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Thread: can some one just give me the very basics to start a hydro experiment?

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Farmer Geddon View Post
    I've seen fat chunky colas grown in soil. I've also seen some mop bucket grows. Nothing special apart from the novelty and afaik, nobody did a mop bucket grow twice.
    any growing medium im open to... i have read that after veg there is not much difference in a hydro to a soil grow... but how are these people getting this sick sick swell other than using h2o and other methods with the humidity... unless this is the answer just years and years of dialing it in pefectly and actually having proper real conversations with other growers to learn from them.... im seing guys with weed that is just so fat its beyond anything iv seen in my life
    AGAINST the legalization of cannabis.. the business is already set up do you want to work for some big company at minimum wage?

    decriminalization is all we need.ask an American.. Where now they pay thc tax and can't afford enough Meds plus the card ruins most insurance ..no rant this is factual

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  3. #12

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    Cola size is down to genetics and lighting. What we see as a fat cola is actually lots of smaller colas all coming off a main stem. A fat cola can be snipped into lots of smaller colas. That's with only cutting stems, not bud. Plenty of little stems inside a fat cola.

    The better the lighting, the shorter the internodes. Some go cheap on veg lighting which I see as false economy. To use an extreme example, a plant vegged with strip lights is going to have the internodes far apart. I've seen internodes more than 8" apart. It wouldn't matter what light you flowered that plant with, you won't be getting fat colas. Whatever light they will be flowered under, that's what I start them with.

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  5. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Farmer Geddon View Post
    Cola size is down to genetics and lighting. What we see as a fat cola is actually lots of smaller colas all coming off a main stem. A fat cola can be snipped into lots of smaller colas. That's with only cutting stems, not bud. Plenty of little stems inside a fat cola.

    The better the lighting, the shorter the internodes. Some go cheap on veg lighting which I see as false economy. To use an extreme example, a plant vegged with strip lights is going to have the internodes far apart. I've seen internodes more than 8" apart. It wouldn't matter what light you flowered that plant with, you won't be getting fat colas. Whatever light they will be flowered under, that's what I start them with.
    MH for veg and hps for flower for me now, tight nodes and fat swell. Tempted to chuck a bit more blue in the flower stage to try to keep the flowers tighter.

    To op... temps also make a huge factor in tight buds Vs whispy or "loose" as well.

    Sent from my J8210 using Tapatalk

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    Temps.....? Air, water or both?

    Been nodding my head along while reading replies until this one, can you explain a little further or point me towards some more info?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyTime View Post
    Temps.....? Air, water or both?

    Been nodding my head along while reading replies until this one, can you explain a little further or point me towards some more info?
    Ideally you want your lights on temps between 21-27 and off 18-21 (if lights are off) this will be due to your choice of light schedule. For photoperiod it's 18/6 then 12/12 after a few weeks veg to get flowering plants, they'll take anything from 60-100+ days to mature into usable bud

    Throughout the cycle you feed them on a schedule accordingly depending what medium you choose. Soil is most hands off but difficult to determine deficiency or issues and can take weeks to show signs of repair. Hydro is the best for yield. I do a hydro style in Coco so it's kinda like soil but it's hydro.

    You feed daily and make sure there is a little run off after seedling stage. Judge schedule by how light the pot is.

    Choose a training style.

    Research your strain choice and diaries of previous grows of it. This will help prepare you for any likely issues.

    If you go hydro then get yourself a decent EC and pH pen

    Sent from my J8210 using Tapatalk

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    All great information! I've been growing for a bit and have my hydro down fairly well, I'm just rusty!

    I was asking specifically about the affect of temps on bud tightness. I'm just going to take a guess at cooler temps spreading them out a bit? If it were the other way around, mold could help be offset with higher temps and that would make things too easy!

    I've had some mold problems in the past, I grow mostly sativas and have plenty of light in the tent, so keeping them short in stature and tight buds has not been my problem. I've been keeping my lights down in intensity and a bit higher than needed trying to get them to stretch a little more early.....if this could add to the solution it would be great!

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  13. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyTime View Post
    All great information! I've been growing for a bit and have my hydro down fairly well, I'm just rusty!

    I was asking specifically about the affect of temps on bud tightness. I'm just going to take a guess at cooler temps spreading them out a bit? If it were the other way around, mold could help be offset with higher temps and that would make things too easy!

    I've had some mold problems in the past, I grow mostly sativas and have plenty of light in the tent, so keeping them short in stature and tight buds has not been my problem. I've been keeping my lights down in intensity and a bit higher than needed trying to get them to stretch a little more early.....if this could add to the solution it would be great!
    High temps, meaning air temperatures are what give you the big loose buds. Lower temps, although not ideal, don't seem to cause the same problems.



    J

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    Quote Originally Posted by jingo View Post
    High temps, meaning air temperatures are what give you the big loose buds. Lower temps, although not ideal, don't seem to cause the same problems.



    J

    Though there is arguments that proper use of VPD would equate to the same.

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    A 5 plant scrog bedroom grow during an ideal summer gave me ~30% more yield than the same grows done in my unheated cellar. I noticed no difference in bud density.

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