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Thread: PH info and problem solving.

  1. #21

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    forgot...to know if that lime needs more or is fine just run water like the flush and watch the ph rise each time. if it wont hold up there then its use is depleted and can add some at the rate given...ive yet to ever add lime to any grow ive done ever and has been fine...if i backed of the food that caused the ph drop in the first place. if not of course it will drop again

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  3. #22

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    i dont agree with this...thats not what the ph scale means to let it swing from one end to other to allow all food. it can and has caused something called ph imballance..to much up n down basicaly. look at each ph number as a part of our human diet. say nitro is 6.8 and is meat..6.5 is veggies. and so on., most us know a correct diet is all foods in the needed amounts of each. so to have low ph monday and eating all veggies and not much meat isnt a proper way to eat a BALLANCED diet. so now after days the ph rises as we all see in hydro..as food is taken it will rise..as its diluted to the amount of water taken up. ..so hi ph now is letting lots of ,meat/nitro in and also is blocking the potassium and phos now. so it compounds the issue. do not drift ph...as little as we can. it does its own natural dri8ft we have no control over. when we try to adjust that we make it worse.
    you want an even ballance of all foods at the right amount at all times. that is only done with a steady ph...how much it effects the plants life...who knows, but it deffinatly isnt feeding as it wants to with what it wants to. if you let the ph go hi and it wants phos that day then it cant and your causing harm..may be slight or may be major depending on how far off or what its needs are
    and food for soil or hydro can be used in either. only diff is a hard water food or coco. others can be made same and work well. some make claims its different for sales

    pH adjustment

    ****Do not adjust pH of water or feed solutions for soil or compost.****

    When growing in hydroponics with lots of light we must be sure that the nutrients in the solution are readily available for absorption by the roots. This means keeping the pH of the nutrient solution between a range of about 5.5 to 6.5. In re-circulating hydroponic systems, make all new solutions between this range. The pH will generally rise over the next few days but avoid adjusting the pH every day even if it goes slightly out of range. Adding too much acid (pH down) is much worse for your plant than being slightly out of the optimum pH range.

    If you are using a lot of acid to reduce your pH, but your water is not quite hard enough for hard water feeds, you may want to consider using Nitric Acid as a pH Down in vegetative growth. This affects the solution less than phosphoric acid although more is needed. Alternatively try changing feed next crop to a universal feed, which will help keep your solution pH down and buffered.

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  5. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by C.W. View Post
    ...Wall almost as big as mine
    Mate, awesome response, thank you very much. You've pretty much covered every single point I asked so I'm very thankful and shall use this info.

    For one thing, since day one I've left my water out for at least 24 hours in a wide open container to allow most chlorine to evaporate off or so I thought, from today, I'm just gonna start drawing it off in advance, but straight into bottles as basically like you say, its just for temps. That will help at home and gain me a cupboard in my kitchen that I currently use to store said water.

    Yeah same here, I get that some people don't care and thats as they just haven't needed to, the luck of the quality of their water. My old property used to be fine really, as soon as I moved here I got issues and for so long I've put it down to everything but the true cause, all because in my old place I was fine and so I was simply ignorant, those days are gone and hopefully so are my issues

    Thanks once again, very helpful response that answers everything I was clueless about this morning.

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  7. #24

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    i also rarely need to check it or do run off tests anymore. ive got to know my water and food and what dose takes me to roughly what ph...at times is how i decide what dose to feed so no ph needed.
    i did alot fo reading on filtering water and cardons when i was shopping for mine. i run a hydro logic small boy filter. not an R/O waste of time those are. huge water waste hard on environment and most dont need them. my water here is cleaned now by uv light. no chemicals used so its nice n clean. low ph..tap is about 7 and filtered about 6.6. ive upgraded to a diff carbon to catch chloramines if i ever had any where i may live...each city here is different. kdf85 is the only carbon that will catch chloramines. so the reg R/O dont do it even though they say it does.
    we have a huge system installed in the shop for making the foods so i had a good chance to talk to an unbiased dood on water and filtering. i think the one in the shop had 6 membranes.
    anyways this is where i got my water and carbon info from. even kdf carbon wont get all of it but will remove enough to not kill bennies in the water or medium.

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  9. #25

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    Not a lot I can add to C.W.'s posts other than welcome to the "Club pH" Up_In_Smoke. Nice to see a few people are waking up to those who don't have perfect water all the time. As you yourself have noticed it's fine if your water is somewhere near to what you want it so you don't have to adjust. Just don't shoot down those who have crap water and do need to pH. I would love to see those who don't pH use my water for a whole grow and see how they get on with it. I don't care how much they say their soil buffers their pH mine won't buffer 7.8 back down to nearer 6.5 and certainly not for the whole grow lasting 3+ months. I can get away with it in veg but come flower and the plants go downhill rather quick unless I pH on every watering.
    'there was a young man named jobby,
    who haboured an illicit hobby,
    with renknowned growing fame,
    he put our plants to shame,
    that bright young man named jobby'

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  11. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by jobby2812 View Post
    Not a lot I can add to C.W.'s posts other than welcome to the "Club pH" Up_In_Smoke. Nice to see a few people are waking up to those who don't have perfect water all the time. As you yourself have noticed it's fine if your water is somewhere near to what you want it so you don't have to adjust. Just don't shoot down those who have crap water and do need to pH. I would love to see those who don't pH use my water for a whole grow and see how they get on with it. I don't care how much they say their soil buffers their pH mine won't buffer 7.8 back down to nearer 6.5 and certainly not for the whole grow lasting 3+ months. I can get away with it in veg but come flower and the plants go downhill rather quick unless I pH on every watering.
    Mate, our water sources sound very similar.
    I can get away with veg too, no troubles, I put that down to it not being too long since potted up so the soil is still fully active sort of thing, by week 3 of flower when everything is yellow, they've been in the mud for 6 weeks or so and so any pH sort of scale that brought to the table is long gone, that and the fact the plant wants different nutes at that time.

