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Thread: Spider Mites

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    Default Spider Mites

    This is a helpfull piece i found when i found when i had spidermites none of this is my work.

    Spider Mites

    Young spider mites, adults, and eggs are visible in this photo.

    Spider mites cause stippling, small spots, on the top of leaves.


    Identify:

    The spider mite is the most common pest found on indoor plants and cause the most problems. Spider mites have eight legs and are classified as spiders rather than insects, which have six legs. Find microscopic spider mites on leaf undersides sucking away life-giving fluids. To an untrained naked eye, they are hard to spot. Spider mites appear as tiny specks on leaf undersides; however, their telltale signs of feeding – yellowish-white spots, stippling – on the tops of leaves are easy to see. Careful inspection reveals tiny spider webs – easily seen when misted with water – on stems and under leaves as infestations progress. A magnifying glass or low-power microscope (10-30X) helps to identify the yellow-white, two spotted brown or red mites and their translucent eggs. Indoors, the most common is the two-spotted spider mite. After a single mating, females are fertilized for life and reproduce about 75 percent female and 25 percent male eggs. Females lay about 100 eggs.


    Damage:

    Mites suck life-giving sap from plants, causing overall vigor loss and stunting. Leaves are pocked with suck-hole marks and yellow from failure to produce chlorophyll. They lose partial to full function, and leaves turn yellow and drop. Once a plant is overrun with spider mites, the infestation progresses rapidly. Severe cases cause plant death.


    Control:

    Cleanliness! This is the most important first step to spider mite control. Keep the grow room and tools spotless and disinfected. Mother plants often have spider mites. Spray mothers regularly with miticides, including once three days before taking cuttings. Once mite infestations get out of control and miticides work poorly, the entire grow room will have to be cleaned out and disinfected with a pesticide and 5 percent bleach solution. Steam disinfection is also possible but too difficult in most situations.


    Cultural and physical:

    Spider mites thrive in a dry, 70-80 degrees F climate, and reproduce every five days in temperatures above 80 degrees. Create a hostile environment by lowering the temperature to 60 degrees and spray foliage, especially under leaves, with a jet of cold water. Spraying literally blasts them off the leaves as well as increases humidity. Their reproductive cycle will be slowed, and you will have a chance to kill them before they do much damage. Manual removal works for small populations. Smash all mites in sight between the thumb and index finger, or wash leaves individually in between two sponges. Make sure to not infect other plants with contaminated hands or sponges.

    Remove leaves with 50 percent or more damage.
    Remove leaves with more than 50 percent damage and throw away, making sure insects and eggs do not reenter the garden. If mites have attacked only one or two plants, isolate the infected plants and treat them separately. Take care when removing foliage not to spread mites to other plants. Severely damaged plants should be carefully removed from the garden and destroyed.
    Smear a layer of Tanglefoot™ around the lips of containers and at the base of stems to create barriers spider mites cannot cross. This will help isolate them to specific plants. Note: smear a layer of Tanglefoot™ at each end of drying lines when hanging buds to contain spider mites. Once foliage is dead, mites try to migrate down drying lines to find live foliage with fresh, flowing sap.


    Biological:

    Neoseiulus (Amblyseius) californicus and Mesoseiulus (phytoseiulus) longipes, are the two most common and effective predators. Phytoseiulus persimilis, Neoseiulus (Amblyseius) fallacius, Galendromus (Metaseiulus) occidentalis, Galendromus (Typhlodromus) pyri predators are also available commercially.


