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Thread: Been saying it for years, i'm doing a scrog, well i am, finally.

  1. #41

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    Well, what can i say but i am amazed at my ability to flower hermies, pmsl, again high jack x megamouth turned hermie, the other crosses are looking aok, atm, so something is on my leaves, tracking, maybe mites, thrips, but i cannot find anything bug wise under the magnifying glass, so i'll keep tabs on the bastards and just plod on.
    Imnice

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  3. #42

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    spider mites yet again, lol, predators will be ordered asap.
    Imnice

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    Quote Originally Posted by imnice View Post
    spider mites yet again, lol, predators will be ordered asap.
    Imnice
    The predators really do a great job imnice, I use them myself on every grow without fail! (as a preventative)..love to see them marching around the plants guarding my beauties

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  7. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by IceCalibur View Post
    The predators really do a great job imnice, I use them myself on every grow without fail! (as a preventative)..love to see them marching around the plants guarding my beauties
    Yes i agree, i used them about 6 months ago and they were eaten within about 5 days, i'll have to leave it until monday now to order as i dont want them sat in the post office depot dying off over the weekend.
    imnice

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  9. #45

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    What predators is it that you buy? Not got any issues I'm just curious.

    Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty_badger View Post
    What predators is it that you buy? Not got any issues I'm just curious.

    Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
    It all depends Badger, different choices for the different bugs..and even for the different stages of a grow! and this is due to some predators preferring higher humidity and some tolerating lower humidity (same with temps)..

    It also depends on whether you want to prevent or cure..


    So for spider mites specifically (for example) ;


    Amblyseius californicus - They can also tolerate low humidity so a good option for flower period too. Choose sachets for preventative, or select the 'loose' option if you spot any spider mites.

    Amblyseius andersoni - These mites are best for outdoors, can tolerate colder weather but you can use them indoors. This predatory mite feeds on two-spotted mite/ red spider mite (Tetranychus urticaea) and other mites including Russet hemp mite, Broad mite, Cyclamen mite, Carmine mite, Russet mites and European mite. Use as a preventative.

    Phytoseiulus persimilis - A great choice if you've already spotted the buggers, but you need to mix with one of the above (I'd go with a combo with californicus), as these particular mites don't like low humidity too much!

    To put it into perspective, a single Phytoseiulus persimilis mite can eat 5 adults and 20 young spider mite larvae per day, and you get a starting choice of 1000 of them!


    Unfortunately as great as these preds are, if any grower is in late flower and you're seeing webs, then it's already too late ....for best results, I'd recommend using them as a preventative in the early stages of a grow with Amblyseius californicus (about 2-3 sachets per plant), then hit them with a batch of Phytoseiulus persimilis (on top of the Amblyseius californicus) if you actually see any spidermites

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  13. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by IceCalibur View Post
    It all depends Badger, different choices for the different bugs..and even for the different stages of a grow! and this is due to some predators preferring higher humidity and some tolerating lower humidity (same with temps)..

    It also depends on whether you want to prevent or cure..


    So for spider mites specifically (for example) ;


    Amblyseius californicus - They can also tolerate low humidity so a good option for flower period too. Choose sachets for preventative, or select the 'loose' option if you spot any spider mites.

    Amblyseius andersoni - These mites are best for outdoors, can tolerate colder weather but you can use them indoors. This predatory mite feeds on two-spotted mite/ red spider mite (Tetranychus urticaea) and other mites including Russet hemp mite, Broad mite, Cyclamen mite, Carmine mite, Russet mites and European mite. Use as a preventative.

    Phytoseiulus persimilis - A great choice if you've already spotted the buggers, but you need to mix with one of the above (I'd go with a combo with californicus), as these particular mites don't like low humidity too much!

    To put it into perspective, a single Phytoseiulus persimilis mite can eat 5 adults and 20 young spider mite larvae per day, and you get a starting choice of 1000 of them!


    Unfortunately as great as these preds are, if any grower is in late flower and you're seeing webs, then it's already too late ....for best results, I'd recommend using them as a preventative in the early stages of a grow with Amblyseius californicus (about 2-3 sachets per plant), then hit them with a batch of Phytoseiulus persimilis (on top of the Amblyseius californicus) if you actually see any spidermites
    Cheers for the info dude, I don't have an issue but thought I'd try understand more about it..

    Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

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  15. #48

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    Jesus, i will never get to the webbing stage, i just keep tabs on plants checking weekly with magnifying glass, it was last week i spotted leaf tracking and although it took three days of checking before i spotted a spider mite, anyway predators on the way be here tomorrow to eat them dirty little bastard mites, lol.
    imnice

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  17. #49

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    Talking The newbies midway through flowering

    megamouth x power plant, megamouth x charlottes angel and megamouth x high jack.
    others are big bud, key lime pie x cookies and high jack
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  19. #50

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    Novice here im using predator mites has a prevention method but i read that they need a humidity of around 60% to thrive.
    Im on 12/12 so humidity is only 40% for flowering will these mites still be active ,

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