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Thread: The Sweet Zone: Pruning & Topping Indoor Plants For Larger Yields

  1. #41

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    That is very helpful info although i much prefer LST (low stress training) as the plat does not suffer as bad as toping or pinching in my opinion.

    Well here we go, LST (Low Stress Training) the ultimate way to maximize your yield.

    Before we begin lets get some knowledge on what you will be looking at.

    Light Brown : Pot Outline
    Green thick Lines : Main Stem
    Small Thin Lines with Green Balls on top : Fan leafs
    Yellow Lines : Side Branches
    Red : Tiedown Metal Hooks (or thread whichever item you use, i use Hooks its easier)

    The Text in the box : First digit is Step No. and Second Digit is Pot Size, below the numbers is the type of view your looking at (either from the SIDE or from the TOP)


    Now that thats out of the way lets get it on..

    Please note, you dont have to do it this way, its just the idea of how to do LST, this is the way i did it and you can see the end result of 4 weeks of growth this way in my signature picture where it says FIM/LST. Some may opt to use the eggcrate method where you utilize an eggcrate around the pot and tie it down to that with zipties instead of using string or hooks running from the pot itself... this way you can cover more square footage and maximize your yield even more.

    Ok heres the STEPS PICTURE for you to follow along with.



    STEP 1 : Grow your plant from Seed or Clone to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.

    STEP 2 : Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.

    STEP 3 : This is really not a step, just waiting time... Take note of how the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day. Under my 1000 Watt Metal Halide light it does it in under 3 hours.

    STEP 4 : Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set. You will notice Side branching has started already because good light is getting to the main stem areas next to each fanleaf stem intersection with the main stem.

    STEP 5 : Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot. In this illustration to save time and drawings, i started out with a small pot and it reached the end of the pot after the first tiedown. I repotted it into a 10 inch pot which will be my final pot size for this plant in order for me to continue the LST Bends around the inside edge of the pot.

    STEP 6 : Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely.

    STEP 7 : Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.

    STEP 8 : Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant ) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook.... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.

    STEP 9 : After you have used up all possible space inside the pot (or your eggcrate) its time to just let it flower.. This is a side view of how it will and should look by that time with all the side branches growing upwards towards the light.... these will all become Collas unlike a non LST plant will only have one colla.

    During flowering and even before due to lack of light on the main stem fan leafs which is all the way to the bottom almost against the soil those fanleafs will die off anyways, i usually cut these off the main stem right after the branch has grown out in that area, keeps things neat down below where you will need good airflow during flowering.. so go ahead and take off any fanleafs coming off the main stem that is going around the inside edge of the pot.

    Set your timer to 12/12 and watch it bloom

    There is no Step 10 in the picture but we all know what that is HARVEST!!!

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to TRAVTECH For This Useful Post:

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  3. #42

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    nice posts, fellas!

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  5. #43

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    Great post yoko, thank you, I have a problem! Mine are 19 days into flower and haven't trimmed at all,mine does look like a tree! Also buds are well developed. Please could you advise as to best option as I don't want to stress the wee girl top much... At least I know for next time.

    I am doing to critical and by chance I knows the top off my other by accident while changing the water farm over.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1319640540.554346.jpg 
Views:	162 
Size:	28.5 KB 
ID:	78264Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1319640556.769811.jpg 
Views:	204 
Size:	26.7 KB 
ID:	78265

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  7. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by TRAVTECH View Post
    That is very helpful info although i much prefer LST (low stress training) as the plat does not suffer as bad as toping or pinching in my opinion.

    Well here we go, LST (Low Stress Training) the ultimate way to maximize your yield.

    Before we begin lets get some knowledge on what you will be looking at.

    Light Brown : Pot Outline
    Green thick Lines : Main Stem
    Small Thin Lines with Green Balls on top : Fan leafs
    Yellow Lines : Side Branches
    Red : Tiedown Metal Hooks (or thread whichever item you use, i use Hooks its easier)

    The Text in the box : First digit is Step No. and Second Digit is Pot Size, below the numbers is the type of view your looking at (either from the SIDE or from the TOP)


    Now that thats out of the way lets get it on..

    Please note, you dont have to do it this way, its just the idea of how to do LST, this is the way i did it and you can see the end result of 4 weeks of growth this way in my signature picture where it says FIM/LST. Some may opt to use the eggcrate method where you utilize an eggcrate around the pot and tie it down to that with zipties instead of using string or hooks running from the pot itself... this way you can cover more square footage and maximize your yield even more.

    Ok heres the STEPS PICTURE for you to follow along with.



    STEP 1 : Grow your plant from Seed or Clone to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.

    STEP 2 : Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.

    STEP 3 : This is really not a step, just waiting time... Take note of how the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day. Under my 1000 Watt Metal Halide light it does it in under 3 hours.

    STEP 4 : Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set. You will notice Side branching has started already because good light is getting to the main stem areas next to each fanleaf stem intersection with the main stem.

    STEP 5 : Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot. In this illustration to save time and drawings, i started out with a small pot and it reached the end of the pot after the first tiedown. I repotted it into a 10 inch pot which will be my final pot size for this plant in order for me to continue the LST Bends around the inside edge of the pot.

    STEP 6 : Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely.

    STEP 7 : Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.

    STEP 8 : Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant ) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook.... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.

    STEP 9 : After you have used up all possible space inside the pot (or your eggcrate) its time to just let it flower.. This is a side view of how it will and should look by that time with all the side branches growing upwards towards the light.... these will all become Collas unlike a non LST plant will only have one colla.

    During flowering and even before due to lack of light on the main stem fan leafs which is all the way to the bottom almost against the soil those fanleafs will die off anyways, i usually cut these off the main stem right after the branch has grown out in that area, keeps things neat down below where you will need good airflow during flowering.. so go ahead and take off any fanleafs coming off the main stem that is going around the inside edge of the pot.

    Set your timer to 12/12 and watch it bloom

    There is no Step 10 in the picture but we all know what that is HARVEST!!!
    Thanks for the info, do you have any pictures at all please?

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  9. #45

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    Very helpful I am on my first attempt at a grow and I have been debating over and over on wether to top , super crop, prune, lollipop, lst, scrog or just leave to nature and this site has been awesome at helping me make these decisions. As you guys would say Cheers!

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    GEORGE (27-10-19), yoko2009 (01-12-11)

  11. #46

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    Good read will definitely keep this in when my next set go in am a bit too late into flower on my current set.

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  13. #47

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    Great Pruing guide
    Thanks

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    GEORGE (27-10-19)

  15. #48

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    nice post thanks v much

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  17. #49

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    Awesome post, very helpful!

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  19. #50

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    very helpful guide thank you

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