    Humidity – 60-70 percent

    Temperature – 60-70 degrees
    When properly applied and reared, predatory spider mites work very well. There are many things to consider when using the predators. First, predators can eat only a limited number of mites a day; the average predator can eat 20 eggs or 5 adults daily. As soon as the predators’ source of food is gone, some mites die of starvation while others survive on other insects or pollen. Check with suppliers for release instructions of specific species. A general dosage of 20 predators per plant is a good place to start. Predatory mites have a difficult time traveling from plant to plant, so setting them out on each plant is necessary. Temperature and humidity levels are important to control so predators thrive. Both must be at the proper level to give the predators the best possible chance. When spider mites have infested a garden, the predatory mites cannot eat them fast enough to solve the problem. Predatory mites work best when there are only a few spider mites. Introduce predators as soon as spider mites are seen on vegetative growth, and release them every month thereafter. This gives predators a chance to keep up with mites. Before releasing predators, rinse all plants thoroughly to ensure all toxic-spray residues from insecticides and fungicides are gone.
    The fungus, Hirsutella thompsonii, trade name Mycar®, kills spider mites.
    Sprays: Homemade sprays often lack the strength to kill infestations but work as a deterrent by repelling mites. Popular homemade sprays include Dr. Bonner’s Soap, garlic, hot pepper, citrus oil, and liquid seaweed combinations. If these sprays do not deter spider mites after 4-5 applications, switch to a stronger spray: neem oil, pyrethrum, horticultural oil, or nicotine sulfate, cinnamaldehyde.
    Insecticidal soap does a fair job of controlling mites. Usually two or three applications at 5-10 day intervals will do the trick.
    Horticultural oil smothers eggs and can be mixed with pyrethrum and homemade sprays to improve extermination.
    Pyrethrum (aerosol) is the best natural miticide! Apply 2-3 applications at 5-10 day intervals. Pyrethrum is the best control for spider mite extermination. Spider mites should be gone after 2 or 3 applications at 5-10 day intervals, providing sanitary- preventative conditions are maintained. Eggs hatch in 5-10 days. The second spraying will kill the newly hatched eggs and the remaining adults. The third and subsequent applications will kill any new spider mites, but mites soon develop a resistance to synthetic pyrethrum.
    Neem oil works great!
    Heavy-duty chemical miticides are available but are not recommended on plants that will be consumed by humans. If using any chemical miticide, be sure it is a contact poison and not systemic. Use StirrupM®, described below, to improve the spider mite kill rate. Cinnamaldehyde extracted from Cinnamonum zeylanicum kills mites. The synthetic hormone – sold under the brand name StirrupM® – attracts spider mites, and is used very successfully to enhance miticides.


    Progressive Control Measures for Spider Mites

    CleanlinessClean room daily, disinfect tools, do not introduce new pests into the garden on clothes, no animal visits, etc.Create hostile environmentHumidity, temperature, water sprayCreate barriersSmear Tanglefoot™ around pot lips, stems, drying linesDip cuttings and vegetative plantsDip small plants in pyrethrum, horticultural oil, neem oilRemove damaged foliageRemove foliage more than 50 percent damagedIntroduce Predatory mitesRelease predators before infestations grow out of handSprayApply pyrethrum, neem oil, use stronger miticides only if necessary. Rotate sprays so mites do not develop immunity
    Last edited by up2nogood; 05-07-11 at 06:05 PM.

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  3. #2

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    If you're growing organically or you're too far into flowering to use sprays then you can try what I did when I got an infestation two weeks before harvest.

    phytoseiulus persimilis or Amblyseius sp. (spidermite preditors).

    To quote the site I got mine from "will control red spider mite, two-spotted spider mite, fruit-tree red spider mite and russet mites; in fact, this voracious predator will even dine on thrips."

    They did a pretty good job and if I'd ordered them as soon as I spotted the first signs I think they would have completely cleared the tent within three weeks.

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    Grow4personal (11-03-13), mrsaw87 (13-09-13), theo14 (05-07-11)

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    nice thread,

    i got cuttings that had spider mites,

    i jus stuck a load of ladybirds in my tent on my plants and they have eaten them all...

    safe

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    Grow4personal (11-03-13), Reppinuk (14-07-11), scottishlass29 (08-03-15), theo14 (05-07-11), tokersupreme (04-03-13)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Bimble View Post
    If you're growing organically or you're too far into flowering to use sprays then you can try what I did when I got an infestation two weeks before harvest.

    phytoseiulus persimilis or Amblyseius sp. (spidermite preditors).

    To quote the site I got mine from "will control red spider mite, two-spotted spider mite, fruit-tree red spider mite and russet mites; in fact, this voracious predator will even dine on thrips."

    They did a pretty good job and if I'd ordered them as soon as I spotted the first signs I think they would have completely cleared the tent within three weeks.
    yeah they sound pretty good and not too expensive either wish iid know about them, heres some more info and some pics.



    Using Spider Mite Killer Sachets
    There are two versions of Spider mite killer sachets both contain the predator; Amblyseius sp. This tiny predator feeds on spider mite eggs, nymphs and adults. It will also feed on other mites and thrip larvae. These predators can be applied to plants much earlier than the traditional predator; Phytoseiulus persimilis. This is because it can survive in conditions of lower temperatures and humidity. It also feeds on a variety of food sources.
    The indoor sachets are smaller in size but contain the same amount of predators as the larger outdoor sachets. The sachets release predators for up to two weeks.
    The Spider mite killer outdoor sachet is waterproof enabling it to be used on outdoor plants such as strawberries and raspberries. Both sachet products have a small hole punched in them that releases the predators over 1-14 days.
    Hang the indoor sachets on plants like cucumbers, aubergines, tomatoes or ornamental plants.
    For the outdoor sachets hang them over a plant stem on soft fruit or ornamentals. Distribute the sachets evenly amongst plants, for large plants with spider mite ensure that at least one sachet per plant is applied.
    Each sachet contains approx 250 predators. For large infestations of spider mite in the summer months it is recommended to also use spider mite killer predators in bottles.