    I haven't seen any results yet as I literally found out my own pH yesterday so its gonna be a good while before I notice the real effects, but its just in time as I've JUST put some plants into flower so perfect timing for testing.

    I agree, those that have the luck of good water, fair play and if it works for you, stick with it, but if you get any issues, look to this. But always bear in mind, I used to act just like this, thinking I hadn't had any major issues, but thinking back, I've had issues with every grow I've ever done, they just haven't always been that bad, but looking at them, they can all be put down to this. So now, the proof is in the pudding so they say, I've had my last 3 or 4 diaries ruined by yellowing come flowering, I have a diary of my current plants (not currently upto date) going at the mo, hopefully that can show going forward that this pH lark has been the reason all along.

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  13. #27

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    I had a group of people telling ME.. not everyone.. but speciically ME that I should drop the water adjustment for the time being having seen what my starting ph was and taking into consideration my past grow without adjusted water, but MOST importantly the human aspect (ie me freaking out and chanign too much at once).. and THEN a group of ph'ers took it personally and thought that the people telling me not to ph were talking to every other grower, too. But they were just telling me not to ph for now. That theme has happened to several other members, too.

    This all seems to be getting lost in translation when I think we can all agree on one iimmutable fact..

    That fact is that SOME people do need to ph.. and some don't!!

    Just like some people need to water more often than others.

    Also like some need to add epsoms and some don't.

    Again.. like some have to use root hormones for clones and some don''t.



    So why the fuck are we taking this personally and arguing about it still? And even now that we've all realised that it's horses for courses for each individual we're still talking about the original mistranslation?



    Ok.. I'm going to start a poll on whether or not it's essential to use clonex, and I bet that by the end of it the votes will show that some do and some don't.

    I am the light of this forum and I am its mean twisted soul.

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  15. #28

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    pH / EC Meters & pH Control

    The pH is the most important factor for water culture gardeners to monitor because the pH of a nutrient solution reads the outcome of an electrical battle that is fought between the roots and everything surrounding them. When growing in pots, the run-off is the place to measure the pH level.

    Why should the pH be monitored? The protein and enzyme molecules in a plant are structured in very specific shapes in order to catalyze a chemical reaction to build the plant cells. To do so, they need reactant molecules to fit precisely into their gaps like keys to locks; this means that all the negative and positive charges have to line up exactly. In fact, plants often change their own cellular pH to stop or speed up a certain enzyme reaction.

    Three main things which change the pH that the plant feels are:

    The pH of the water you start with
    The growing medium (e.g. Rockwool is over pH 7.0, peat moss is - below pH 6.0, hardened expanded clay is pH 7.59)
    The nutrient, since it can be mixed to form many combinations of elements that behave in different ways and which give up their elements to the plant at different pH levels. It is only after going through these three stages that a nutrient solution is able to readily give the plant the elements it favours.


    EC in hydroponics

    Nutrient solutions are generally made up by following label dose rates. However, label dose rates usually fail to take into consideration issues that could cause the nutrient solution’s concentration to be either too high, or too low. This is where an EC meter can be a useful dosing tool:

    Setting the target EC: When making nutrient solutions, EC meters are useful for setting the target EC. The EC requirement depends on factors such as the stage of plant growth and the type of medium. Burning of roots or foliage can occur if the EC is too high. If the EC is too low, deficiency symptoms can occur.

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  17. #29

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    i see alot have issues about 4 to 5 week mark in bloom. lots of ph dropping and foods building...they require alot of food to grow and shape and make branches just as we do growing up as kids..teens and so on. once we get older we dont need as much foods or we get fat. our body changes hormones and so on...just as the plant does. and its about that flowering time that it happens. big change in hormone ballance when we flip the light. lots of fast growth...needing lots of food and mainly nitrogen. then that 12/12 stretch slows and stops a couple weeks in. thats when the larger food needs begin to slow to...begin..not stop. this is all a slow process. so over the next week or 2 the needs slow and change what the needs are more to phos and potassium side. it needs the heavier nitro to do its veg and beginning then it wont need as much. so its about then when i see the ph go out. and is usualy cause that food slowed and stoped its uptakes and began to build over that later couple weeks till it went so far the ph was down low and plants went for a shit..,..about 2 to 3 weeks in slow down a biut of foods. and drop ph a couple points to allow more phos and potassium and this also blocks the flow or availability of the nitro as well.

    once you get a better understanding on the needs and so on you can keep these things green from top to bottom right till YOU want them to yellow up.

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  19. #30

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    nice info baza

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