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Thread: Nitrogen (N) Mobile Element and Macro Element

  1. #1

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    May 2007
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    Arrow Nitrogen (N) Mobile Element and Macro Element

    Benefit: Nitrogen plays a very big role in your plants; this one element is directly responsible for production of chlorophyll, photosynthesis, Amino Acids, which are the building block of Proteins. The myriad of enzymes which help the plants growth in leaves stems and the how well the vigor of your plants is.

    Nitrogen is the biggest mobile element meaning it can travel anywhere on the plant.
    Usually the def will start on the lower to middle part of the plant, and then will usually happen to older leaves first. Then the deficiency will work its way up the plant. Your plant can be green on top, then yellowing on the lower leaves when the deficiency is starting out. Yield will be greatly reduced without good amounts of nitrogen in your plants. Sometimes in bad cases the leaves will turn a purplish color along with the yellowing.

    Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium get confused. The best way to tell them apart is, nitrogen deficiency starts around the tips and works its way to the back of the leaves, where a magnesium deficiency will cover the entire outer part of the leave and make the entire leaves yellow leaving the veins to stay green. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it’s a nitrogen deficiency.
    Towards the end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. Reason to this is, because the plant is using all its stored nutrients in the leaves and dropping the leaves it doesn’t need anymore due to them being the oldest leaves.
    So don’t freak out when your plant starts to yellow a bit in late stages of flowering .
    Parts affected by a nitrogen deficiency are: Older foliage, going to whole plant, Petioles (rare) cases.

    Now for having too much nitrogen in your growing mediums or soil. The plant will have like an overall DARK green look and have delayed maturity. Due to Nitrogen being involved in vegetative growth, to much nitrogen will result in tall plants with weak stems. New growth will be very lively and plant transpiration will be high, but not always. Nitrogen toxicity can be seen when there are very very dry conditions almost as if there was a drought, which may show a burning effect. If you give your plants ammonium based nutrients they may show NH4+ toxicity, which will show a smaller plant growth and lesions that occur on stems and roots, leaf margins that will roll downward. Also the big fan leaves will have “the claw” look. The tips will point down but the leaves will stay up as if when you bend your fingers downwards. Leaves can be twisted when growing… mainly new growths. Roots will be under developed along with the slowing of flowering. Yields will be decreased, because to much nitrogen in early stages of flowering slows down bud growth. Water uptake is slowing down from the vascular breakdown of the plants as well. Too much potassium and nitrogen will lock out calcium as well.

    Problems with Nitrogen being locked out by PH troubles.
    Waterlogged soil and Soil with low organic matter.

    Nitrogen is a very important element in the plant, all of them are but some are more important than others. For soil the best ph to have is 6.8. Why? Because at 6.8, that’s the best number for ALL available nutrients to be absorbed into the plant without any of them being locked out. For hydro and soil less mediums best ph to have is around 5.8.
    Try not to keep your plants to cold, because the cold temps will cause the nitrogen harder for the plant to be absorbed.

    PH levels for Nitrogen:

    Soil levels
    Nitrogen gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0- 5.5.
    Nitrogen is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-8.0. ( wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) best range to have nitrogen is a ph of 6-7. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.

    Hydro and Soil less Mediums
    Nitrogen gets locked out of Hydro, Soil less mediums at the levels of 4.5-5.0.
    Nitrogen has the best absorption rate at a ph of 5.5 to 8.0
    (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range to have Nitrogen is: 5.0-7.0. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.

    Solution to fixing a Nitrogen deficiency

    Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
    A goof solid N-P-K ratio will fix any nitrogen deficiency. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Nitrogen in them will fix a nitrogen deficiency., Peters all purpose plant food 20-20-20 is good, Miracle grow All purpose plant food, Miracle grow Tomato plant food, (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) as well and blood meal! If you need to give your plants a quick solution to nitrogen and you want to use blood meal, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Other sources of nitrogen are dried blood, Cotton seed meal which is slow acting, Insect eating bat guano which is fast acting. Bone meal which is a gradual absorption when not made into a tea.( also excellent source of phosphorus). Fish Meal Or Fish Emulsion is a good source of nitrogen and is medium acting. Worm castings, which is gradual absorption. Seabird guano, All purpose Millennia Seabird guano, Orginal Seabird guano All Purpose, Crabshell ,which is slow absorption. Fox Farm Grow Big, which is fast acting. ( can bring down your ph as well)
    Here are a list of things that help fix a Nitrogen Deficiency:

    Chemical Nutrients

    Advanced nutrients Grow (2-1-6)
    Vita Grow (4-0-0),
    BC Grow(1.2-3.2-6.5)
    GH Flora Grow (2-1-6)
    GH Maxi grow (10-5-14)
    GH floraNova grow (7-4-10),
    Dyna gro Grow (7-9-5)