    Using Spider Mite Killer Predators
    Apply Spidermite Killer predators (Phytoseiulus persimilis) only when spider mites are present on plants. Rotate the bottle gently before dispensing the predators onto infected plants.
    Try to apply to infested leaves and growing points of plants, as spidermites migrate towards growing points. Misting plants before application also improves the environment for predators and helps stick the carrier material to leaves.
    Apply the predators as soon as possible after receipt. If this is not possible they can be stored in a fridge for 1-2 days. The temperature in the greenhouse or indoor growing area should be above 20.c for the predators to be active. At these temperatures the predator will breed twice as fast as the spider mite and eats the whole life cycle from egg to adult!
    More than one application maybe required if there are high infestations of spider mites on plants

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    Another organic option is : Organic Savona Fatty Acid Concentrate Spray....

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    The only mite cure I reccomend for an infestation is made by this company its unbeatable and so r theyre thrip and botrytis cure !
    Last edited by up2nogood; 04-10-11 at 11:25 PM. Reason: no spam please

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Bimble View Post
    If you're growing organically or you're too far into flowering to use sprays then you can try what I did when I got an infestation two weeks before harvest.

    phytoseiulus persimilis or Amblyseius sp. (spidermite preditors).

    To quote the site I got mine from "will control red spider mite, two-spotted spider mite, fruit-tree red spider mite and russet mites; in fact, this voracious predator will even dine on thrips."

    They did a pretty good job and if I'd ordered them as soon as I spotted the first signs I think they would have completely cleared the tent within three weeks.
    where did u order from bro??

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    Quote Originally Posted by laurigreenfingers81 View Post
    The only mite cure I reccomend for an infestation is made by this company , its unbeatable and so r theyre thrip and botrytis cure !
    Don't do that, it's antisocial!
    Last edited by up2nogood; 04-10-11 at 11:28 PM.

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    Here are a few pics that I've taken. These were red mites and not the typical 2 spotted mites you usually see pics on. I've currently got them on a house plant. I wouldn't have notice them if it weren't for the webbing. The pics have been taken with a USB microscope under various magnification 60-200x:











    This one is trying to crawl off a packet of Zig-Zag papers:

    'there was a young man named jobby,
    who haboured an illicit hobby,
    with renknowned growing fame,
    he put our plants to shame,
    that bright young man named jobby'

  14. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by theo14 View Post
    yeah they sound pretty good and not too expensive either wish iid know about them, heres some more info and some pics.



    Using Spider Mite Killer Sachets
    There are two versions of Spider mite killer sachets both contain the predator; Amblyseius sp. This tiny predator feeds on spider mite eggs, nymphs and adults. It will also feed on other mites and thrip larvae. These predators can be applied to plants much earlier than the traditional predator; Phytoseiulus persimilis. This is because it can survive in conditions of lower temperatures and humidity. It also feeds on a variety of food sources.
    The indoor sachets are smaller in size but contain the same amount of predators as the larger outdoor sachets. The sachets release predators for up to two weeks.
    The Spider mite killer outdoor sachet is waterproof enabling it to be used on outdoor plants such as strawberries and raspberries. Both sachet products have a small hole punched in them that releases the predators over 1-14 days.
    Hang the indoor sachets on plants like cucumbers, aubergines, tomatoes or ornamental plants.
    For the outdoor sachets hang them over a plant stem on soft fruit or ornamentals. Distribute the sachets evenly amongst plants, for large plants with spider mite ensure that at least one sachet per plant is applied.
    Each sachet contains approx 250 predators. For large infestations of spider mite in the summer months it is recommended to also use spider mite killer predators in bottles.





    Using Spider Mite Killer Predators
    Apply Spidermite Killer predators (Phytoseiulus persimilis) only when spider mites are present on plants. Rotate the bottle gently before dispensing the predators onto infected plants.
    Try to apply to infested leaves and growing points of plants, as spidermites migrate towards growing points. Misting plants before application also improves the environment for predators and helps stick the carrier material to leaves.
    Apply the predators as soon as possible after receipt. If this is not possible they can be stored in a fridge for 1-2 days. The temperature in the greenhouse or indoor growing area should be above 20.c for the predators to be active. At these temperatures the predator will breed twice as fast as the spider mite and eats the whole life cycle from egg to adult!
    More than one application maybe required if there are high infestations of spider mites on plants
    these (do) work I've had em b4 and always put a couple of sachets in evry grow now and top em up evry 4week and tuch wood it's working well for me,

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