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Thread: PH info and problem solving.

  1. #61

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    not disputing your info...when i see guys get that early yellowing its usualy 9/10 times down to food and ph not right. most feeds on bottles and other places or all the info we read on how to grow and use stuff is related to full grow lights. not cfl or tiny little bulbs. so the food needs and so on are way different.

    there is no cure for ealry yellow once its starts. just to try and slow the rest of the plant from following to soon behind. its now triggered other end of life hormones. and is what also causes the leaves to fall off on their own. its a plants way of trying to save itself.

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  3. #62

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    Not wanting to take sides on this one, but Anonymiss, perhaps your info is a little swayed. Like for example, I was going along with that idea at first and I was one of those who had tried a few different things and so it was starting to look like it couldn't be much else.

    But, all that time I had been using crappy ph testing gear and wrote it off as ok as many do, now I've tested it and found its miles out and the theory for the issue is causing is well documented whereas this blue light issue is not.

    I'm just saying, it could be swayed by subjectivity and things like overlooking the ph or not considering it at all on the grows you've noticed.

    And then there is the fact that when C.W. first arrived here and pH started becoming the hot topic, he was getting told left right and centre he didn't have a clue, but now people are starting to listen AND see evidence from the improvements they're making. So perhaps it was just perception and looking like the bulb when all along, half this site have probably not been taking their ph and medium very seriously.

    Not saying its definately one way or another, just trying to take a step back lately and have an alternate outlook on things and divide science from speculation, theories and rumour.
    Last edited by Up_in_smoke; 24-01-12 at 05:01 PM.

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  5. #63

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    the info annonomiss posted is fact stuff. i just dont think it has the ffect some think it has. lots of grow info is that way. especialy with fungi and microbials. yes they work as the research says, what they dont say is that research was done in an agri environment not horti. outdoor in dead crop fields. we dont have dead soils. we dont grow in it long enough to get the bennefit they say it does. yes it helps and does work but not as the science says it does....all our foods are like that. if it isnt needed it isnt doing a dam thing

    blue and red loight will effect stomatal opening and closing so it does have an effect to this topic. but for the yellow result i think there is more to it. ive run from little 23 watt cfl right to full on wharehouse sized grows. and it can be avoided with right food ph and ec care

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  7. #64

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    Quote Originally Posted by C.W. View Post
    the info annonomiss posted is fact stuff.
    Sorry, I didn't mean it like that.
    What I meant more was well documented with regards to cannabis rather than all plants.
    I did write that a bit craply, speaking of writing craply, craply isn't a word is it, lol. Talk about ironic

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  9. #65

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    no dood..i get your point and agree. i agree with her info to, just what it causes maybe not so much.
    i did have some say i was so wrong on ph info then after pages of arguing i find out he dont even own a pen...so like you said untill they remove all factors they will always be assumes or guessers. sometimes right sometimes...most times not. and that isnt meant as offence to anyone...just general statement

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  11. #66

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    how bout another topic related...

    id like to hear what some here think a buffered nutrient means. we all see the adds claiming this nute is ph buffered. many think that means we dont need to ph it. does it on its own.

    so to you guys what does this term mean...ph buffered nutrients in a new bottle of foods

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  13. #67

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    I reckon good old Scottish water quality has helped me a lot but I'm changing medium to coco later this year so I've just been to evilbay and ordered a pen I'll have a play in my current grow and see what's going on just for fun and I promise to be honest and admit if the ph is off. I'm very curious now lol

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  15. #68

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    ph your coco to about 5.8 to 6...with everything you put in it..water and foods. and use cal suplements. good luck

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  17. #69

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    I've never really heard of this blue light syndrome thingy in flower. I always knew the plants prefered blue light for veg and red light for flower. I knew adding some blue along with the red whilst flowering was better for the plants but not nessicary. Same again with veg that you can get away with just using red but blue is better.

    With the above said I'm not 100% sure it is down to the light. The picture below was of a Dinafem Cheese I did back last year. Same make of soil and same light as my Cali Indica. The only thing I did do different was to keep on top of the pH of my water. Again no nutrient feeds and only what was in the Levingtons soil. Seems that it doesn't matter what I do if I miss pH'ing even 1 watering then things go wrong. Think this has been my most healthiest looking plant since, well I dunno since I started growing?



    'there was a young man named jobby,
    who haboured an illicit hobby,
    with renknowned growing fame,
    he put our plants to shame,
    that bright young man named jobby'

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  19. #70

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    While we're fresh on the subject... what is everyone's view on adding Dolomite lime direct to soil, acting as a source of cal & mag, and acting as a ph "stabilizer"

    And, people that do use it with success, how much do you add?
    ....and, when to add? ....assuming nothing needs to be added to pre mix grow soils (such a Plagron & Biobizz) for at least the first few weeks intill the rest of the nutrients have be used up, so wont adding it to fresh soil give too much mag & cal?

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