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Thread: DWC Defeciency and Top Up Reservoir Help

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy-T View Post
    Or is base is high enough he doesn't need calmag maybe excess cal

    From behind the bushes
    Interesting that you say that, I was increasing all nutrients and Base by 50-75 PPM per day, and I too have been thinking that it is an over-abundance of calcium in the solution, I use RO water and add Calmag 1st, to 100- 180 PPM (ECx700)
    I have a 30 Litre system and my general rule of thumb is once I've added the total Volume of the solution in Top Ups then it is time for a full flush and refill.
    My Top Up solution has been at 2000PPM and if my whole system drops by 4 Litres I add 1 litre of 2000PPM nutrient solution to the reservoir and let it recirculate, the PPM climbs to about 1000PPM after 10 mins, then I add 3 Litres of water, so 2000PPM at ratio of 3:1 brings to PPM down to about 750+\-
    I have been thinking am I temporarily burning the roots when it climbs and recirculates for 10 minutes.
    I stripped all of the largest fan leaves showing symptoms and obviously it has gone. Haha. Although I can see it starting on new large leaves on the Smaller White Widow Auto. After another 4 days of top ups it is time for another system flush and fresh refil. Is this a calcium over feed or a calcium underfeed. Or is it an issue like mg and fe, k and p.
    Is it an issue exposing the roots to fluctuations temporarily or letting the solution run a little bit longer before topping up, like 24 - 24 hour delay so the system drops to about 18-20Litres.

    Also need peoples opinions on changing to a Light Panel, LED for veg and flower that can light successfully a 2.2 x 2.2 Meter room or replace a 1000watt MH/CMH/HPS. I would like a fairly large light that is a one system unit, such as a combined row of light bars etc...and is high a performance rating, highly reviewed and proven results for both Vegetive and Flower. Im thinking atleast 2000watt but I'm but I'm no sure with LED to CMH PAR comparisons, especially as each light differs, any personal reviews would be greatly appreciated. A good wide range of semi commercial\hobbyist significance
    Thanks guys

    Peace from the Meadows

  2. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to GrowDogg For This Useful Post:

    Blue61 (11-03-21), Easy-T (11-03-21), Farmer Geddon (11-03-21), GEORGE (11-03-21), Mac (11-03-21)

  3. #12

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    I am in Week 5 on White Widow Max Auto (Smaller) (hasn't continued flowering just stretching)
    The 2nd plant is the AK-47 Auto (Larger) in week 6 (week 1-2 flower) (bud sites continue growing and stretching has been crazy)
    Thinking its a deficiency for that reason, both plants have displayed the same problem a couple days after the other, largest first. So a deficiency of Calcium or Magnesium might be the answer. I will try a Epsom salt foliar feed and slight boost in Coco Cal rate, mabey increase the Base Flower A and B nutrients to keep things powering ahead.

    Am I right in assuming that this is in no way a nutrient Over feed or toxicity/leaf burn, this a deficiency my guess.
    Have leaf stripped all the effected leaves will take photo after 3 days to show results and if the spreading has continued to other leaves or not.
    Peace

  4. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to GrowDogg For This Useful Post:

    Blue61 (11-03-21), Easy-T (11-03-21), Farmer Geddon (11-03-21), GEORGE (11-03-21), Mac (11-03-21)

  5. #13

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    I used to change the res when top up volume of tap water equalled res volume. I never flushed though, the new res did that for me. It means that the ec just before a res change is about half of the starting ec. Back then, using label dosage to start with was common and made it less of a problem. Todays preference for starting with low ec could be problematic.

    2 approaches I've read of but haven't done: 1) every week, dump 10% of the res and replace with nutes at starting strength. No more res changes during the grow. 2) Start by topping up with tap water and keep checking pH, When the pH climbs too much, start topping up with nute solution which will bring the pH down a bit. When ec becomes the same as when started, back to tap water again. It uses nutrient strength to control pH.

    What I have tried and works well is to use RO water, auto top up and addback. Mostly done with the lucas formula, idk which other nutes it will work with. Start with full strength lucas formula (no additives or supplements) and measure the ec/ppm on day 1. As it's auto top up with RO, ec will fall. On maintenance days, measure the ec and refer to a cheat sheet to see how much GH Micro and Bloom to addback to the res to bring it back to full strength. I had a huge res which gave stable pH. The weekly maintenance only took 5 minutes.

    If you do use auto top up, you'll need a separate res for that. Connecting a res float valve direct to the RO unit can play havoc with the household plumbing. Sounds like the loudest of motorcycles.

  6. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Farmer Geddon For This Useful Post:

    GEORGE (11-03-21), Mac (13-03-21)

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