    Organic Nutrients

    Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Grow (3-1-3)
    Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Grow (1.5-.75-1.5)
    Earthjuice Grow (2-1-1),
    Pure Blend Pro (3-1.5-4)
    Bone Meal(0-10-0)
    Blood Meal(12-0-0)
    Fish Emulsion (5-1-1)
    Seabird Guano (11-13-3)
    Crab Shells(2.5-3.0-.5)
    Pure Blend Grow (0.4-.01-.5)
    Marine Cuisine (10-7-7)
    MaxiCrop Seaweed (1-0-3)
    Super Tea (5-5-1)
    Mexican Bat Guano (10-2-0)
    Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
    Kelp Meal (1-0-2)
    Seaweed Plus Iron
    Neptune's Harvest (2-4-0.5)
    Alaska Start-Up(2-1-2)
    Bio-Grow (1.8-0.1-6.6)
    Age old Grow (12-6-6)
    AGE Old Kelp (.30-.25-.15)
    Neptune's Harvest (2-4-1)
    Maxicrop Seweed(.1-0-1)
    METANATURALS Organic grow (3-3-3)
    METANATURALS Organic nitrogen (16-0-0)

    So adding anyone of these above should fix up your nitrogen deficiency! Nitrogen deficient plants usually recover in about a week, affected leaves will not recover.

    Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it.

    Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss, Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.

    Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.

    Nitrogen deficiency:

  2. #2

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    Phosphorous is used for plant energy by being assimilated into molecules called Adenosine-tri-phosphate, or ATP. This molecule is necessary for any plant activity that requires energy such as root growth, flowering, respiration, and vegetative growth.

    Phosphorous deficiencies are distinct. Purple stems, leaf stems, leaf veins and stunted growth are a sure sign of a Phosphorous deficiency. Leaves will also tend to be smaller and dark green, and may or may not include necrotic patches. Bud size will be smaller and underdeveloped, as will the root mass.

    A good all-around fertilizer like Peter's 20-20-20 will clear this up.

    Potassium serves to aid in the process of photosynthesis, nutrient uptake, respiration, and is a key to sturdy stems and disease resistance. Having an adequate supply for the plant early in it?s life stage will keep your seedlings from falling over.

    Potassium deficiencies are identified by necrosis on the margins of larger fan leaves. Necrotic patches can be seen on the leaves as well. Leaves will eventually turn yellow, brown and die off. Most of the plants that show signs of a Potassium deficiency are going to be the tallest and best looking plants you have.

    Again, feeding with a good all-around fertilizer will clear it up as well.

    You can also use wood ashes and water them into your soil to fix this. You'll need to replace your soil's holding capacity of Potassium, and have a surplus before it will become available to the roots again.

    Minor Nutrients

    Chances of seeing anything but an Iron deficiency are slim, but when pushing the envelope with HID?s and CO2 enrichment, they will pop up from time to time. Most are seen, if ever, in outdoor grows.

    Chlorophyll has the same structure as Hemoglobin, except that it has a magnesium atom in place of the Iron atom. Chlorophyll is how plants make sugars to feed the process of building ATP through the Krebs cycle.

    A magnesium deficient plant is identified by intervenial chlorosis, necrosis, and eventually a lockout of plant nutrients. The problems starts at the bottom of the plants and works it?s way up.

    These images depict different stages and signs of a magnesium deficiency. The first picture is a Mg deficient plant in flower, and the second two are of the leaves to show what I mean by Intervenial Chlorosis.

    Treating with an Epsom salts mix will clear this right up.

  3. #3

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    Sulphur is an important element in the structures of amino acids and proteins, and is needed for normal plant respiration and metabolism of sugars and other compounds.

    If you ever see this in your plants, then you can be assured that you have this deficiency. Look for yellowing starting from the top, and progressing down, including the veins of the leaves. Treat the same as a Mg deficiency.

    Calcium is an important co-enzyme in the production of fatty acids, cell membranes, and is necessary for normal mitosis/cell division. A Ca deficiency will stunt plant growth. Acidic soils may increase the risk of a Ca def.

  4. #4

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    Jan 2013
    Land Of The Lost
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    thanks for sharing man

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to The budda For This Useful Post:

    Chilprufe (17-06-14)

  6. #5

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    Perfect for people learning to look at when in need.

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Vetran For This Useful Post:

    Chilprufe (17-06-14)

  8. #6

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    Feb 2013
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    Yep, my girls are starting to ask me for some nitrogen, I've ignored them for a few days now but if I continue to ignore them they'll start screaming at me. The good thing about growing under LED's is any deficiency with show itself much quicker than growing under HPS or otherwise. Going to give them pure ammonium nitrate (at a very diluted rate, of course) because they have everything else they need. Here it comes ladies.

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to budstud For This Useful Post:

    Chilprufe (17-06-14)

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