Some of the seeds that fully ripened on my old plants the calyxs would open and the seeds would just fall out, or at least split and the seeds would come out with minimal effort on my part. So it kinda depends on the plant?

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  17. #19

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    This forcing plants to mate is certainly more difficult then I initially though.
    I didn't have any luck with stored pollen either and mixed results during my seed grow in that some plants did produce an acceptable amount of seeds and some of the others were downright disappointing.

    It is my understanding that it takes about 5 weeks for seeds to fully mature and like Val said they'll pop right out when they are there or at the very least become quite visible.
    Color and pattern on the seeds is a good indicator as well although one of my crosses had a surprisingly pale seed and was lacking pattern but luckily they were viable.

    You can read about it in the champagne bottle grow linked below

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  19. #20

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    I hope I'm not to late ,but make sure your pollen is dry (room temp at best if you don't have a dehumidifier) before storing and freezing. Should be good for a month without much loss of pollination to plant to be pollenated. Longer storage will result in fewer pollenated sites but still viable if you work with it and watch for signs of pollination.

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