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Thread: Is this nutrient burn or a nutrient deficiency?

  1. #11

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    Tie her down and try to create a flat surfice.

    If you feel the stem is 2 thick you can massage it a little by putting it inbetween 2 of you fingers and gently rub om the stem to you feel it soften up.

    Sounds like you did a good job transplanting. You will see it on her pretty quick if she gets stunned. She then lookes saaaaaad. So if your eyes see that she is booming you are all good.

    Remember now that she gets fresh nutes from the soil. You only need to give her calmag for allmost a month. So back up with the nutes or you will burn her. And a 50% strenght calmag is enough


    The red is rope and the green is your top layed down:

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    Good luck

    V8
    Last edited by V8; 16-11-21 at 07:46 AM.
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  3. #12

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    Awesome info, thanks for the help V8.

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  5. #13

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    Update: I was able to bend the top "cola" and I've been slowly leveling all the flower sites. I'll add some netting soon. I've been feeding her lots of nuits and I added molasses as well - she seems happy, tons of flowers.

    Below are four pics of the plant about 10 days since my last post. Can anyone tell me if I should be defoliating this autoflower more than I already do? I usually take 3-5 leaves off per day from the lower part of the plant - it's lollipopped pretty good. Should I start doing more? How many leaves do I really need for this stage of flowering? How long do you think I have to go?

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    Last edited by Triptich; 27-11-21 at 01:57 PM.

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  7. #14

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    She is going to be a big girl i would remove leaves as you do. Remove those that block budsites. Another important thing is airflow. Both over and under the canopy. She is big girl now. She can handle alot of air movement.

    Depend o n the strain and how you would like you trichomes to be. But anything from 7-12 weeks.

    V8

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  9. #15

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    Now that you have repotted to a 5 gallon grow bag with Fox farm Ocean Forest you don't really need to feed anymore.

    You say you're in a hard water area. Next grow check the background hardness of your water. If it is too hard, the only way you'll be able to grow is by constantly repotting your plants. They can get enough minerals from hard water to get a lockout before you can get all the way through to the end of your grow depending upon how hard it is.

    J

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  11. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by V8budding View Post
    She is going to be a big girl i would remove leaves as you do. Remove those that block budsites. Another important thing is airflow. Both over and under the canopy. She is big girl now. She can handle alot of air movement.

    Depend o n the strain and how you would like you trichomes to be. But anything from 7-12 weeks.

    V8
    Anyone have more detail about defoliation?

    If I take leaves that are nearby to bud sites am I making that bud/flower grow slower?

    Also, Ive seen videos of people removing almost all the leaves during flower - whats up with that? At what point do you no longer need leaves?

    Thanks for all the info!

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  13. #17

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    Defoliating is kind of a personal choice. I personally barely take any leaves. Only those blocking light
    from penetrating. I did do quite a few till I got my LED.

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  15. #18

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    I tend to remove big fan leaves blocking bud sites, I do that whether I'm growing photos or autos. The only difference with autos is the timing, sometimes I'll purposely defoliate to slow an auto down. Other times I will wait until the stretch is over before I defoliate.

    I think any fan leave that originates at the node of a flower should be left on as long as possible because it, I believe, drives the energy for that particular flower.

    I also tend to remove tiny skinny little branches that originate on the lower branches of the plant and grow all the way up to the top of the plant. Those never produce well and you thin those out and it's a lot better as far as mold and airflow and stuff.

    J


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  17. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jingo View Post
    I tend to remove big fan leaves blocking bud sites, I do that whether I'm growing photos or autos. The only difference with autos is the timing, sometimes I'll purposely defoliate to slow an auto down. Other times I will wait until the stretch is over before I defoliate.

    I think any fan leave that originates at the node of a flower should be left on as long as possible because it, I believe, drives the energy for that particular flower.

    I also tend to remove tiny skinny little branches that originate on the lower branches of the plant and grow all the way up to the top of the plant. Those never produce well and you thin those out and it's a lot better as far as mold and airflow and stuff.

    J

    Have you ever heard the notion that defoliating a branch that's growing taller than the rest will slow that particular branch down during the stretch? In practice, it's difficult to get a definitive answer but in theory it makes sense.

    Cheers Jingo,
    B


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  19. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by barney_b View Post
    Have you ever heard the notion that defoliating a branch that's growing taller than the rest will slow that particular branch down during the stretch? In practice, it's difficult to get a definitive answer but in theory it makes sense.

    Cheers Jingo,
    B
    I've used defoliation quite a bit to slow down autos. If I want to slow a branch down though or some branches down I'll just soften them up and get them real limp. They recover quick and you have to keep working them and then in the end they get much bigger flowers cuz the size of the branch gets so much larger from all the softening and bending.

    J


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