How to Cultivate High Quality Outdoor Cannabis
Growing up in the tropical regions of Australia, I was exposed to the privilege of living in an incredibly fertile climate where cannabis cultivators thrived. I sprouted my first seeds as a curious 13 year old, without a clue what I was doing. As a first generation grower without guidance, it took many years to learn the do’s and don’ts of cannabis cultivation. Now, each plant in my garden can produce half a kilogram (one pound) of high quality product. Here I hope to share my decade of experience with others who also wish to grow their own medicine. To my fellow gardeners, outlaws, and students, I wish you all a prosperous harvest.
Step 1: Pick your genetics
This is a step which most novice growers can skip, the criminal status of cannabis cultivation (particularly in Australia) inhibits easy access to a variety of high grade strains. Instead, the home grower will typically grow cannabis plants from “bag seed” - seeds that have been simply picked out of purchased buds. If you do have access to different strains, here is the stereotypical run down:
Sativa
– Evolved in regions close to the equator (Hawaii, Thailand, South America, etc.).
– Narrow leaves/leaflets
– Longer fluffier buds
– Taller ‘Christmas tree’ shaped plants.
– High in THC but typically low in CBD
– Cerebral high without couch lock effect.
– Grow better in tropical climates.
Indica
– Evolved in dry regions far from equator (Afghanistan, Kazakhstan etc.).
– Wide leaves/leaflets
– Round denser buds.
– Stockier, bushy plant.
– Higher in CBD but lower in THC
– Couch lock effect with less cerebral high.
– Grown better in dry regions.
Step 2: Prepare the soil
Choose a location in your garden that gets full sun for the entire day. If you have healthy fertile native soil (such as an existing vegetable garden), you can simply dig the following ingredients into the area where you plan to plant and form a mound commonly known as a volcano mound (~30 cm high). Ensure the soil is mixed well and is uniform throughout, then cover the volcano mound with straw and water in with molasses and Neutrog’s Gogo Juice. Let sit for 2 months to decompose and pH stabilise, lightly loosen soil with a pitchfork before planting.
Ingredient
N-P-K
Volume/Weight (100 L total)
Worm castings
1 - 0 - 0
20 L
Chicken manure 1 - 0.5 - 2 20 L
Perlite ------- 30 L
Peat moss ------- 30 L
Blood and bone 9 - 7 - 0 1.5 kg
Guano 0 - 12 - 0 1 kg
Dolomite ------- 0.5 kg
Gypsum ------- 0.5 kg
Kelp meal 1 – 0 – 4 1 kg
If the native soil of your garden is infertile, compacted or lacking organic matter (such as clays), dig a hole 30 cm deep and 60 cm wide (85 L) in the ground where full sun shines the entire day. Add the following ingredients and treat the soil as described above.
Ingredient N-P-K Volume/Weight (150 L total)
Worm castings 1 - 0 - 0 30 L
Chicken manure 1 - 0.5 - 2 30 L
Peat moss ------- 45 L
Perlite ------- 45 L
Blood and Bone 8 - 7 - 0 2 kg
Guano 0 - 11.6 - 0 1.5 kg
Dolomite ------- 0.75 kg
Gypsum ------- 0.75 kg
Kelp meal 1 – 0 – 4 1.5 kg
Step 3: Seedling and Vegetative Growth Phase
This will last anywhere from 6 weeks to 6 months depending on the time of year you begin and the specific strains you are growing. Seeds should be germinated 4-5 days before the new moon of October to take advantage of the entire growing season.
Seedling Phase
Seedling phase will last ~1 week. The seedling soil mix should contain 50% of the prepared soil and 50% seed raising mix. Seeds are soaked overnight in lukewarm water, then sewn into seedling trays at one seed per cell (pointed end downwards) and watered in with aloe vera solution (skin a mature aloe vera leaf, blend gel with water). Seedlings should emerge from soil within 3-7 days. Let seedlings stretch until approximately the length of your index finger, then transplant into 1.5 L pots with the prepared soil mix (bury stem leaving only the two first round green leaves above the soil). Aloe vera solution should be applied at each transplant. Sow double the number of seeds as plants you want to harvest, as half will be males and require removal as soon as possible.
Vegetative Phase
Vigorous growth will occur, the plant seems to grow faster and faster as time continues. Transplant half of the plants in 1.5 L pots into the volcano mounds at week 3-4. Transplant the remaining half of the plants into larger 4.5 L pots, as males emerge in your volcano mounds replace them with the potted females.
Fertiliser
For the first 3 months the plants will not physically show much need for extra nutrients, however a liquid fertiliser fortnightly (root drench and foliar feed) will help develop a strong root system and healthy branching structure. ¼ strength for weeks 1-4, followed by ½ strength for weeks 5-8, and finally full strength from week 9 onwards. If symptoms of yellowing leaves occur, increase liquid feeding plan to weekly rather than fortnightly until yellowing ceases.
Liquid Products N-P-K
Seamax: Fish and Kelp 10 - 2.5 - 2.5
Plant of Health: Triple Boost 10 - 2 - 6
Charlie Carp: All-purpose 10 - 1 - 6
Neutrog: Gogo Juice 1 - 0 - 0 (Probiotic Health Tonic)
Pruning / Topping
Cut the main vertical stem clean off above the 8-10th set of leaves (nodes). The plant will respond by growing its lateral branches and sprouting two new crowns. Once the two new crowns have grown another 2-3 nodes, this can be done again to each. Topping can be carried out every 3-4 weeks until the beginning of the flowering phase. Small and weak ‘sucker’ branches suck the energy away from the plant (typically along the bottom branches) and should be pruned throughout the vegetative phase prior to flowering.
Step 4: Flowering Phase
A beautiful time lasting 8-12 weeks, your plants will begin to stretch and gain extra height and length on each branch to allow space for the buds to come. Bundles of white hairs form at growing tips and characteristic pigments may begin to show. In preparation for a bountiful harvest, your plants will need a dose of nutrients. (DON’T OVER FERTILISE)
Fertiliser
At the first sign of bloom, add the following ingredients to the top of the soil and water in with molasses and Neutrog’s Gogo Juice.
8]Dry Amendments N-P-K
8]Seabird/bat guano 0 - 11.6 - 0
8]Organic potash 0 - 0 - 41
8]Kelp meal 1 - 0 - 4
8]Worm castings 2 - 0 - 0
8]Dolomite ---------
Continue to use full strength vegetative liquid fertiliser for weeks 1-2 of bloom, then use ¼ strength flowering fertiliser for weeks 3-4, followed by ½ strength for weeks 5-6, then full strength from week 7 onwards. Stop using all liquid fertiliser 2 weeks before harvest time to ensure high quality taste in the final product.
8]Liquid Products N-P-K
8]Blackstrap molasses 1 - 0 - 5
8]Searles: Liquid Potash 0 - 4 - 20
8]Green planet: PK SPIKE 0 -14 - 15
My apologies I haven't attached details regarding when to harvest, as well as how to dry and cure. However, one tip: dry trim (trim the majority of the leaves off once dried after hanging, not before hand as commonly practiced, this will help slow the dry process and retain quality). Also, you must understand that each grower has their own techniques they have developed over years, and in some cases generations. This is a small snippet from my techniques, which I don't claim to be the best - but I know work. I urge you to play around with different soil mixes and never stop experimenting, develop your own techniques and master your art. Fellow gardeners, outlaws, and students, may prosperity come to you all. - Cheshire.
How to Cultivate High Quality Outdoor Cannabis (Seed to Flower)
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